Win 97 Stock

[Bigsawer]

I need to repair this stock. To pull old oil out, would you soak the entire end in acetone? I'm fine with refinishing afterwards. For the cracks, I understand acra-glass is good but is anything more locally available suitable? A little hardware will be embedded and filled with the epoxy.

 

[Doco Overboard]

You could just irrigate it with acetone using a small needle. From the outside to the through bolt hole so it runs out onto a shop towel.
You dont have to soak the whole end.

Also, I would make a wood bow-tie patch for each side and not use the screws.
That way you could just face them off with a file to match the recoil surface of the tenon.
The reason I wouldn't use the screws is, if anyone has to do a future repair they're not stuck with a 10x32 machine screw and nut to deal with and you dont need all that going on there in the first place.

Use acra glass gel becuase it's mixed 50/50 when you use it and black dye.
Scrape any that oozes out off with a razor blade and you'll never see the crack from the exterior.
And if your careful, you'll not have to refinish anything.

Scotch tape right over the crack exterior and slice it with a exacto knife. That way you protect the stock exterior and only have to scrape what emerges from the crack. Rub some oil on the exterior when your done and have a couple of clamps to squeeze the wrist back together tightly.

You need something that will flow and squeeze up tight and epoxy is not the best thing for that.
By drilling a hole right down through the crack as deep as it runs with the stock bolt, use a dowel to push the gel all the way to the end of the crack so it squeezes out the end. Like a pump, set your Dutchman onto an inletted mortise. You need to let the air escape at the end of it even if it goes to the hole bored for the stock bolt.

 

[pre64hunter]

yes acetone, suck it up with cotton balls. As Doco said, don't use those screws, drill a hole from the end into the crack so it will be hidden, 1/8 - 1/4" diameter and push a wooden dowel into the hole forcing the epoxy to ooze out. Use the blue tape so it doesn't peel the finish off.
Something like that crack, I push a loose fitting dowel or whittle a piece of wood and do the glueing part, wipe it off clean, then wrap saran wrap or plastic wrap around it, the make it tighter with several wraps on electric tape, clamping it tighter and tighter. The next morning unwrap it and cut or scrape what epoxy oozed out flush. The blue tape will leave the seam a little high.
Put a dowel in the stock bolt hole to keep the glue from running into it. Coat the dowel with wax, car wax, furniture polish, shoe polish, add a wrap or two of tape on the dowel to get it to fit fairly close and to be able to remove it.

 

[Doco Overboard]

Acra gel, black dye is what the op needs.
A 26" bicycle tire sliced into bands will wrap it all to heck too. Or some cramps and blocks of wood.
Scrape what oozes out right down to the wood....Carefully.
Because the surface is curved, and with a little effort and patience, you'll never hit the wood next to it but for a scad.
If you dont press the glass with your finger and smear, it will flick/skive right off.
If it helps, spread the crack open with some wooden toothpicks to make clearance for the gel.
It looks like, in the picture maybe there's another crack developing at about 7:00, if it is its real small.
You could also just glass a square piece of wood in the recoil surface and re-drill the hole for the stock bolt.
Once everything sets up nice and tight that would be real strong. And that would force the glass into the bottom of the crack. Just with a little mess, extra clean up etc.