Has anyone ever shot a pistol using rifle suppressor? The suppressor is a 5.56 Turbo suppressor from YHM made for a rifle. The pistol is a .22lr pistol with a threaded barrel. Because the pistol doesn't have a reciprocating slide and barrel, there's no need for a piston in the suppressor.
Rifle suppressor on pistol
- Thread starter wabbit
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- Jul 29, 2014
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Will the threads match up? I guess the main problem would be cleaning it out. .22lr is so dirty. Other than that, have at it.
Might be kinda heavy.
Might be kinda heavy.
crolfe1984
Enthusiast
Like outrider stated, unnecessary weight and the cleaning factor.
You certainly can run a 556 suppressor on a pistol, but it isn't ideal. Most sealed cans would foul incredibly fast w/ 22LR.
You certainly can run a 556 suppressor on a pistol, but it isn't ideal. Most sealed cans would foul incredibly fast w/ 22LR.
Yea, this.
If you rifle can is serviceable, then you can clean it. Otherwise, I would have a dedicated 22 can. 22 is incredibly dirty. It will junk up the can with lead and carbon. The lead is the hard part of the equation.
I have shot .22's through my Paladin 300 but I had to build an adapter for it. It is very heavy too. It worked pretty well considering it is made for .311 bullets and I am shooting .222 bullets.
I thought was pretty soft?
The lead gets heat fused onto the baffles. It is a royal PIA to clean off. If you have SS baffles you can use a thing called the DIP, but is toxic. Some people use a tumbler with SS pins, some try and pick and scar it off.
If your rifle can was expensive, I would get a rimfire can.
Lead melts and then coats the baffles. I have found that I can spray Deep Creep in my cans after a shooting day and then the next time I shoot them, it will blow most of the lead out. I did this with user servicable cans so it was easy to validate that the process works.
One down side is you get lots of smoke for the first half dozen or so shots.
Deep Creep is a penetrating oil made by Seafoam.
Amazon product ASIN B00WROB5HO
It also works to blow out lead deposits in muzzle devices.
Yeah, I have a Spectre II. I noticed the POI was way off so I took it apart. I could scrape chunks of lead out of it. My BIL did a brake fluid bake on his which helps keep the fouling down. I have done the DIP in the past with good results but the lead acetate is extremely toxic so you have to wear gloves. You can use phosphoric acid from the brew store to precipitate the lead back into solid form and then dispose of it that way. I use a coffee filter to catch the lead and the liquid gets dumped. It's a fun science project. My Rugged Obsidian 45 is rated for .22 but I wouldn't shoot .22 out of it. I've only shoot .300blk, .45, and 9mm out of it so far. It's pretty quiet on my G41. The 9mm subs are quiet too but not as much as the .45s. My BIL messed up my 9mm end cap because his rifle had an O-ring on the end of it and it had enough play to just nick the cap, the baffles were fine.
True, it was a play on words in regards to your post, that the lead was the hardest part. Bad joke on my part. I've done the DIP and it works but it's messy and you have to precipitate the lead out for it to be safe'ish.
I shoot all lead 9mm through my Obsidian 9. It comes off the baffles easy in the ultrasonic cleaner using a 50/50 mix of CLR and distilled water.
I guess you learned the hard way that you need a solid 90 degree mating surface for cans or else.
alucard0822
For great Justice
Will it work, yes, but rifle cans absolutely suck at suppressing rimfire.
Figure a rifle can is probably 2-3X the weight and size of a rimfire can. The spacing and baffle design needs a lot more gas volume than rimfire has, and rimfire tends to be kinda loud out of a centerfire rifle or pistol can, especially rimfire handguns. Lead fouling is of course an issue with a sealed can, but there is also the fact that newer rimfire cans tend to have some method of shielding things like mounts, baffles and threads from fouling. Even lead pistol ammo tends not to be anywhere near as filthy as rimfire, usually just some lead on top of fouling that kinda flakes off with a brush, and strips off easy with most cleaning methods. Lead in rimfire cans is far worse, ends up being a gummy shiny layer bonded to the metal, and takes chemicals or blasting with abrasives to remove.
Figure a rifle can is probably 2-3X the weight and size of a rimfire can. The spacing and baffle design needs a lot more gas volume than rimfire has, and rimfire tends to be kinda loud out of a centerfire rifle or pistol can, especially rimfire handguns. Lead fouling is of course an issue with a sealed can, but there is also the fact that newer rimfire cans tend to have some method of shielding things like mounts, baffles and threads from fouling. Even lead pistol ammo tends not to be anywhere near as filthy as rimfire, usually just some lead on top of fouling that kinda flakes off with a brush, and strips off easy with most cleaning methods. Lead in rimfire cans is far worse, ends up being a gummy shiny layer bonded to the metal, and takes chemicals or blasting with abrasives to remove.
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At least it was just the cap that you can replace. Lesson learned. Stupid BIL and his goofy PTR.I shoot all lead 9mm through my Obsidian 9. It comes off the baffles easy in the ultrasonic cleaner using a 50/50 mix of CLR and distilled water.
I guess you learned the hard way that you need a solid 90 degree mating surface for cans or else.
I would put the jar in the shed and and leave the lid loose. The liquid would eventually evaporate leaving only the lead. I didn't want to pour that crap out anywhere. I have a couple jars a used to rotate...
yellow97tt6spd
Member
There shouldn’t be an issue with the suppressor, and the threads should match up. The main issue you will have is it being way bigger, and heavier than it needs to be.
As for the lead, as long as you run a handful of full power rounds through it after every 100 22lr shots, you’ll be fine. The incredible concussion from the full power rounds shakes any recent lead deposits loose, and keeps the can from fouling.
The big issue would be if you forget to do this one day, then run 1,000 rounds of 22lr through the can. By that time they’ll be big enough lead chunks that when you fire the can one of those flakes might pop loose, settle in/ on a baffle edge along the bore axis, and wind up deflecting a bullet through other baffles on its way out.
This is per Dead Air… But the logic should/ would hold true through any suppressor brand.
As for the lead, as long as you run a handful of full power rounds through it after every 100 22lr shots, you’ll be fine. The incredible concussion from the full power rounds shakes any recent lead deposits loose, and keeps the can from fouling.
The big issue would be if you forget to do this one day, then run 1,000 rounds of 22lr through the can. By that time they’ll be big enough lead chunks that when you fire the can one of those flakes might pop loose, settle in/ on a baffle edge along the bore axis, and wind up deflecting a bullet through other baffles on its way out.
This is per Dead Air… But the logic should/ would hold true through any suppressor brand.
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