Mosin Accurizing Kit... Thoughts?

[Josh Smith]

This is a basic accurizing kit for the Mosin-Nagant.

This is the first basic accurizing kit and will work for the majority of the Russian and Chinese Mosin-Nagant rifles and carbines out there.

Included:

•1 front and 1 rear shim. These are thick and eliminate random pressure points in the stock bedding.

•1 recoil lug shim. This keeps your Mosin's action tight against the recoil lug in its stock, providing repeatability shot-to-shot. An added benefit is that the screws don't absorb the recoil and so stay tight.

•One barrel pressure pad. Taming barrel harmonics is essential to precision and accuracy.

•Instructions are included.

The tang shim is smaller than is usually seen, and the shims that should be steel, are, with the recoil lug shim being brass.

The pressure point is thin, oiled gasket stock, but I may change this to slightly thicker cork gasket. The fiber gasket just holds oil better and should work for the majority of people.

What do you think?

Regards,

Josh

 

[mopar92]

I'd buy one. PM Yellowsled and you may become a millionaire.

 

[yellowsled]

i collect way more than i shoot.

 

[Bootknife]

What kind of money were you thinking?

 

[Josh Smith]

What kind of money were you thinking?

I'm thinking $15 shipped. I just listed it on the website for that.

Thanks,

Josh

 

[frdfandc]

I'd buy one as well.

 

[psoyring]

Somebody on gunboards is selling a similar kit, but the metal shims are much thinner.

 

[Tankfixr]

Looks good.

 

[SlotMachine]

(new mosin owner) im confused, how do these parts help accuracy? arent the barrel, sights and shooter the key parts to accuracy? again, new mosin owner..

 

[psoyring]

These parts "float the barrel" changing the harmonics.

 

[NHaze]

(new mosin owner) im confused, how do these parts help accuracy? arent the barrel, sights and shooter the key parts to accuracy? again, new mosin owner..

In general, your basic mosin is good to hit the broad side of a barn. That's a lot of barrel flopping around in a lot of wood furniture with an (often) somewhat loose action creating accuracy issues. Floating the barrel and bedding or shimming the action help greatly.

 

[Josh Smith]

Somebody on gunboards is selling a similar kit, but the metal shims are much thinner.

Mine are made to serve the average shooter best, with a minimum of tinkering.

They're based on the study of Finnish techniques and on the results of over to years experimentation.

The gent from Gunboards certainly has a more authentic kit, but I feel mine will serve the average shooter best:

1. Install the shims.

2. Tighten the front and rear screws to approximately the same tightness.

3. Fire a five-shot group and record results.

4. Back the rear screw off a little (5in-lbs at a time, if you have a torque driver; 1/4 turn or so if you do not)

5. Repeat steps 3 and four until you find the sweet spot for your rifle. You'll get to a point where the groups begin to open up again; when you see this, tighten the rear screw back 1/4 turn and leave it there.

It's all about tuning for harmonics. I love that kit that the Gunboards gent is making, but in all honesty, do you want to mess with all those shims, or shoot the rifle? As well, his kit has a third pressure point as he uses a behind-the-lug shim instead of going right underneath with a hole for the screw to pass through.

Most Mosins will not have the magazine touching the receiver when shimmed at the top; if you have one that does, you probably should replace the stock.

In my opinion, the recoil lug shim is probably the most essential shim in the whole kit. He should probably add one. I haven't seen many, if any, historically placed in front of the lugs. I borrowed that idea from reading about accurizing techniques for other rifles.

Regards,

Josh

 

[BunkerKing]

I don't shoot my M44 much, but off a bench I get a decent group (ringing a 6in steel plate)@ 100 yards for being an open sight carbine. And that's using cheap surplus ammo. I don't know if I have a unicorn, but I have no complaints about my accuracy. But I'm willing to try this out to see if it further aids accuracy.

 

[BradMacc82]

I don't shoot my M44 much, but off a bench I get a decent group (ringing a 6in steel plate)@ 100 yards for being an open sight carbine. And that's using cheap surplus ammo. I don't know if I have a unicorn, but I have no complaints about my accuracy. But I'm willing to try this out to see if it further aids accuracy.

I'm in the same boat with my '42 91/30.

Open sights with bayonet attached, can ring a sub 6" plate all day with 147gr surplus. But I'd be interested in seeing if there's more to be had out of it.

 

[defygravity]

I'd certainly be interested. My 35hex is fairly accurate, I can hit an 8" target at 300 with the irons, but I have to shoot about a foot or so high right.

Perhaps floating the barrel could dial it in even more.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

[Sirex]

I think part of the fun in the hobby of owning a Mosin, is taking a relatively affordable, stereotyped rifle and try to wring as much accuracy as possible out of it. I'd like to get a few eventually and see how I can get mine shooting. Just can't right now.

 

[Melnic]

After going through spare stocks as well as original stocks on my mosins, There are differences in depth at the front lug from stock to stock. Some have come in with tang shims and some not. Some had shims on the bottom and some did not. My sniper already had a front recoil lug shim but there was still room for a .015" shim. Josh's basic kit will make a difference if you are taking your time to aim and bench resting it. I'm still tweeking my sniper as well as my other mosins and so far, doing this stuff makes a difference. Accuracy is a subjective term. People will say "its accurate" but that's just to ambiguous. What size group can you consistently get at Xyards? Shimming and such reduced my groups at 100yds on the Sniper to I recall about 60% the size when it was unmodded. But by comparison, my K31 is still more accurate than my PU Sniper and I never touched it. This basic kit Josh has is worth the price compared to hunting down the materials and making it yourself (Like I did). Unless you already have the material and punch. I'd invite people to shoot your mosins un modded and get an idea on what it will do before accurizing it. Then you'll know the value. Check your 5 shot group sizes at 50 and/or 100yds then do the accurizing and check again. How your barrel is heating up can have an affect as much as other things like ammo, your eyesight, trigger pull etc. I have yet to experiment with rear tang pressure. That's on my list though.

 

[C-Par]

I'm very interested in the kit and one of your front sights.

 

[reverendbeer]

(new mosin owner) im confused, how do these parts help accuracy? arent the barrel, sights and shooter the key parts to accuracy? again, new mosin owner..

As is, straight out of the crate, a Mosin will do exactly what it's designed for: whacking a Nazi at 20 yards.

Nowadays, we kinda expect a bit more. Why can't we get that immediately? Two reasons: 1. Mass production, and 2. refurbishment of the mass production.

The initial production of the Mosin was designed for three purposes:

1. To function in any environment.
2. To undergo "significant" abuse and still function.
3. To hit it's target at (approximately) 20 yards.

When it was produced, #1 and #2 (equalling #3) were preferable to a 90+yd kill zone. -30F winters, crawling around in +80F muddy trenches, and having 30+ million expendable troops have that sort of effect on military planning. And, as such, it does all three EXTREMELY well. Proof.

Unfortunately, to achieve #1 and #2, they were designed to be loose. Rearseneling only made that "worse" in many cases, since much of it was shaving off bits of crap parts--now it's even looser. They're still good to kill Nazis at 20 yards...but in many cases, that's it.

However, in this enlightened and not-at-all extreme day and age, we prefer rifles to perform a little better than #3, and #1 and #2 are hardly necessary.

So why can't it be OMFGnegativeMOA out-of-the-crate? Well, they're loose. Like I said, they were built for 1 and 2, and that means loose tolerances. When fired, the action moves back, up and down, and the barrel bounces up and down and back and forth like a spastic basketball. Now, when I say that, I'm talking about millimeters (in extreme cases), microns (in the best cases), and a combination of both in all cases.

- The action shims firm up the action. Solidifies it...To be technical, it makes it not move a whole bunch. It's tightened down to the stock and to the recoil bolt...it's not going to move in the frame (much) anymore.

- The barrel shims stop the barrel from moving in the frame (much). The shims hold the barrel to the wood. Now, ideally, the barrel won't flex up, down, left, or right a lot--it's STILL going to move, no matter what, just not a lot now.

With these things "solidified" (in quotes cuz it's STILL gonna move some), the bullet is going to be MUCH more stable.

So now we shoot:

*BOOM* no more wiggle in the action. it's solid to the stock, stopping most movement during firing. The barrel shims stop most movement in the barrel during firing, limiting cavitation in the barrel (hold a string at both ends, move both up and down. see that curve? imagine a bullet going through that...the barrel shims limit that curvature.) The bullet exits the barrel at it's most stable...more stability=more accuracy...what the scientists call "bullet go more straighter."

Any issue after that is just you being all nervous and stuff.