Looking for the "right" wheel gun..

[Muleskinner]

Full disclosure I don't own any centerfire revolvers. I have fired a multitude but have never felt the desire to actually own one until recently. I know there's a lot of you with a lot of experience and I value your opinion so this is what I'm looking for And if such an animal does not exist please let me know that..

I prefer 357 mag but would consider the possibility of a 38 special if I can find ammunition that would be comparable to a 9 mm.

Smallest frame possible. Lightest material that's going to hold up well, probably iron but I'm not real familiar with what else is available. Aluminum? Titanium? Just not sure.

I prefer a flush external hammer but I'm not going to rule out internal DA only.

In 357 mag 5 rounds is acceptable in a 38 it must be 6.

As of right now I don't have a top end budget but I'm not going to pay stupid money for one either. Prefer a top shelf brand but not opposed to a second tier brand like Taurus or Rock Island. I don't know much about some of the other low end brands like Rossi. Probably would end up with a Colt or a Smith & Wesson or a Ruger but I'm open to all suggestions. Thanks in advance

I'm looking for a backup concealed carry piece.

 

[DutchV]

Ruger SP101 would be a good call for a durable 5 shot .357 Mag. The S&W model 60 is similar in size but more refined, especially the trigger. There's also the Ruger LCR or LCRX in .357 and they are pretty light. S&W has lightweight options, too, like a 340PD that is under 12 ounces.

The lighter guns aren't much fun to shoot with magnums, though. Might want to see if you can try one first.


ETA: I'd also look at the Kimbers. I've heard good things about them but haven't seen one in person yet.

 

[TI-tick]

S&W 636.

 

[John from MD]

If you aren't familiar with the aluminum, titanium frame revolvers, you would do best to stay away from them. Shooting .357 in them has a lot of recoil and, some folks have just sold them off after shooting a couple of cylinders.

The current Taurus line is much better than those years ago. The last .44 Mag I carried in bear country was a Taurus Tracker and it was totally reliable. I would stay away from the current Rossi and Iver Johnson as people are still having issues with them.

 

[Pyramid]

S&W 640 is nice, all stainless steel but the same size as other J frame models (642, etc.). The little extra weight helps with recoil and you have a lot options with ammo, 38 special, plus P or 357 mag.

 

[308Scout]

I'm looking for a backup concealed carry piece.

The Ruger LCR or Kimber K6s may be exactly what you're looking for. The Ruger is available in 5 rounds of .357. Weights in at 17oz for the .357 model (the .38 spl+p model is ~13 oz). Depending on recoil sensitivity, they can be punishing after a couple of cylinders. The Kimber is almost identical dimension wise, weighs in at 23oz, but holds 6. you're paying a good bit more for that extra round in the Kimber, though. The Ruger SP101 (available with a spurless hammer) may also be a good choice, and moderates recoil more than the LCR at 25oz.

Here's an overlay of all three for a size comp (LCR is the semi-transparent top layer):

I went through a similar revolver exercise late last year. I was looking for a small .38 spl and ended up with the LCR and S&W j-frame models as the final contenders. In the end, I just preferred the LCR a bit more after getting hands on with both options - It just fit my hand better, had a trigger that I liked better, and the option for changeable front sights factored in for me.

 

[6-Pack]

I carry a Taurus 856 (38 special) every time I go out to a non-prohibited location.

It’s not the highest end gun, but it’s accurate (at least as accurate as a 2” barrel can be), goes bang every time I pull the trigger, and is lightweight (easy to carry).

 

[outrider58]

If you aren't familiar with the aluminum, titanium frame revolvers, you would do best to stay away from them. Shooting .357 in them has a lot of recoil and, some folks have just sold them off after shooting a couple of cylinders.

The current Taurus line is much better than those years ago. The last .44 Mag I carried in bear country was a Taurus Tracker and it was totally reliable. I would stay away from the current Rossi and Iver Johnson as people are still having issues with them.

I've shot the S&W J frames in .38 and found them very shootable and accurate. Of course most, if not all are 5 shots and not 6.

 

[[Kev308]]

The .357 Ruger sp101 spurless hammer has a great trigger. It's smooth all the way thru and has a consistent pressure the entire pull until it just goes "bang!" (There is no wall)

The only downside is that it is not the lightweight option you are looking for.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Brother Muleskinner ! Welcome to the world of Revolvers !

I am a Revolver Fan and a Revolver Advocate . Please take this in the spirit intended , in trying to guide you in your Revolver Journey :

You list of criteria is contradictory .
What you Think you want , isn't what you actually want .

IF , .357 , or .38 that approaches 9mm std pressure is a fixed parameter . you do Not want " as light as possible " . Your goal is Suitably Light . ***** ( if post length permits , I'll discuss that at the end ) .

Your starting point is all steel J frame , and extends up to Ruger SP101 .

Shrouded Hammer , is a narrow field , primarily the S&W Bodyguard family . Fully enclosed hammers , and spurless hammer gives a wider range of options.
. and overlaps the virtues of Shrouded . And traditional hammers are also viable for most uses .

My default recommendations center around Steel Frame J frames ( in .38 spl ) , and SP101 ( generally , and particularly if full power .357 is possibly on the horizon ) .

************************

DA Revolvers have a significant Learning Curve to use them anywhere near to their potential . You're going to put a lot of mindful round count to get there

I'm a recoil junky . O have shot Expert on Qual with 13oz revolver with 158 +P . But it was painful to shoot 50 rounds of it . Sure , for a gun load or two , you can suck it up . But it's too Brutal to be able to shoot enough for initial skill building .

Rent . or meet up with MDS buddies , and test drive a steel J and an SP101 . You'll say to yourself . " Wow , I can shoot the SP101 a lot better and more accurately " . Trust me . The J can be at least as accurate , when your DA Trigger skills approach the capabilities of the gun .

Not what you are looking to hear , but I can make an argument that you should have a Medium frame 3-4 inch . And a small frame snubbie . The K frame ( or reasonable equivalent ) will be pleasant to shoot lots of rounds , and your trigger finger muscle memory will be significantly transferable to small frame snubbie .

 

[John from MD]

I've shot the S&W J frames in .38 and found them very shootable and accurate. Of course most, if not all are 5 shots and not 6.

You haven't lived until you touch off a few .357 158gn +P's in a Scandium S&W J frame.


Of course your arthritis is going to hurt like hell when you grow up.

 

[Boats]

Smith model 360PD.

Has external hammer. Scandium frame (a very robust aluminum alloy) and a titanium cylinder. 5 shot, ported, .357

My uncle owned one for years and shot a lot with it. It held up great.

Buy once, cry once. It's around $1000

 

[outrider58]

You haven't lived until you touch off a few .357 158gn +P's in a Scandium S&W J frame.


Of course your arthritis is going to hurt like hell when you grow up.

I'm already there. That's why I only shoot 9mm now. Lol

 

[Biggfoot44]

You haven't lived until you touch off a few .357 158gn +P's in a Scandium S&W J frame.


Of course your arthritis is going to hurt like hell when you grow up.

I'm a recoil junkie , and 158 +P in 13oz revolver is the outer threshold of ( sarcastic) Fun . And I enjoy .454 and .50AE , one handed .

The lower limit of shooting full power .357 with meaningful accuracy and control is an SP101 .

 

[RFBfromDE]

Light and .357 do not mix well.

I have a SP101 for .357 and .38 +P.

A polymer S&W Bodyguard .38 Special (no laser) for EDC (5-shot)

 

[John from MD]

I'm a recoil junkie , and 158 +P in 13oz revolver is the outer threshold of ( sarcastic) Fun . And I enjoy .454 and .50AE , one handed .

The lower limit of shooting full power .357 with meaningful accuracy and control is an SP101 .

I was too. At one time, everything I owned started with .4 except my duty and off duty guns which started with .3.

But, life goes on and I sold all my .44 Mag rifles and pistols when my arthritis got bad. I still have some 1911's which I shoot Bullseye loads through and some 1873's that I shoot light loads through. I just can't give them up.

 

[Bob A]

FWIW Colt Detective Specials are 6 shot, and there exists a hammer shroud that makes drawing from concealment less problematic. For that matter, I think S&W made some M12s in 2" snubby. Both 38 spl, of course.

Personally, I don't see any attraction for 357 in a small revolver, or with a 2" barrel.
3" Python, 3" S&W 625, and 3.5" S&W M27 (N-frame) are as small as I'd care to own in that caliber. Of course, your hands are your own, to use and abuse.

What mission do you have in mind for a snubby 357. if I may ask?

 

[Garet Jax]

I can't help with the right one - only the wrong one.

 

[Uncle Duke]

It's been said many times, but it bears repeating. The revolver you'd most want to carry, and the one you'd most enjoy shooting, ain't likely to be the same gun. One (or the other) attribute will be the more important to you.

The revolver you leave at home because you hate to carry it won't be much help to you elsewhere. And the flip side? It's hard to become as proficient as you might otherwise become, with any firearm that you simply hate to shoot, and therefore avoid shooting.

I know what matters to me. What matters to me won't amount to a hill of beans for you.

You'll need to establish your own answer.

 

[wilcam47]

Get a .357 you can shoot .38's out of it. I have 686-7shot