knife sharpening stone question

[BFMIN]

I have been given what I believe is a fine, hard, Arkansas stone for blade sharpening (the yellowish-gray thing next to the pouch on the left). I have & use a Lansky 5 stone set which is oiled, but this stone will be with me whenever the knife is for touch ups re edging & so on.
I've heard several conflicting opinions on wt/dry/oiled being the correct treatment for it.
I don't want to mess it up so which should I use in your experience (poll above).

 

[outrider58]

The lubricant depends on what stage/coarseness of sharpening you're on.

 

[Biggfoot44]

OP specified Fine , Hard Arkansas stone .

 

[BFMIN]

I was told the type of stone was the relevant item? are you saying it isn't?

 

[alucard0822]

Water or oil, the main purpose is to keep the stone from clogging, and a more consistent grind finish. Oil works better, being thicker, and with a stronger film, but water is cheap, and easy to rinse and scrub stones. You can always switch to oil, but once you oil the stone, you can't use water.

 

[Doco Overboard]

BF, I use a touch of Kroil on all my stones when fitting parts/sharpening knives.
Lighter fluid works too.
Both of them are pretty smelly though as you already know.

 

[4g64loser]

My Arkansas stones say oil. That's what I use if I get them out. I have migrated to diamond then ceramic with a leather strop to finish.

 

[pre64hunter]

I've been a meat cutter most of my life, made a living with a knife in my hand most of the day. I'm old school, no gimmicks, no short cuts. Other meatcutters knew not to touch my knives, my son says I'm legendary for my sharpening skills, every knife in the house and in my pocket is razor sharp meaning they will shave hair off your arm.
For the last 45 years I use a Norton tri-stone sharpening stones and Arkansas stone to finish the edge. At work we used Jet Oil which is a thin mineral oil that can be put in a spray bottle and is food safe. At home I use transmission fluid mixed with Jet oil if I have it. The stones stay clean as new. Often negligent meatcutters would sharpen their knives without cleaning them, fat clogging the stones. Water is better than nothing but oil will remove the gray metal shaving and fat from the stones, leave it for a day or so sitting in the oil bath and the scum will drain off. Most any oil will work. I've used everything from motor oil to fancy store bought honing oils. If you're not worried about food safe then use transmission fluid or whatever oil you have on hand. When fishing I use water on an Arkansas stone to sharpen my hooks, but the stone will clog eventually.

 

[BFMIN]

OK thanks.
I have the oil that came with the Lansky, which I'm told is mineral oil.
I also have "mineral oil" I bought from a custom wood maker for oiling things like wood cutting boards. Heck I even have "Blade Oil" that I got for the electric hair trimmer & beard grooming trimmer.
I think I'm good for oil!
Its probably all mineral oil anyway!

 

[smokey]

Oil for most cheap stones and water for diamond.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Oil for most cheap stones and water for diamond.

Oil for most stones , and water for diamond . ( Omitted ' cheap" )

 

[hobiecat590]

OK thanks.
I have the oil that came with the Lansky, which I'm told is mineral oil.
I also have "mineral oil I bought from a custom wood maker for oiling things like wood cutting boards. Heck I even have "Blade Oil" that I got for the electric hair trimmer & beard grooming trimmer.
I think I'm good for oil!
Its probably all mineral oil anyway!

Mineral oil should be food safe and is used on cutting boards and keep steel blades from rusting. Check the label.

I only use water on Japanese stones that I thought I could eventually learn to use properly that must be a Zen thing...

A 2" knife belt sander and 220 grit gets them all sharp quickly. I finish w/ a leather strop.

 

[willtill]

Mineral oil should be food safe and is used on cutting boards and keep steel blades from rusting. Check the label.

I only use water on Japanese stones that I thought I could eventually learn to use properly that must be a Zen thing...

A 2" knife belt sander and 220 grit gets them all sharp quickly. I finish w/ a leather strop.

Stupid question. Do you use the fleshy side of the leather strop, or the grain side; when stropping knife's on them?

 

[TI-tick]

Stupid question. Do you use the fleshy side of the leather strop, or the grain side; when stropping knife's on them?

The smooth side.
I have one for my knives and straight razor.
Got mine in CA from an Asan dude; leather mounted on a paddle. Gave me some stuff, for lack of a better word "rouge", to put on the strop before using.

 

[hobiecat590]

Yep smooth side. Get 2 of different grits. I've also heard that you can use buffing wheel rouge, but I don't.

 

[alucard0822]

I use a few methods, most pocket knives are repaired/sharpened on an Edge pro apex. I strop and sharpen some on my 1x30 belt sander with 3M trizact, fine mylar belts and a leather belt. Good stufff gets sharpened by hand on the edge pro, then finished on a powered leather belt. For quick sharpening or convex edges, I use the sander start to finish. For most I go up to 600 grit stones, then stropping gives a durable razor sharp edge with minimal work. To finish/polish/strop, I load the smooth side of the leather with green compound, and after I get the edge I want, I use the back rough side of the belt without compound to clean and buff the edge.

 

[blazing lead]

A strip of denim from my old jeans and green compound is what I tend to use. It seems to work for keeping a pretty decent working edge on my knife.