Just got back into Archery I am hooked

[Sticky]

Here is a typical spine chart. Notice it is divided by arrow type, carbon, alum, wood. The other factors are draw length, peak draw weight and arrow length.

This is critical to consistent archery. You need a properly spined arrow, you just can't go to Dicks and pick up some cool camo arrows in a box.

 

[outrider58]

Here is a typical spine chart. Notice it is divided by arrow type, carbon, alum, wood. The other factors are draw length, peak draw weight and arrow length.

This is critical to consistent archery. You need a properly spined arrow, you just can't go to Dicks and pick up some cool camo arrows in a box.

Nice Sticky.

 

[Sticky]

Thanks outrider!

As an arrow is launched it flexes and bends.. when you release the energy of the string against the back of the arrow, it is moving faster than the front (at first). The arrow literally bends and bows up as it is launched and as it flies downrange, it slowly settles out into a straight even flight.

Arrows are all rated by spine, which determines the arrow shaft flexibility for a given arrow, no matter wood, aluminum or carbon, they are all rated by spine. Longer arrows have more flexibility, shorter are stiffer. Draw weight plays in, as it is what generates the force on the arrow. More weight, needs stiffer arrows.

Your arrow should be cut to a length to allow the point to be just ahead of the riser (actually it's considered the rear of the riser, even though it's the front of the bow as we know it. Don't ask me why, there is some lame explanation for this.. lol). If you are planning to hunt, you want the end of the arrow about 1" ahead of the riser, so the broadhead doesn't get back to your bow, or hand! Extra arrow length in front of the bow is detrimental to accuracy, so proper length is important and is determined by your draw length and particular bow setup.

An overspined arrow will fly errantly. As it loads up and begins it's oscillation, it will not properly settle in as it flies and will, instead, take off on a path of the oscillation early in the cycle and fly inconsistently. An arrow that is underspined presents a risk for arrow self-destruction upon launch. DO NOT DO THIS! It is very bad when a carbon arrow, especially, explodes as you release the string. It usually ends up being impaled into your bow hand and trust me, I have seen it happen, it is quite nasty.

A properly spined arrow will slowly oscillate it's way to a straight and even flight path as it moves downrange, rotates and it will provide much more consistent accuracy than one that is not properly spined.

Carbon arrows can explode, aluminum will not. Thought this is rare, it does happen and it is hard to determine a crack at times in a carbon arrow that will eventually lead to failure.

 

[Bradp56]

2117 they were only 5 a piece from dicks.

 

[VNVGUNNER]

Thanks outrider!

As an arrow is launched it flexes and bends.. when you release the energy of the string against the back of the arrow, it is moving faster than the front (at first). The arrow literally bends and bows up as it is launched and as it flies downrange, it slowly settles out into a straight even flight.

Arrows are all rated by spine, which determines the arrow shaft flexibility for a given arrow, no matter wood, aluminum or carbon, they are all rated by spine. Longer arrows have more flexibility, shorter are stiffer. Draw weight plays in, as it is what generates the force on the arrow. More weight, needs stiffer arrows.

Your arrow should be cut to a length to allow the point to be just ahead of the riser (actually it's considered the rear of the riser, even though it's the front of the bow as we know it. Don't ask me why, there is some lame explanation for this.. lol). If you are planning to hunt, you want the end of the arrow about 1" ahead of the riser, so the broadhead doesn't get back to your bow, or hand! Extra arrow length in front of the bow is detrimental to accuracy, so proper length is important and is determined by your draw length and particular bow setup.

An overspined arrow will fly errantly. As it loads up and begins it's oscillation, it will not properly settle in as it flies and will, instead, take off on a path of the oscillation early in the cycle and fly inconsistently. An arrow that is underspined presents a risk for arrow self-destruction upon launch. DO NOT DO THIS! It is very bad when a carbon arrow, especially, explodes as you release the string. It usually ends up being impaled into your bow hand and trust me, I have seen it happen, it is quite nasty.

A properly spined arrow will slowly oscillate it's way to a straight and even flight path as it moves downrange, rotates and it will provide much more consistent accuracy than one that is not properly spined.

Carbon arrows can explode, aluminum will not. Thought this is rare, it does happen and it is hard to determine a crack at times in a carbon arrow that will eventually lead to failure.

I flex test all my arrows before I shoot, I have seen what can happen.
Archers Paradox is amazing.

 

[outrider58]

Sometimes you can tell a carbon arrow is cracked by tapping the shaft against a hard surface like the edge of a table.

 

[Overboost44]

Here is a great education on carbon and aluminum arrows.
http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_1.htm

 

[Sticky]

2117 they were only 5 a piece from dicks.

You are probably overspined with that size.. here is a spine chart for Easton alums... (for a recurve bow)

 

[Bradp56]

I bought some good. Carbon arrows they are much better. Quick question with the inserts that hold the arrow are you supposed to glue them?

 

[wilcam47]

I bought some good. Carbon arrows they are much better. Quick question with the inserts that hold the arrow are you supposed to glue them?

inserts should be glued..IMO

 

[Bradp56]

Thats what I thought I noticed it does come out easy if I have it deep in a target.

 

[wilcam47]

Thats what I thought I noticed it does come out easy if I have it deep in a target.

yeah better than losing a broadhead in the target.

 

[Bradp56]

I noticed that one of the arrows has some fraying on the end of it, I may need to sand it and glue a new insert.

 

[outrider58]

inserts should be glued..IMO

Be sure to swab out the insides with alcohol dipped Q-tip prior to gluing. It removes the carbon dust residue from sawing that interferes with the bond. I use epoxy for this.

 

[outrider58]

I noticed that one of the arrows has some fraying on the end of it, I may need to sand it and glue a new insert.

Fraying? Hmmm.

 

[Inigoes]

Fraying? Hmmm.

Sometimes that happens when somebody improperly used a pipe cutter? The pipe cutter will remove the outer wrapping, when trimming the shaft down to size.

Don't ask me how I know this

 

[SuperMag]

Don't use a wheel-type pipe cutter on carbon shafts...that damages them because it crushes the fibers.

I use a Dremel with a diamond cutoff wheel and it works perfectly. Wear safety goggles!

To glue the inserts, first clean the inside of the shaft with alcohol on a Qtip, and follow with a dry Qtip. I'm particular about this step, so I use a .22-cal cleaning rod and a patch with alcohol to clean the entire length of the carbon shaft.

Also clean the outsides of the inserts, because there is often a lubricant that remains on the aluminum from the manufacturing process. A lot of problems with inserts coming out is due to this issue.

Use epoxy, CA (superglue), or hot-melt glue to bond the insert in the shaft. Apply the stuff sparingly to the insert, start it in the end of the shaft, and then hold the shaft vertically and press it downward on the benchtop to force the shaft all the way onto the insert. Immediately follow with a wipe using a paper towel to remove any squeeze-out.

If you apply the glue to the inside of the shaft, it can pile up and run into the threads in the insert. That will prevent the point from screwing in, and you'll have to chase the threads out with a tap to clean 'em up. It also adds weight to the front of the arrow if you have excess glue in there behind the insert.

 

[Sticky]

What Supermag said! DO NOT USE A TUBING CUTTER ON CARBON SHAFTS! Whey they fail, they do so catastrophically and I have seen two stuck in the bowhand of archers... it is very ugly, quite painful and quite dangerous!

Anyone that needs shafts cut, get with me.. I can cut em for you if you need.

You can use a tubing cutter on aluminum shafts, if you have some practice and know what you are doing, but don't do it to carbons!!!!!!!!!

Agree with the glue, though they recommend against hot melt on carbons due to the heat, but I use hot melt on carbon shafts and have had no problems, but I learned how to get away with it.