Help me spend money on an AR-15 build!

[outrider58]

Ah ok I was under the impression you had used them. They say they are for their magazines. I should have just got a couple of those instead. I could file these down but I would lose their "coating" and probably end up with reliability issues.

Sorry about that. I have replaced many of my mag followers through the years and they've always improved function in troublesome magazines. I've used several different manufacturers as well including Chinese knockoffs. I wonder what makes those parts so different. Our original discussion, I think, was about whether or not to use dedicated Grendel mags when everything I read said changing followers would improve feeding reliability and would be sufficient. ASC seems to be the only ones making followers along with their mags. I guess it's too late to return them? I've seen people are 3D printing mag followers for the 6.5(ebay), but hesitate to recommend any of them.

 

[gungate]

Sorry about that. I have replaced many of my mag followers through the years and they've always improved function in troublesome magazines. I've used several different manufacturers as well including Chinese knockoffs. I wonder what makes those parts so different. Our original discussion, I think, was about whether or not to use dedicated Grendel mags when everything I read said changing followers would improve feeding reliability and would be sufficient. ASC seems to be the only ones making followers along with their mags. I guess it's too late to return them? I've seen people are 3D printing mag followers for the 6.5(ebay), but hesitate to recommend any of them.

Nah no biggie with shipping they were like $14. Probably the cheapest thing so far in this rifle build.

I wonder if I could use just regular AR .223 magazines and followers? I would think worst case the last cartridge might have feed issues.

 

[gungate]

Good news! Trigger and rifle buffer tube came in so I have collected all of the components and might try to build the 6.5 Grendel AR this weekend!

 

[gungate]

Ok got the lower built but having an issue. How exactly should this 2 stage trigger work? It doesn't seem to have a 2nd stage. I pull it back and the hammer flies. I've tried pulling as slow as I can and never has 2 stages. Help!

BTW it is a rock river arms forged lower.

 

[COACH1106]

Ok got the lower built but having an issue. How exactly should this 2 stage trigger work? It doesn't seem to have a 2nd stage. I pull it back and the hammer flies. I've tried pulling as slow as I can and never has 2 stages. Help!

BTW it is a rock river arms forged lower.

Trigger should feel very light then hit a wall, continue to pull and the final break will happen. pull very slow at first to fell for wall.

 

[gungate]

Trigger should feel very light then hit a wall, continue to pull and the final break will happen. pull very slow at first to fell for wall.

I think I just am not understand what the two stages are. I have a little bit of pull-back and then a crisp break. I was expecting to pull the trigger and hear an audible click and then pull harder and get the trigger break. Not so right?

 

[COACH1106]

I think I just am not understand what the two stages are. I have a little bit of pull-back and then a crisp break. I was expecting to pull the trigger and hear an audible click and then pull harder and get the trigger break. Not so

Have you pulled the trigger with the rifle fully assembled yet? I think it might be more clear when the weapon in fully assembled. you won't get a first click then the break you should come to a clear wall then pull for the actual break.

 

[gungate]

Have you pulled the trigger with the rifle fully assembled yet? I think it might be more clear when the weapon in fully assembled. you won't get a first click then the break you should come to a clear wall then pull for the actual break.

Yes - I did and that is what happens. Just pulls to a point, then break. I was expecting something else.

 

[outrider58]

Do not dry fire the gun while it is open.

Make sure the hammer spring is right side up.
Make sure the disconnect spring is properly inserted wide end down.
Make sure your selector is switched to fire and not safe.

 

[gungate]

Do not dry fire the gun while it is open.

Make sure the hammer spring is right side up.
Make sure the disconnect spring is properly inserted wide end down.
Make sure your selector is switched to fire and not safe.

I didn't. Just tested it with my thumb on the hammer. I dry fired it after the upper was attached. Functionally it seems to work as it should. I have built probably 5 or so lowers it is assembled correctly. I will compare the trigger side by side to some of my non-2-stage triggers today and see the difference.

 

[Trumpet]

Late to this party. I too have a Grendel I build with Odin 18" intermediate gas on a MUR upper.

Haven't shot it yet though...

Now, after reading your OP, this is what I would do. Since you are using a pre-2013 lower, I'd take off the Grendel upper and make an "un-neutered" AR. Buy another lower, build it up and put the Grendel upper on that one.

 

[gungate]

Just got the last pieces in and completed my 6.5 Grendel build. I am hoping for a chance this coming weekend to test fire it.

Lower: Rock River Arms Forged (preban)
Trigger: Rock River Arms 2-stage Match
Upper: Bear Creek Arsenal 20" SS 1:8 with 15" MLOK
Scope: Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP (Monstrum Cantilever Rings)
Stock: Magpul PRS GEN3 Precision-Adjustable Stock
Pistol Grip: Magpul MOE-Plus (with extra firing pin storage)
Fore Grip: Magpul M-LOK Angled Fore Grip
Bipod: Magpul Bipod
Magazine: ASC SS 10 round

 

[gungate]

BTW: Budget BLOWN

6.5 Grendel
Part	Cost	quantity	Total
Lower: Rock River Arms Forged (preban)	$150.00​	1​	$150.00​
Trigger: Rock River Arms 2-stage Match	$85.50​	1​	$85.50​
Lower Parts Kit	$35.00​	1​	$35.00​
Upper: Bear Creek Arsenal 20" SS 1:8 with 15" MLOK	$310.99​	1​	$310.99​
Scope: Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP	$476.99​	1​	$476.99​
Monstrum Rings	$37.05​	1​	$37.05​
Stock: Magpul PRS GEN3 Precision-Adjustable Stock	$214.27​	1​	$214.27​
Aero Precision Rifle Buffer	$41.99​	1​	$41.99​
Pistol Grip: Magpul MOE-Plus	$19.99​	1​	$19.99​
Pistol Grip Storage	$15.99​	1​	$15.99​
Extra Firing Pin	$13.99​	1​	$13.99​
Fore Grip: Magpul M-LOK Angled Fore Grip	$24.99​	1​	$24.99​
Bipod: Magpul Bipod	$116.59​	1​	$116.59​
Magazine: ASC SS 10 round	$42.97​	1​	$42.97​
Total	$1,586.31​		$1,586.31​

 

[smokey]

Ok got the lower built but having an issue. How exactly should this 2 stage trigger work? It doesn't seem to have a 2nd stage. I pull it back and the hammer flies. I've tried pulling as slow as I can and never has 2 stages. Help!

BTW it is a rock river arms forged lower.

Here's an example of a 2 stage with my larue mbt2s. Notice the initial rearward travel then it reaches the second stage, then breaks with extra weight. A single stage doesn't have that initial play, a good one stays put until it breaks annnnnn that's it. The analogy for a single stage is "breaking like a glass rod".

 

[gungate]

Here's an example of a 2 stage with my larue mbt2s. Notice the initial rearward travel then it reaches the second stage, then breaks with extra weight. A single stage doesn't have that initial play, a good one stays put until it breaks annnnnn that's it. The analogy for a single stage is "breaking like a glass rod".

Thanks for posting this is exactly how mine reacts and confirms to me that "2 stage" is more a marketing term. The first stage is just the "slop" (for lack of a better word) being taken up before you release the trigger. I do like it though it gives me a nice firm feel. It would be nice to have a pound less on the actual trigger pull. But I'll practice with this trigger and see how I like it.

 

[gungate]

Just got back from the range for a first shooting with the new 6.5 Grendel. First 3 shots at 25 yards were a 1" group @4" from where I was aiming. At 50 I was mostly consistent on paper at 3" groups. I did not attempt 100 yards. That's with a basic laser bore sighting. It then seemed to go downhill. When I got home and was cleaning everything, I saw the below on the scope mount. I assume I just need to crank tighter to keep the scope from walking. I was a little disappointed that I didn't notice this at the range. I shot 40 shots. 1 case got bent when it jammed and 1 somehow got lost we think it ejected directly into the trash bin behind us. So 38 to reload!

I was also disappointed with this scope. I had a VERY hard time seeing the damn reticle even at full-power. I am hoping it was just the battery I'll put a new one in and check that. But also had problems getting the image in focus and the reticle in focus at the same time. I think this may have more to do with my eyesight.

Finally the magazine was causing a few issue. The follower got stuck 2 times and caused jambs. I'll take it apart and lube it up hopefully that fixes that.

All in all I was pleased at how the rifle performed. LOVED the trigger!

 

[RRomig]

I have a few bear creek barrels in my shop. They had a sale so I grabbed them to see how they shot. None of them are 1.5 moa. A couple friends have bear creek rifles with the same results. Fine to shoot around the farm but they have limits. Me personally I’d change out the scope mount when funds permit. I’m not a fan of quick connect for your application. Great looking piece and when you figure out what ammo it likes it’ll be fun.

 

[smokey]

Thanks for posting this is exactly how mine reacts and confirms to me that "2 stage" is more a marketing term. The first stage is just the "slop" (for lack of a better word) being taken up before you release the trigger. I do like it though it gives me a nice firm feel. It would be nice to have a pound less on the actual trigger pull. But I'll practice with this trigger and see how I like it.

Nope, not a marketing term. It's a technical term for what the trigger is doing. In a single stage trigger, you have one pull weight, which is where the trigger breaks. So if it's a 4.5 lb trigger, you press against a stationary(ideally) trigger and then it breaks once you build up to 4.5 lbs. A 2 stage trigger will have two pull weights that add up to the weight of the trigger. So the first movement of the trigger may be 3 lbs until it reaches the second stage. At the second stage, you add the additional 1.5 lbs to get it to break. For a precision rifle, this means you can load some weight in to the trigger and when you're breaking the shot you just add the extra litttttle bit of weight. You get the "safety" of a 4.5 lb trigger with the shot responsiveness of a 1.5lb trigger in a way. Many feel by pre-loading the first stage and only adding the extra 1.5 lbs of input to break the shot, you induce less error in to the gun.

Just got back from the range for a first shooting with the new 6.5 Grendel. First 3 shots at 25 yards were a 1" group @4" from where I was aiming. At 50 I was mostly consistent on paper at 3" groups. I did not attempt 100 yards. That's with a basic laser bore sighting. It then seemed to go downhill. When I got home and was cleaning everything, I saw the below on the scope mount. I assume I just need to crank tighter to keep the scope from walking. I was a little disappointed that I didn't notice this at the range. I shot 40 shots. 1 case got bent when it jammed and 1 somehow got lost we think it ejected directly into the trash bin behind us. So 38 to reload!

I was also disappointed with this scope. I had a VERY hard time seeing the damn reticle even at full-power. I am hoping it was just the battery I'll put a new one in and check that. But also had problems getting the image in focus and the reticle in focus at the same time. I think this may have more to do with my eyesight.

Finally the magazine was causing a few issue. The follower got stuck 2 times and caused jambs. I'll take it apart and lube it up hopefully that fixes that.

All in all I was pleased at how the rifle performed. LOVED the trigger!

View attachment 409243 View attachment 409244

6MOA is way bigger than what a good 6.5 gun should give you. I'd look at that mount and see if it's worth upgrading to something better. A bad mount can take a .5moa gun and turn it in to a 6moa gun in a hurry. As far as the reticle in the scope, did you make sure to adjust it to your eye?

Once you set the reticle focus to your eye, then you can have more success with the side parallax focus. If you're starting off out of focus, you'll have a hard time with the parallax focus. I've found my vortex venom to have extremely accurate parallax adjustment on the side. I can pretty much range things within 200 yards with the focus knob.

 

[calicojack]

@gungate I have had scope mounts and rings loosen up after the first round of shooting so you may want to check the torque on those. Since you were having trouble with the scope, I would make sure it is positioned correctly for you (not too far forward or too far back). I would also postion the scope for a prone position since that seems to be the least forgiving. The settings @smokey suggest are important. And finally make sure the scope is perfectly level with the rifle.

 

[Buster Brown]

I'm interested in seeing how good this shoots when the issues get ironed out and you find a load it likes. I was playing with my BCA 7.62x39 upper today after work. Seems like every group I shot I'd have 4 shots under 3/4" @100 and then I'd get a flyer that would open the group up. I blame myself even though I was using cheap hungarian ammo. Crazy as it sounds, I'm convinced this upper will shoot under 3/4 moa when I handload for it. 1 of the 5 groups I shot had 4 shots that measured .335 then the 5th was a flyer that opened it up to 1.2. Judging by how it looked through a borescope I'm shocked at the potential.