slug the barrel

[Archeryrob]

So I casted 311 bullets in pure lead and went at slugging my guns.

Marlin 336 it was tightest at the muzzle and slide smoothly 1/2 through to the chamber. Got a .308 measurement.

Remi 30.06 I started the bullet in the muzzle and noticed it didn't move as easily. The rubber mallet started deforming the base more than the 30-30. It got in the muzzle went in about an inch or so and stopped. Now the 1/4" wood dowels are breaking instead of moving the bullet.

So I am looking for options on the 30.06. I was considering putting a gas check on the top or bottom end and tap on the metal rod and tapping it back out the muzzle. This DID NOT go as I expected.

 

[KRC]

Use a steel rod of the largest diameter possible while leaving room for electrical tape or wiring shrink wrap around the rod to protect the barrel. You might even want to put a point on the rod to keep it centered in the slug. You shouldn't really have too hard of a time tapping out a pure lead slug. When I slug a barrel, I go from the chamber end towards the bore. Good luck.

 

[Melnic]

After getting some wood stuck 8 years ago as it splintered and jammed into the barrel,
I got several brass rods from Amazonian
3 longer ones plus several variety sizes to get closer to the bore ID to start things off
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HH1F47T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVRKJZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I was using the cerrosafe knock off on a pitted chamber, I was sure glad I had the brass.
If you get mushrooming, just file the ends.

I use a soft lead musket ball for slugging picking a size that is over the bore ID for sure so I get a longer run of the grooves. IMO, you really want soft lead and run like clear grease through it first. I put grease on a patch and run it up and down first, then I dab the ball in grease then into the muzzle first. I tap it at the muzzle with a soft tipped gun mallet till its in, then start using the shorter brass rod. I use some clear superlube from the tube.

 

[Doco Overboard]

So I casted 311 bullets in pure lead and went at slugging my guns.

Marlin 336 it was tightest at the muzzle and slide smoothly 1/2 through to the chamber. Got a .308 measurement.

Remi 30.06 I started the bullet in the muzzle and noticed it didn't move as easily. The rubber mallet started deforming the base more than the 30-30. It got in the muzzle went in about an inch or so and stopped. Now the 1/4" wood dowels are breaking instead of moving the bullet.

So I am looking for options on the 30.06. I was considering putting a gas check on the top or bottom end and tap on the metal rod and tapping it back out the muzzle. This DID NOT go as I expected.

Next time oil the bore with a light oil. Get some oil in there now and let it soak.
A soft steel polished one piece rod as close to bore diameter as possible will (should) drive it out.
The idea is to keep the rod from flexing in a small area and damaging the rifling. Especially if repeated heavy blows become necessary. A close to bore size rod will distribute the force of the pounding if it gets that bad. Close to bore diameter reduces the chance of the end of the rod from wedging itself in between the slug and the interior of the bore creating a gouge.
You can melt it out too in an extreme case.
Harry Pope advocated making the end of the rod square.
But what did he know right? I never had to go that far so wouldn't know myself. Step away when it gets tough, heat could be your friend in worst case scenarios.
Hopefully it goes as planned, it went in alright it'll come out.

 

[John from MD]

Why are you pounding a bullet in from the muzzle? If you don't want to do a bore cast, it is much easier ( and less damaging) to drop a soft ball into the chamber and push it through.

 

[Park ranger]

What problem were you trying to solve with this procedure?

 

[GunBum]

A hole in the middle of the stuck lead will help relieve the pressure and allow it to come out. If you think you can manage drilling it without hitting the bore I’d give it a try.

 

[John from MD]

It's easier to buy sinkers at Bass Pro, they are already drilled.

 

[Archeryrob]

Many people on here said slug the bore, and left it at that. So I worked on it, without directions. So I researched it and watched a bunch of videos and slugging down the muzzle to the breach was what they did in the few videos I found. There is not much out there on this. For instance, the Cast bullets site posts this link a lot. It says slug the bore, states nothing of from which direction, or to oil the barrel first. http://www.tmtpages.com/draw/HelpfilesUlt-5/Bullet_Design_Adv-5_Help.html It would probably help if people would write directions for new people as if a new person was reading it. Not as if speaking to a friend that already knows how to do it. I just figured a soft bullet would be just as good. No one seems to write what not to do.

In retrospect, I noticed on my 30-30 the lands are tighter in the muzzle end than the breach end. So, now after considering that slugging from the breach to the muzzle might provide a sizing the entire ride down the barrel. Where as I assumed it was sized instantly, or in short order once contacting the lands.

I'll white lightning it and let it set and tape a steel rod and tap it out later on.

 

[Doco Overboard]

Save the electrical tape o rings and drill bits for when it gets bad or if you want something worse going on later on.
Get a close to bore diameter as you can clean steel rod and drive that sucker out the opposite way it was started.
Clamp the barrel in a vise after lightly oiling it, remove the bolt and give it a go with a nice heavy hammer.
Bet it comes right out.
Theirs a lot of dumb stuff to be read on the internet because it doesn't cost any thing to publish it.
Next time use buckshot/lightly oil because its round and small so theirs less tension.
If your considering bore diameter in a marlin if it has micro groove rifling just cast the breech with cerro safe.
Go from there. Bullet set up almost occurs the very instant pressure builds to start the bullet moving.
The first inch is everything. Sounds familiar doesn't it?
Let us know when you got it out, you'll get it ok.

 

[John from MD]

Maybe you missed Melnic's tutorial on bore slugging so here it is.

https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?254286&p=6232621#post6232621

 

[GunBum]

It's easier to buy sinkers at Bass Pro, they are already drilled.

Unless it is already in the bore...

 

[Archeryrob]

My 336 is a '51 and regular grooves in it. Micro didn't start until '63 as I have read.

John, Melnic's post was on Chamber casting, not slugging. Some the feel of my 336, I expect the chamber to be 309 to 310 unless the bullets just slide that easy after being worked. That was to be next, but I have this to deal with later on.

 

[John from MD]

My 336 is a '51 and regular grooves in it. Micro didn't start until '63 as I have read.

John, Melnic's post was on Chamber casting, not slugging. Some the feel of my 336, I expect the chamber to be 309 to 310 unless the bullets just slide that easy after being worked. That was to be next, but I have this to deal with later on.

Chamber casting, slugging the barrel are done the same way with Cerrosafe. You can make a cast of your chamber and lead and another of your muzzle to check for wear and erosion. The process is much easier and more exact than pounding lead down a bore.

 

[Archeryrob]

The spray lube did the work. Let it puddle on top the bullet for 5 minutes and started tapping with the rubber hammer and wooden dowels and it started moving again. The highest reading I could find was 308 and most 307 groove read 3075

 

[Park ranger]

So lesson, don't do this again. Are you surprised at these findings.

 

[noahhh]

Chamber casting, slugging the barrel are done the same way with Cerrosafe. You can make a cast of your chamber and lead and another of your muzzle to check for wear and erosion. The process is much easier and more exact than pounding lead down a bore.

Yep. What you want to determine is your throat diameter anyway, for sizing cast bullets. Forget groove diameter. Seriously. That old bit of folklore simply refuses to die. Size your bullet about a half-thou under throat diameter. The whole idea is to cork the bore up tight with the bullet, right outside the case mouth. That, and if you loaded the bullet straight into the case, will be half the battle won right there in the quest for accuracy without leading. (If the bullet is loose in the throat you'll allow hot gasses to cut past it until it has had a chance to "bump up" to size. Therein lies the source of most leading.)

 

[noahhh]

Never grind a point in a rod to drive a bullet out of a barrel. That does nothing more than act as a wedge in the lead, expanding it even tighter into the rifling.

 

[KRC]

"Never grind a point in a rod to drive a bullet out of a barrel. That does nothing more than act as a wedge in the lead, expanding it even tighter into the rifling."

Done this for years, with no problems, but is not necessary if the rod has been wrapped to keep it centered in the bore as well. I've never experienced a "stuck" bullet. Most of the time, once the bullet is obturated into the bore at the chamber end the rod and bullet can be moved without tapping. Resistance will be felt with very small changes in bore diameter.

I have not done this to determine bullet sizing, but to examine bore tightness on new barrels for determination and checking of muzzle/crown location. This is also why I do not use muzzle brakes on most of my rifles, as the loosening of the bore at the muzzle (threaded portion) is usually quite evident.