I am thinking of trying my hand at blue cats from shore. Anyone have any suggestions for places to try once they move into the shallower waters?
I've seen some recommendations on baited bottom rigs with floats/rattles. Anything else? I used to catch freshwater cats pretty well with a worm...
Spiderco sharpmaker is pretty easy to use but perhaps a little pricey. The Lansky styles are also good and easy to use. It is also possible to make one yourself pretty easily.
Sharpening by hand on flat stones followed by some light stropping is the best method. I understand some people cannot...
Agree with both of you. On the handle, if the wood feels porous and dry, try light coats of BLO, probably thinned. You could also just wax it. Most recommend Mother's Carnauba car wax which is easy to find in any auto parts store. It looks in decent condition, so no major surgery.
Inside 50 yards, my cz 455 in .22 lr is a drt machine. I just use cci sv rounds, 40 gr lead round nose. High neck, ear hole, spine, straight to the face, broad side boiler room. Only one had enough gumption to scurry under the shed. He fooled me by acting drt and when I put the rifle away and...
These work well for scrubbing rust or patina. They are pretty gentle with just water and seem to leave the underlying surface polish unmarred. Abrasives can leave J-hook scratch patterns or swirls. You can re-etch in strong instant coffee solution. Do short etches followed by gentle polish to...
This one is likely staying with me.
AEB-L at 62 RC. 0.08" stock ground down to a laser fine edge.
4" blade and 8" OAL.
Bloodwood handle with 416 stainless steel bolsters and pins.
I do. You can grind (some) before HT. There are a number of guidelines for order of operations. Most stainless is ground after HT. If you grind before, you have to leave enough meat on there to clean off any decarb or surface oxides.
I only do this as a hobby, but I get most of my info from...
Here is an example next to a work in progress blade. These both just happen to be sitting on my desk right now. You can see the blank as it returned from heat treat with the RC rating, color codes, and if you look close there are at least 2 small dents near the front 2 pin holes where the tool...
Custom makers have grown far more sophisticated in the last few decades. Most use controlled ovens and specifically rated oils or cooling blocks and follow very specific recipes. They also meticulously check their work, and if they mess up, they go back as far as necessary to fix the mistake...
You can go full custom and get exactly what you want. Stainless, large, edge retention, good shock resistance (not as good as carbon steel). You can get pretty much whatever you want out of it, including aesthetics.
I wouldn't go too far down the rabbit hole of which steel is best. By far more...
Saw one in Wicomico Co just 2 weeks ago. Standing in water, 150 yds from the house, crooked neck, head down, tongue out, confused and showing ribs. It was a nice 7 or 8 pt in felt. Got away before I could end its suffering...
Thin kitchen knives are the best! 0.063 in (1/16 in) is great for meats and veggies. I have heard of some going down to 0.04 in on paring knives and love them. Geometry makes a huge difference in cutting feel/effort and thin always wins. Thick stuff is only needed where its necessary like...
Great looking knife. Don't be scared to try stock removal, it is a good next step before trying to forge. You can outsource heat treatment and it requires much less tooling and space. It opens up your options and imagination.
Very cool to see other makers around. Here is my recent project, just...
Hope yall enjoy them! I like to think that each one I make gets better in some way. I do it for fun, but it's great to share my fun with someone that appreciates the product.
I would think a SBR or PCC is probably easiest to shoot. Low recoil, point shoot friendly, higher mag capacity than a revolver. If they are concerned about appearance of the tool, they made the wrong decision to buy anything, imo.