Lansky sharpener or stone

[inkd]

I'm finding out the Lansky is a PITA to use on a large blade like my kitchen knife. 8" long blade is not what the Lansky was designed for. I'm going to go back to using my Arkansas stones. That motorized Work Sharp looks neat, but I'm afraid I'll ruin a blade by grinding it on any motorized grinder. The Lansky kit didn't come with any oil and the instructions that came with the clamp didn't mentioned oiling the stone, so I think I got one of the kits that don't use oil.

You could probably get another Lansky clamp and clamp if further down the blade and just move to the second clamp. But, if you can use a flat stone, I'd stuck with it. I don't want to use a motor driven sharpener for the same reason, I'm afraid I'll screw up my blades and I know I cannot use a flat stone. So, the Lansky is my go to.

 

[Doco Overboard]

Clamp the blade in the middle and push the Stone lengthwise in more of a sweeping motion than a perpendicular movement.
You will feel it honing the blade when you get used to it.
I use the regular kit when sharpening a filet, boning and meat cutting blades regularly.
Once you get your blades trained up, it gets easier.
I think those motorized sharpening systems would be alright for certain applications.
Any thing I intend to carry or really destroy something with I do by hand anyway.
Some knives, you just cant sharpen too.
I bet that motorized kit would work well for those blades that won’t take an edge.
You could probably make longer sticks too out of some wire which should be offered or easily made up if you wanted to.

 

[outrider58]

Clamp the blade in the middle and push the Stone lengthwise in more of a sweeping motion than a perpendicular movement.
You will feel it honing the blade when you get used to it.
I use the regular kit when sharpening a filet, boning and meat cutting blades regularly.
Once you get your blades trained up, it gets easier.
I think those motorized sharpening systems would be alright for certain applications.
Any thing I intend to carry or really destroy something with I do by hand anyway.
Some knives, you just cant sharpen too.
I bet that motorized kit would work well for those blades that won’t take an edge.
You could probably make longer sticks too out of some wire which should be offered or easily made up if you wanted to.

Not to put too fine a point on this(haha), but the further you 'stretch' the Lansky type rod down the length of the blade, the more acute the blade angle becomes. I guess that's what you referred to as "blades trained"?

Not a criticism.

 

[Doco Overboard]

Yeah that’s right.
I sharpen blades that are much longer than 8”.
When they’re trained up the process is much more efficient.
Use the top post on the jig.
More acute angles are the side effect.
Too much of an acute angle on an overly hard blade can also lead to fracturing on some knives ,leading edge.

 

[BFMIN]

Doesn't that defeat the entire purpose of the Lansky guides with the 3 angles?
I use mine on a "Puma White Hunter", & a longer Damascus copy, which is probably the hardest to get "right", partly for length, but more because of the unique shape of the blade. The cutting (front edge) I use the 20° guide in 2 sections, 1 about 1/3 of the way from the bolster & the other at the widest part of the blade for the curved section at the tip. The rear (chopping) edge is much shorter & straighter, so I just do one opposite its center at 30°

 

[Headedthere]

I used to be decent at knife shapening, even got paid a few times. I've lost that art, and didn't know about the lansky stuff!

 

[hobiecat590]

I have used them all, (Edge Pro, Lansky, Japanese wet stones etc.) and this is the one I always go back to for speed. 2"belt would be better but the 1" belt works fine. I think Baldor makes these for Kalamazoo.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09453069

 

[alucard0822]

I have used them all, (Edge Pro, Lansky, Japanese wet stones etc.) and this is the one I always go back to for speed. 2"belt would be better but the 1" belt works fine. I think Baldor makes these for Kalamazoo.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09453069

I have a 1x30 sander and it is OK. I want a 2x42", there are a couple that also have a grinding wheel that can use wood/leather or paper wheels to strop. Problem is I had to add a speed control switch, and kinda want one with variable speed, but not a lot out there till you get to really really expensive 2" units. I've had the best lick with Trizact belts, they are available in a lot of grits, last a long time, and being basically pyramid shaped polymer points with the grit mixed in they keep cool and sharpen fast with a really nice finish. I use the power sander for reprofiling, a quick edge on some stuff, but usually just for stropping or finishing up knives I sharpened by hand on an edge pro. I'm good with the powered unit, but still would rather take as little metal off as possible on really expensive knives. Still kind of looking for a new jig system, it's not great for some complex shapes, and has a habit of scuffing blades when worn grit runs down onto the blade flats or the blade holder on the sharpener. Don't want to drop the money on a wicked edge, but think that might be the way to go for a clamp jig system.

 

[Boondock Saint]

I'm not sure if I have unrealistic standards for sharpness from a run of the mill Kershaw folder, but I always have been a little disappointed in my results from the Lansky kit. My knife is surely sharper at the end, but never that buttery smooth sharpness. I think I use the 20 degree angle (the middle of the three holes, I think the others are 15 and 28, but I don't recall).

It works, and certainly well enough for both my purposes and at its price point. I'm probably just doing something wrong and/or have higher than practical expectations.

 

[hobiecat590]

I have a 1x30 sander and it is OK. I want a 2x42", there are a couple that also have a grinding wheel that can use wood/leather or paper wheels to strop. Problem is I had to add a speed control switch, and kinda want one with variable speed, but not a lot out there till you get to really really expensive 2" units. I've had the best lick with Trizact belts, they are available in a lot of grits, last a long time, and being basically pyramid shaped polymer points with the grit mixed in they keep cool and sharpen fast with a really nice finish. I use the power sander for reprofiling, a quick edge on some stuff, but usually just for stropping or finishing up knives I sharpened by hand on an edge pro. I'm good with the powered unit, but still would rather take as little metal off as possible on really expensive knives. Still kind of looking for a new jig system, it's not great for some complex shapes, and has a habit of scuffing blades when worn grit runs down onto the blade flats or the blade holder on the sharpener. Don't want to drop the money on a wicked edge, but think that might be the way to go for a clamp jig system.

Jig/blade holder? Please post when you find one you like. I hand sharpen on the belt sander and maintaining the exact angle is hard. I have the same problem w/ the Edge Pro with non flat ground blades and longer blades. The leather belts are great for stropping.

 

[alucard0822]

I'm not sure if I have unrealistic standards for sharpness from a run of the mill Kershaw folder, but I always have been a little disappointed in my results from the Lansky kit. My knife is surely sharper at the end, but never that buttery smooth sharpness. I think I use the 20 degree angle (the middle of the three holes, I think the others are 15 and 28, but I don't recall).

It works, and certainly well enough for both my purposes and at its price point. I'm probably just doing something wrong and/or have higher than practical expectations.

There are a couple issues with Lansky, first is that the rods get bent or the angles are not uniform, so going from one stone to another results in a change in angle, and you have to take more steel off than you should. Easy enough to correct though, place the rods in stones, clamp the screws and level them against a flat table. Next is flex in the clamp, use just enough pressure so the stone cuts, if you are pushing, the blade will move in the clamp. 3rd is there are not enough angles, in the 17/20/25/30 clamp, really 17 and 20 are the only ones useable for a pocket knife, even then takes a lot of work and lost metal to take good steel a couple degrees different, and if you are doing a micro bevel, 10 degrees inclusive is massive.

With other systems that use a sliding adjustment for fine angles, you can use a marker and move the angle to match a factory angle exactly to clean up a sharp edge in a minute or two, especially useful with some knives like Spydercos that use a 30 degree inclusive (15 per side) angle. I like "microbevel" edges on fine grained steel. You sharpen and polish an edge, down to very fine grit over a couple thousand, then go a couple degrees steeper and use a 400-600 grit for a couple passes to clean up the burr, and give a little more bite to the edge. It will cut and feel sharper than it is, and more resistant to damage, and if it feels a little dull, just a couple passes on leather will strop it back to perfection, or worst case another couple passes with the coarse stone at the micro bevel angle.

 

[alucard0822]

Jig/blade holder? Please post when you find one you like. I hand sharpen on the belt sander and maintaining the exact angle is hard. I have the same problem w/ the Edge Pro with non flat ground blades and longer blades. The leather belts are great for stropping.

Work sharp has a new one, but plastic, the Wicked edge allows you to sharpen both sides with a pair of stones, but the stones are proprietary and complex as the guide rods pass through them. The KME is nice, appears simple, can use congress tools stones, but the holders are really wide, so not great for recurve or odd blade shapes. I use 1" stones on aluminum backers for most, but have triangle stones, tear drop, and 1/2" wide stones for serrated and recurve Really thinking the best idea is a clamp setup that can use the Edge pro rod/adjuster/stone holder, clamps the blade, and can flip over like the KME. LOTS of cheap amazon clamp/flip sharpeners, might be able to make something useful out of one to accept the edge pro peices.

 

[BFMIN]

I'm not sure if I have unrealistic standards for sharpness from a run of the mill Kershaw folder, but I always have been a little disappointed in my results from the Lansky kit. My knife is surely sharper at the end, but never that buttery smooth sharpness. I think I use the 20 degree angle (the middle of the three holes, I think the others are 15 and 28, but I don't recall).

It works, and certainly well enough for both my purposes and at its price point. I'm probably just doing something wrong and/or have higher than practical expectations.

It depends where you put the clamp.
I started with mine in the middle of the blades (usually something around 6") but I had the exact opposite issue to yours. The curved tip wasn't as sharp as the base of the blade which was a razor. I don't know where you clamp yours but maybe try moving it a little along the blade spine & see if you can find a sweet spot?
I've had one ever since I discovered them back in the 80's I added the other 2 stones to make the 6 stone set from the three I originally had.
As for the rod issues I periodically et a stone face down on a piece of glass or something else dead flat & tweak the rod till its fully contacting the glass over its full length.
I think I've actually had to modify it maybe twice since I got it.
If you're bending the rods in use you're pressing way, way too hard.

 

[John from MD]

I gave up sharpening and just touch up my knives between sharpening. I take them to Burrbenders in Edgewater and he puts a nice edge on them when they need it.

 

[Phoenix_1295]

Lansky PS-MED01 BladeMedic https://a.co/d/gGXukX0

 

[Trigger Time]

There is no one sharpener that does it all. You need several ,and they all work good on the right knife.

 

[outrider58]

There is no one sharpener that does it all. You need several ,and they all work good on the right knife.

I would have to agree on that. Depending on which knife needs sharpening, I will use the best method.

 

[mauser58]

Hello everyone, I usually sharpen my kitchen knives with two Arkansas stones and oil, but ran out of knife oil so I was going to use olive oil. While I was looking for the olive oil, I found a Lansky knife sharpener I bought several years ago but didn't use. It's got a clamp with a guide to hold the stone at a fixed angle, but it doesn't use any oil. Does anyone have experience with the Lansky sharpener and know if it works as well or better than a set of two Arkansas stones in sharpening unserrated knives?
I've always sharpened knives with oil or some other lubricant, so I'm a bit leery of dry stones ability to sharpen as well as an oiled stone.
thanks in advance.

Use cutting oil or tap Majic tapping oil. You can get the stuff and cheap at hardware store or like Grainger's. I have a Smith three sided with three stones with a wood small stand. I have used them for many years on all my knives.

 

[Boondock Saint]

There are a couple issues with Lansky, first is that the rods get bent or the angles are not uniform, so going from one stone to another results in a change in angle, and you have to take more steel off than you should. Easy enough to correct though, place the rods in stones, clamp the screws and level them against a flat table. Next is flex in the clamp, use just enough pressure so the stone cuts, if you are pushing, the blade will move in the clamp. 3rd is there are not enough angles, in the 17/20/25/30 clamp, really 17 and 20 are the only ones useable for a pocket knife, even then takes a lot of work and lost metal to take good steel a couple degrees different, and if you are doing a micro bevel, 10 degrees inclusive is massive.

With other systems that use a sliding adjustment for fine angles, you can use a marker and move the angle to match a factory angle exactly to clean up a sharp edge in a minute or two, especially useful with some knives like Spydercos that use a 30 degree inclusive (15 per side) angle. I like "microbevel" edges on fine grained steel. You sharpen and polish an edge, down to very fine grit over a couple thousand, then go a couple degrees steeper and use a 400-600 grit for a couple passes to clean up the burr, and give a little more bite to the edge. It will cut and feel sharper than it is, and more resistant to damage, and if it feels a little dull, just a couple passes on leather will strop it back to perfection, or worst case another couple passes with the coarse stone at the micro bevel angle.

All of my rods are straight. While I can't claim to have laid them flat and perfectly parallel on a table, I would take some care to make sure they were very close. It's possible that I may be using a bit too much pressure. I will take care to refine my technique and see if I see improved results. Thanks.

It depends where you put the clamp.
I started with mine in the middle of the blades (usually something around 6") but I had the exact opposite issue to yours. The curved tip wasn't as sharp as the base of the blade which was a razor. I don't know where you clamp yours but maybe try moving it a little along the blade spine & see if you can find a sweet spot?
I've had one ever since I discovered them back in the 80's I added the other 2 stones to make the 6 stone set from the three I originally had.
As for the rod issues I periodically et a stone face down on a piece of glass or something else dead flat & tweak the rod till its fully contacting the glass over its full length.
I think I've actually had to modify it maybe twice since I got it.
If you're bending the rods in use you're pressing way, way too hard.

I usually clamp in the middle of the spine. Mine is just a folding blade, so I have been able to get the whole length of the blade without regard to exact clamping point. I'm using the three stones that came with it, though I usually only use the finer two stones unless I abused the knife in some fashion and have a visible nick or burr on the edge of the blade.

 

[BFMIN]

It will depend on which Lansky set you have, one uses the oil the other doesn't. If you have the "standard" it comes with oil & you should use it.
I've been told regular "mineral oil" or the stuff you can buy for beard trimmer blades like the Wahl.
Amazon product ASIN B017A5DXZG
If you have the "Diamond" there's no oil included because it isn't needed.
Now for the $64,000.oo opening of a can of worms:
Depending on who you talk to one school says
Oil the stones before use.
The other says :
Only afterwards to clean & prevent embedding.
Have at it!
I oil it afterwards because there's always a certain amount of oil soaked into the stone over the years.
With an 8" blade yes, you will have to do it in 2 X 4" zones.
I've successfully used it with this big bad boy with its 7 3/4" blade with the odd curved shape.
Basically I sharpen the strait(ish) edge near the handle with the clamp about 1" forward of the end of the thumb-grip, than move it to dead opposite the center of the heavy curve so I have a constant angle round the curve at the tip.