Stuck bullet extraction

[linkstate]

Do not use a wooden dowel to push the bullet. It will likely split and wedge the bullet even more. Shoot some Kroil down the bore and let it soak in. Then, I would take a brass jag, remove the point from it, and try to push the bullet back through the chamber. Use a carbon or aluminum bore rod and be careful not to mung up the crown.

Do you have a camera feed into my house? I've done exactly that on a .22 rifle with a dowel rod trying to knock loose a jammed up snap-cap. That sucker was really wedged in there. So I then had a stuck snap-cap and a couple broken pieces of dowel rod to deal with.

I've since read that using a hardwood dowel like oak or even hickory which is commonly used for ramrods, if you cut them into shorter pieces, there is less of a chance to snap a section like on a longer piece that has run-out.

But better solutions mentioned including yours I think for something especially so small.

 

[Jerry M]

+1 on freezing the barrel

 

[HappyCamper]

Maybe I missed it if it was menitoned, but do you know the composition of the bullet? Not familiar with .17 HMR projectiles. Can it be dissolvoved or at least dissolved enough to loosen it? That worked for a similar effort years ago for me, but it wasn't .17 HMR

 

[Welder84]

A close fitting rod supported by the entire length of rifling will have less tendency to flex and transmit more energy to the end of the rod. Steel is best because it will resist kinking/mushrooming and becoming a larger diameter unexpectedly.
IE you think the bullet is moving but the rod is actually becoming shorter due to being driven.
A square rod is even better because it touches less of the rifling and is more rigid to resist deformation.
Pistol bullets are easier to push out becuase of less pressure upsetting the base of the bullet. Thats why wood brass or a solid aluminum squib rod works on them easier.
I should also mention a clean polished rod. Not some rusty sucker outside of the bin from home depot or from behind the air compressor or something.
The other thing is securely holding the barreled action in a suitable fixture so it doesn't move for a real bad stuck one. If its moving when a blow is given that means a higher frequency of strikes and more opportunity for error.
I'm also of the camp that a bigger hammer for anything when necessary instead of a small one and a whole bunch of whacks.
Ive done this a few times before but never on a 17. Thats sort of tiny. Hopefully it knocks right out, some times they move easier than expected.

Thanks for the information!