Need help assembling a custom Glock

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  • Armed Citizen

    Active Member
    Jul 27, 2010
    141
    Hey folks, not sure what I'm doing wrong but I'm trying to assemble a Glock 17 that I'm piecing together. The upper and upper parts are from Zaffiri Precision, the lower parts are from a couple companies. I put everything together in the upper and lower and when I go to attach the slide to the frame, it won't go into battery after racking the slide. The only way I can get it back apart is to remove the firing pin so it leads me to believe something is out of spec or assembled wrong on the firing pin or trigger assembly. But I compare it to my factory Glocks and I don't see anything out of place. Also thought maybe the firing pin sleeve wasn't all the way it so I tapped it pretty hard again using the sleeve tool and it seems to be all the way in. Has anyone else had this issue? Or know what I did wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated!

    Pics:
    1. Assembled but won't go into battery
    2. firing pin assembly
    3. bottom of slide with assembly in place
    4. trigger assembly
     

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    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,982
    If you have a factory G17, try parts swapping. Do it on part at a time.

    Start out with the whole slide if you can.

    Make sure you have the proper locking block.

    Make sure the drop safety spring is in properly. Also, make sure the safety retracts all the way flush with ceiling of the slide.
     

    smokey

    2A TEACHER
    Jan 31, 2008
    31,497
    What's the front locking block area look like? It's fuzzy in the pictures above. Other question after seeing the plate... does the striker plunger freely move up and down? I'm wondering if the striker is interacting with the plunger in a way that's blocking its travel.
     
    Last edited:

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,982
    Make sure you have the slide lock facing in the correct direction, with the grooved top edge facing rearward.
     

    Armed Citizen

    Active Member
    Jul 27, 2010
    141
    Thank you for the suggestions! I kept fiddling with it and figured out it's not the trigger that's hanging up, it's the back plate on the end of the trigger assembly. I was able to sand it down a bit and now it will fit together although tight. Trigger is also very heavy. Guess that's what I get for cheaping out and getting $40 lower parts kit. If anyone knows of a good replacement drop in let me know. Considering this one now.

     

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    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,982
    Thank you for the suggestions! I kept fiddling with it and figured out it's not the trigger that's hanging up, it's the back plate on the end of the trigger assembly. I was able to sand it down a bit and now it will fit together although tight. Trigger is also very heavy. Guess that's what I get for cheaping out and getting $40 lower parts kit. If anyone knows of a good replacement drop in let me know. Considering this one now.

    Probably should have tried a different rear plate lol, but anyhoo, depending on what you are expecting out of your trigger I've had good luck with Orange County triggers. You can get them as fancy or plain as you want. Also, while you're at it, if you haven't already, replace the gen 3 ejector with a gen 4-5 (#30274). You won't be sorry.


    Do you own a Glock inspection rear plate? If you are replacing trigger bars in Glocks, you really need one.

     

    jokie

    Active Member
    May 27, 2020
    370
    A in AA
    I second occustomtriggers.com. They also have an ebay store. Ships fast and their OEM parts prices are cheaper than most sellers.
     

    jokie

    Active Member
    May 27, 2020
    370
    A in AA
    OEM trigger bar + OEM trigger housing + Johnny glock (Ranger Proof) VEX F3 trigger works really well for me! Does not change the factory trigger pull weight but gets rid of the long(ish) take up.
     

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