Ok, I put the trigger scale on the M44 last night. 5 lbs. I pulled it 5 times. CMP regulations call for no less than 4.5lbs. I definitely do not want a lighter trigger pull, I just want to take up the slack and clean up the break if possible.
I'm sure we have some Bullseye and NRA High Power shooters who still have their own weight sets.Just remember a trigger inspection used at a match during rifle quals is actually a weight.
Not a scale.
Your rifle will simply need to lift it from the ground or the floor of the trailer.
No one around here is likely to even use one.
Roger that. I'm not sweating CMP matches per se, I'm just using the CMP rule as a guide for the minimum safe trigger weight.Just remember a trigger inspection used at a match during rifle quals is actually a weight.
Not a scale.
Dont worry about your scores. Worry about getting some in the black a little more each time standing and you'll feel better about challenging yourself and your accomplishments and knowing your rifle. Use the invisible ammo dry firing off the range in your living room.Slow prone was surprisingly good. Fast prone was less good and offhand was just terrible. All the shots were on the paper but too many outside of the scoring rings in the offhand. I had a 10 and an X in the slow prone phase.
Are you using a sling?Roger that. I'm not sweating CMP matches per se, I'm just using the CMP rule as a guide for the minimum safe trigger weight.
I used the M44 in a match at AAFG today. 185 out of 300. Not good but not unexpected. I do feel that the sights are finally correct. The main problem is the idiot behind the trigger. I also used 3 types of ammo during the match (dumb, yes.) I used Russian for my sighters and then Igman for slow and fast prone and then Czech silver tip for unsupported standing. The other guys made some jokes about how the guy to my right is very tan on his left side and kind of deaf now.
Slow prone was surprisingly good. Fast prone was less good and offhand was just terrible. All the shots were on the paper but too many outside of the scoring rings in the offhand. I had a 10 and an X in the slow prone phase.
Tonight, I installed the spring washer under the sear and coil spring as the trigger return spring. This made the trigger feel much better than I expected. It's almost like a normal single stage. The pull still indicates 5lbs on the Wheeler scale.
I had installed an accurizing kit of shims and cloth a couple of years ago. Tonight I performed the dollar bill check and it failed in places so the barrel is touching wood, causing harmonics. I added another wrap of cloth and two shims. Now a dollar bill passes freely along the length of the barrel.
I do think the sights are finally right and I think that Igman is what the rifle wants. I'll do another bench test and see where we're at.
I tried that. It makes it worse. Shoots way high, doesn't seem to affect windage much.You will discover that your newly acquired M44 will shoot more accurately with the bayonet extended.
You may be mis understanding the problem you are having. The symptoms that you are experiencing are usually due to a coating of lacquer that is applied to some Combloc ammunition. If you combine it with a rough chamber, it makes it hard to open the bolt.I tried that. It makes it worse. Shoots way high, doesn't seem to affect windage much.
I could zero in the rifle for steel cased ammo. Push the front sight more to the left and adjust the post but then it would be shooting high and right with brass cased ammo. If these adjustments could be done quickly and without tools, I wouldn't care but since it's a hassle, I'm just going to stick with ammo that I've proven, works.
Also, the Czech silver tip surplus cycles terribly. The cases deform after firing, making bolt operation difficult. New Russian steel ammo cycles reliably, at least.
I can't "see" a deformity, I just suspect that something in the shape has changed because after firing, the bolt is very difficult to cycle. If you load this Czech ammo and then cycle the bolt without firing to eject the unfired bullet, the bolt cycles smoothly.Can you explain the deformities that you are seeing?
If it is the Czech stuff with the dark green or gray cases, they seem to have more lacquer than others. I would chuck a .45 brush in a drill and run it in an out of the chamber a few times and then clean with acetone. That will take any build up out of the chamber.I can't "see" a deformity, I just suspect that something in the shape has changed because after firing, the bolt is very difficult to cycle. If you load this Czech ammo and then cycle the bolt without firing to eject the unfired bullet, the bolt cycles smoothly.
All other ammo cycles perfectly, even the Russian steel cased that is also lacquered.
Maybe the shape isn't changing but the cases are almost getting stuck? I do have a stuck case extractor for the Mosin for those rare cases. In any case, the Czech stuff shoots high and left and has pretty wide groups. I don't have a whole lot of it so I'm not concerned about making the rifle accept it.
I do have an account there. I haven't looked at it in awhile. Thanks for the reminder.This website will be very helpful to you. Me and hundreds of others posted all sorts of MN information in it over the years.
No worries - that was a hole in my Russian collection, you just prodded me along a little..lolLol, sorry about that. These rifles are powerful and ammo is half the cost of .30-06. The trick is getting them on target.