Taking the barrel off a Pedersoli Kentucky flintlock rifle

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  • toppkatt

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 22, 2017
    1,293
    Just got this new rifle and want to strip it and 'deep clean' to make sure I get everything working as it should. Also, I want to finish 'finishing the stock. The stock as it came looks like it might have had 1 maybe 2 coats of finish. When I took it out it looked more like a brown plastic stock with all the pores and openings in the wood than a finished wood stock. (I'm not knocking the quality of Pedersoli, they are making production guns not custom and they have time and price point constraints). I just want to make sure the stock won't shrink or warp more than necessary due to unfinished wood grain exposed to humidity changes when out and about. well and make it look nicer like a custom gun :-) . I might even glass bed it. It looks like there are pins holding the barrel into the stock and a wood screw on the tang at the breech?
    If anyone can find an exploded view of this rifle that would be great, I looked and found nothing.
    Thanks
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    BANNED!!!
    Sounds like it's pinned with a traditional tang screw just like you identified.
    Often it's advantageous to loosen or remove the lock plate when dismantling because if the screws are real tight it can trap the barrel in between the stock and the barrel a touch.
    The screw through the tang also more than likely secures the trigger plate. I'm not sure without seeing the rifle if the trigger bow is pinned to the stock as well.
    Rifles that are pinned require a certain amount of finesse when dismantling/reassembling because of the nature of the construction.
    Correctly fitting drifts and a way to hold the rifle securely will be a big help to not damage the "ways" for the pins.
     

    Clovis

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Aug 1, 2011
    1,455
    Centreville
    Don't know if yours is like mine, but my Pedersoli has screws through the ramrod thimbles holding the barrel on. Might want to remove the rod and check.
     

    toppkatt

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 22, 2017
    1,293
    Yeah, I pulled the rod out to look and saw no evidence of screws on the thimbles. It looks like they are pinned too (probably faster and less expensive to pin than use screws). Thanks for the info. Never had a flintlock before so I want to be careful. The stocks on them (Kentucky/Pennsylvania rifles) are very thin in places and don't want to crack or break the wood!
    Looked in the 'Owners Manual' Kinda worthless. No exploded views and contains info for many different rifles at have no useful info to this rifle :-(
    What happened to owners manuals that at least had exploded views of the product? I get better instructions from an IKEA product... :tinfoil:
     

    BFMIN

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 5, 2010
    3,076
    Eastern shore
    From a couple of images of a dismantled one I found (attached) the thimbles seem to not have anything to do with the barrel.
    There is a "hook" fitting at the breech end (maybe with screw attaching to the trigger plate?) & the muzzle seems held in place by a nose-cap.
    I'm guessing remove the nose cap & any breech extension screws & tilt up at the muzzle to "unhook"?


     

    toppkatt

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 22, 2017
    1,293
    From a couple of images of a dismantled one I found (attached) the thimbles seem to not have anything to do with the barrel.
    There is a "hook" fitting at the breech end (maybe with screw attaching to the trigger plate?) & the muzzle seems held in place by a nose-cap.
    I'm guessing remove the nose cap & any breech extension screws & tilt up at the muzzle to "unhook"?


    Thanks for those (more than I could find). Yes, the thimbles seem to be attached by their own pins (separate from the barrel). I think I want to get all the furniture off so I can finish the stock (put on more coats of oil (and maybe use some dark walnut stain before I rub the oil on). The patch box is also VERY stiff. I'd like to get it to open without a screwdriver or other type of lever. Maybe even take the breech plug out and put teflon tape or anti-seize on it (also (having breech plug out) make it easier to slug the bore :-) .
     

    iH8DemLibz

    When All Else Fails.
    Apr 1, 2013
    27,141
    Libtardistan
    Leave the breech plug alone. No need to slug the bore. There's nothing precise about a patched round ball. Just shoot it.

    Slap some oil on the patch box hinge and open and close it a zillion times. It will smooth out.
     

    Clovis

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Aug 1, 2011
    1,455
    Centreville
    Don't know if yours is like mine, but my Pedersoli has screws through the ramrod thimbles holding the barrel on. Might want to remove the rod and check.
    Sorry, meant to say mine was a Frontier model not a Kentucky. Hope I didn't send anyone down the wrong path.
     

    iH8DemLibz

    When All Else Fails.
    Apr 1, 2013
    27,141
    Libtardistan
    Found a pretty good YT on the subject. You should probably watch this before proceeding.

    (I don't think this is a Pedersoli, but...)


    Those old .45 Jukar Kentuckyish rifles are real shooters. I have several. Traditions too. But in .50


    OP.

    Those 1:66 or so twist PRB barrels shoot better without a lot of powder stuffed into them. 1 grain per caliber to start. Then bump it five grains at a time until accuracy falls off.

    And make sure to use REAL black powder is she's a flinter. Both in the bore and the pan. Real black powder ignites much faster than fake black powder.
     
    Last edited:

    iH8DemLibz

    When All Else Fails.
    Apr 1, 2013
    27,141
    Libtardistan
    The OP would be better served by keeping those ramrod pipes in place. The fewer tight fitting pins being driven out the better.

    Lots of idiot marks appear when steel punches get around softer wood. All stock refinishing can take place with the pipes in place.
     

    toppkatt

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 22, 2017
    1,293
    Those old .45 Jukar Kentuckyish rifles are real shooters. I have several. Traditions too. But in .50


    OP.

    Those 1:66 or so twist PRB barrels shoot better without a lot of powder stuffed into them. 1 grain per caliber to start. Then bump it five grains at a time until accuracy falls off.

    And make sure to use REAL black powder is she's a flinter. Both in the bore and the pan. Real black powder ignites much faster than fake black powder.
    I only use Swiss. The Pedersoli Kentucky rifle in .32 caliber is, I believe (from web site), 1:48. I was thinking of starting with 30 Gr.
     

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