Lee pro 6000 first impressions

[guzma393]

Press came in today. I got it mounted on the bench and greased up the contact surfaces and index mechanisms good.

It started out stiff at first, particularly the primer slider binding, but with a tiny dab of grease here and there, everything started working like clockwork.

Kudos to Lee on actually getting a primer system to work properly! The lee pro 6000 is a true progressive press and i highly recommend it, even more so if upgrading from a lee pro 4000/breech lock pro as the interface is pretty similar. I'm very impressed with the press so far. Churned out 300 rounds of 9mm as a break in.

 

[trickg]

I saw this last night but it was so late I didn’t respond.

That looks slick enough but my concern with it would be the same concern I have with my Lee APP - it works great once it’s dialed in, but getting it dialed in can be challenging, and it never quite seems to stay there.

How does it hold over a run of 100-200 rounds?

 

[guzma393]

I saw this last night but it was so late I didn’t respond.

That looks slick enough but my concern with it would be the same concern I have with my Lee APP - it works great once it’s dialed in, but getting it dialed in can be challenging, and it never quite seems to stay there.

How does it hold over a run of 100-200 rounds?

I been casually progressive loading batches of 100 9mm on it and it's performing just fine. You definitely get a "feel" for everything once you pass the break-in (interface learning curve, flaring, powder drop, seat, crimp tweaks, running grease on the contact surfaces) period (for me, it was about 300 rounds). The only real design "quirk" I see is that the primer trough does not feed the last couple of primers. I just been alleviating that by "priming" the primer trough with 2 additional primers to feed all 100 in the primer trays. OCD can kick in where I want the last 2 primers to prime, so I simply use a pick tool to feed the primers into the slider.

Been keeping an eye on the priming system to make sure it doesn't bind or seize. I'm wary of the primer return mechanism, where the slider receives the unused primer on the downstroke if there isn't a case to seat it on. Sometimes the primer is knocked ever so slightly out-of alignment causing a jam, but running the press slow to assure the unused primer goes back into the slider as been a successful means of corrective action.

Otherwise, I have only experienced one sideways primer on it, but that was my fault in failing to check primer alignment when I cleared a 380 auto case off the shellplate.

I haven't tried it with rifle cartridges, but I don't see why it wouldn't handle it.

The lee app can be a finicky machine due to the feedramp and shell plate engagement being off or affect by dirt and grit. I don't notice this on the lee pro6000. I been running washed 9mm cases on it and the only hold ups are the usual military crimp primer pockets, cracked case mouths, and 380 auto cases.

As a bonus, I'm working on a motorized bullet collator for it as we speak. I have it currently hooked up to a power drill and that has been better than manually putting the bullets by hand. The press has been performing and deserves to have automatic bullet and case feed systems on it.

 

[guzma393]

Here's another no-frills loading video. I even caught a hiccup where the case hung up on the feed ramp which was the first time that happened. Of course things start failing on camera Easy to address, but caught a second case hanging up on l the last second.

 

[trickg]

It looks like a pretty slick press - much better than the older Lee Loadmaster press. I read a lot of articles about that press and it has a following, but it seems like the guys who like that press are into tinkering, and there are a lot of aftermarket changes and parts upgrades that seem to have to be done before it runs well.

I loaded on my Dillon 550 tonight - roughly 400 rounds without a hiccup. (It would have been 400 rounds, but I was short 6 bullets for 45 ACP for the full 200 - I'm not sure why) However, I don't have a case feeder and I don't have a bullet feeder - the 550 doesn't lend itself well to those - it can be done, but the 750 is where its at for that, and I don't particularly feel like spending the cash it would take to put myself into a 750. It's bad enough looking at the amount of money I've got invested in my 550 setup with all of the toolheads, conversion kits, an extra powder measure so I can load rifle and pistol without having to do the charge bar swap.

I'll keep an eye on this thread to see how you get along with that press over time.

 

[gungate]

I also just got the 6000 and will soon run a batch. I do like the primer mechanism a LOT better than the cloogy 4000 mechanism. I fitted the Lee standard bullet feeder which takes 2 stations even though it should only need one (it slides/feeds the bullet under the bullet seating die) because of the way it attaches to the bullet seat die. But 5 is enough for me I got it because I wanted an extra station for a powder cop so 4 stations is not enough. I hope to run a batch of 300 45LC next week.

 

[KingClown]

I have the same press. Been using it for while. I love mine. I have hit 500 rounds an hour. I use a bullet feeder and case feeder. I have 3D printed some goodies that fill in the weak spots on it.
I have done 9mm 1000's actually. I cant do 30-06 case is to tell.
I will be trying 223\5.56 on it soon now that components are coming back in stock.
I started with a breech lock single stage.
Eventually I would like a dillon but this thing definitly gets the job done. I use a Mr. Bullet feeder for some and the Lee bullet feeder for others. Lead rounds the lee doesnt better but any rounds with a hollow or concave base my Mr. Bullet bullet feeder does better.

 

[My Toy]

Question for you guys using a progressive: I load on a RCBS Single stage Rockchucker. I've always been a stickler for cleaning primer pockets after I size and de-prime -- which I can do between press operations. Above guzama said he has "been running washed 9mm cases on it". My Question is that their is no way to clean fouling from primer pockets -- does that present any problem with seating fresh primers below flush with the case head?

 

[trickg]

Question for you guys using a progressive: I load on a RCBS Single stage Rockchucker. I've always been a stickler for cleaning primer pockets after I size and de-prime -- which I can do between press operations. Above guzama said he has "been running washed 9mm cases on it". My Question is that their is no way to clean fouling from primer pockets -- does that present any problem with seating fresh primers below flush with the case head?

Two words: "wet tumbling."

Do a bit of a Google-fu and you'll see what I mean. Wet tumble with SS pins after decapping, and even the dirtiest range pickup comes out looking brand new, including inside the case and primer pockets.

I don't do that - in fact, I usually don't even decap before I tumble. Why? It's just not necessary. I'm sure there will be a whole bunch of people who will jump in and say that it is, but it really isn't.

EDIT: If I was shooting precision rifle for competition, or shooting really long distances, I would wet tumble and clean my primer pockets. For that kind of shooting, being as absolutely consistent as possible is important. For the kind of shooting I do, it's not necessary.

For the guys doing progressive reloading, in my case I have decapped as a batch process using a Lee APP and a universal decapping die. That keeps the process pretty quick and allows for quick decapping prior to loading without having to size first.

 

[My Toy]

Two words: "wet tumbling."

Do a bit of a Google-fu and you'll see what I mean. Wet tumble with SS pins after decapping, and even the dirtiest range pickup comes out looking brand new, including inside the case and primer pockets.

I don't do that - in fact, I usually don't even decap before I tumble. Why? It's just not necessary. I'm sure there will be a whole bunch of people who will jump in and say that it is, but it really isn't.

EDIT: If I was shooting precision rifle for competition, or shooting really long distances, I would wet tumble and clean my primer pockets. For that kind of shooting, being as absolutely consistent as possible is important. For the kind of shooting I do, it's not necessary.

For the guys doing progressive reloading, in my case I have decapped as a batch process using a Lee APP and a universal decapping die. That keeps the process pretty quick and allows for quick decapping prior to loading without having to size first.

Okay so you guys typically de-cap then wet tumble before you start the progressive process. I do actually have a wet tumbler with stainless steel pins and used it years ago when I bought a ton of once fired LC 7.62; I de-capped first then tumbled before sizing on a single stage press.

 

[trickg]

Okay so you guys typically de-cap then wet tumble before you start the progressive process. I do actually have a wet tumbler with stainless steel pins and used it years ago when I bought a ton of once fired LC 7.62; I de-capped first then tumbled before sizing on a single stage press.

I don't do it that way, but a lot of folks do, and although I'm a die-hard vibratory tumbler guy, one can't deny the results of wet-tumbling.

There's another thread on here about "what did you do at your reloading bench today," where I've been talking about my recent experiences where my RCBS vibratory tumbler bit the dust - some folks suggested that I move towards wet tumbling, but I opted for another vibratory tumbler - that's just how I roll.

 

[My Toy]

I don't do it that way, but a lot of folks do, and although I'm a die-hard vibratory tumbler guy, one can't deny the results of wet-tumbling.

There's another thread on here about "what did you do at your reloading bench today," where I've been talking about my recent experiences where my RCBS vibratory tumbler bit the dust - some folks suggested that I move towards wet tumbling, but I opted for another vibratory tumbler - that's just how I roll.

I have used a large size Hornady vibrator tumbler for years. I agree it is a little dusty. It has a tight fitting lid on it and when done tumbling I don't remove the brass while it is running but slowly pour the contents in to a strainer (over a large Fischer Popcorn pail) that came with it and sift the strainer back and forth to remove most of the media. That is how I avoid most of the dust.

 

[guzma393]

Question for you guys using a progressive: I load on a RCBS Single stage Rockchucker. I've always been a stickler for cleaning primer pockets after I size and de-prime -- which I can do between press operations. Above guzama said he has "been running washed 9mm cases on it". My Question is that their is no way to clean fouling from primer pockets -- does that present any problem with seating fresh primers below flush with the case head?

For 9mm and other plinkers (already processed 223/300 blk and other pistol cartridges). I don't clean the primer pockets. I never had issues of primer seating since I prime on the bench, and I normally use hard primers (CCI, imported primers, etc.)

For brass that needs more prep than just resizing and decapping (I.e. trimming), I wet tumble (no SS pins) first, resize/decap, trim and deburr, then I wash with SS pins again to further finish the edges, remove case lube, remove trim chippings, clean primer pockets, and have nicely polished and thoroughly washed "prepped" cases ready for inspection and annealing. Annealing is done last so it can be easily ID'd if they have been annealed.

 

[My Toy]

For 9mm and other plinkers (already processed 223/300 blk and other pistol cartridges). I don't clean the primer pockets. I never had issues of primer seating since I prime on the bench, and I normally use hard primers (CCI, imported primers, etc.)

For brass that needs more prep than just resizing and decapping (I.e. trimming), I wet tumble (no SS pins) first, resize/decap, trim and deburr, then I wash with SS pins again to further finish the edges, remove case lube, remove trim chippings, clean primer pockets, and have nicely polished and thoroughly washed "prepped" cases ready for inspection and annealing. Annealing is done last so it can be easily ID'd if they have been annealed.

Thanks for the info.