Steyr Clips...Who Knew?

[tsmith1499]

I ordered 5 clips last night and am waiting for J&G to tell me my C&R is okay to order one of those Steyr's. Your as bad an influence as yellowsled!!

 

[yellowsled]

I ordered 5 clips last night and am waiting for J&G to tell me my C&R is okay to order one of those Steyr's. Your as bad an influence as yellowsled!!

Everyone is doing it. What's the problem?

 

[Half-cocked]

I can now endorse the above. Shot it the other day. Here's a reasonable simulation of the event:

LOL, yep - it's that good.

 

[amoebicmagician]

Sweet!

"The bolt is hard to cycle", LOL... the Austrians/Hungarians weren't the watchmaker-class gun machinists that the Swiss were.... these are NOT K31's. You don't so much "open/close" the bolt as you do "yank/slam" the bolt.

BTW, you managed to remove your bolt... word of caution, the bolt head has a tendency to SNAP closed, at which point it has to be pulled back out, where it SHOULD lock into place, allowing you to slide it into the channel in the action. Sometimes, the little b***rds refuse to stay locked into the extended position, and getting the bolt back in can be a nightmare.

I had one that absolutely refused to lock into place, so I disassembled the whole bolt, and bent the extractor/tensioning spring *ever so lightly* so that it locked into its' dentent, allowing the bolt head to remain open, so it could be inserted.

Taking the bolt apart and reassembling is a little tricky, since it's possible to put it back together with the bolt head upside down, and you have to have the safety in the right position when reassembling. I recommend doing it anyway, since you should clean any cosmoline residue out of there, and it's a great way to learn about how the mechanism works.

For lube, a thin coat of synthetic motor oil seems to work well for me, and gives the smoothest action getting that bolt open/closed.

He's right. A coating of ballistol on the camming surfaces helps A LOT, and will condition the metal if left on there.

After the gun gets warm enough for the pores to open, the ballistol gets soaked in even better, and it really helps smooth out the bolt travel due to the newly added lubricity as well as dissolving some of the cosmoline that ballistol works so well on.

Ballistol conditions metal a lot like PTFE, so that it feels silky and slick even when it's all wiped away. Conditioning warm metal makes it nearly impossible to remove that lubricity short of warming it again and using brakleen or other powerful degreaser.

 

[Josh Smith]

I've been thinking a lot about one of these critters. Looks like a pretty handy carbine.

If I want the magazine full and the chamber empty, would I have to use a piece of empty brass or does the clip insert far enough to allow for the bolt to ride over the first round?

Thanks,

Josh