Suppressor host pistol?

[John from MD]

S&W M&P 22 Compact. Superb.
View attachment 409849

I'll second this. With my mask and CCI SV, it is quieter than my suppressed PCP air rifles in the garage. I have a 24 inch tree stump I use for just playing around with .22 suppressed guns. I find that, with the MASK, SV is just as good as suppressed ammo and usually is more accurate.

 

[John from MD]

I've had my can "freeze" onto my barrel (rifle and pistol) nearly every time I've shot it. Which requires me using a plastic jawed wrench near the nubbies of the can at the muzzle.

I assume you never experience this with your can? How do you make sure the can is snug with it being so far under the hand guard? And how would you get it off if it did freeze up?

I use copper anti seize on my .22 muzzles and put the suppressor on hand tight. I have never had one come loose and the can has never locked up.

The only can that I own that actually gets tighter is my Griffin Paladin 300 using a Griffin tapered mount. You can put it on hand tight and run it full auto and you need the wrench to take it off. That's probably a good thing.

 

[alucard0822]

I've had my can "freeze" onto my barrel (rifle and pistol) nearly every time I've shot it. Which requires me using a plastic jawed wrench near the nubbies of the can at the muzzle.

I assume you never experience this with your can? How do you make sure the can is snug with it being so far under the hand guard? And how would you get it off if it did freeze up?

There is enough out front to make sure it's tight. I snug it, shoot, and can usually take a can off by the muzzle. If it sticks, I keep a hex key in the grip and can take the handguard off by backing off 2 bolts and slip it off over the can, then take the can off. I even bonded rubber pads inside the handguard to avoid scratching the can when installing it from the front or slipping the handguard off over a mounted can

 

[mtlcafan79]

I've had my can "freeze" onto my barrel (rifle and pistol) nearly every time I've shot it. Which requires me using a plastic jawed wrench near the nubbies of the can at the muzzle.

I assume you never experience this with your can? How do you make sure the can is snug with it being so far under the hand guard? And how would you get it off if it did freeze up?

I bought a 1/2x28 tap and die set from Brownells after having 22 cans do the same thing. They help a ton in cleaning all the crud that inevitably gets in the threads on both the can and host. Everything threads together now like new every time.

 

[TwinTurbskis]

+1 for the M&P 22 compact. I run one with a silencerco sparrow and haven't had a single issue.

 

[parttimer]

I have the Dead Air Mask and M&P 22 compact. I am very happy with my set up.
The factory sights are still 100% usable with this combo and it is very reliable.

 

[Sundazes]

I use copper anti seize on my .22 muzzles and put the suppressor on hand tight. I have never had one come loose and the can has never locked up.

The only can that I own that actually gets tighter is my Griffin Paladin 300 using a Griffin tapered mount. You can put it on hand tight and run it full auto and you need the wrench to take it off. That's probably a good thing.

I use the silver anti seize on threads on cans. Works great, but lord have mercy, that stuff can get everywhere. You only need a little dab on the top of the thread.

 

[Sundazes]

I bought a 1/2x28 tap and die set from Brownells after having 22 cans do the same thing. They help a ton in cleaning all the crud that inevitably gets in the threads on both the can and host. Everything threads together now like new every time.

Never thought of that. Good idea, but be VERY careful doing this.

 

[4g64loser]

Instead of tap/die, look at thread repair tools. They are designed not to cut.

 

[alucard0822]

Never thought of that. Good idea, but be VERY careful doing this.

yea, no way I would use a hardened steel tap to clean threads in something important. They are designed to cut threads, and can wear the existing threads or instantly damage them. A softer "thread chaser" is safer, and will clean the threads without cutting metal. Personally, I just use a 50cal brush in a drill to clean mount threads with 0 chance of damage. soft steel, brass, or nylon, have to make sure the brush is softer than whatever you are cleaning, soft steel brush for steel parts, brass for steel or titanium, nylon for aluminum or finished parts