Finally tried out my Savage 110 Tactical

[teratos]

Be careful man, that shit is addictive. Pretty soon you have a safe full of precision rifles with the glass to go with them and a bunch of support equipment too.

You shut your pretty mouth!!! I only have 2 precision rifles, and won’t let them breed! Yeah, I have bags for the bench, a spotting scope and a range finder, but that’s it!!

I dun seend it!

And so have plenty of others. I think Doc T was a little surprised when I calcd his velocity by shooting his rifle. Haha.

Yeah. That was pretty cool. I gotta get out there again. 200-300 yards is boring with the 260.

 

[4g64loser]

Do you clean chamber to muzzle?

Yes. I install my bore guide (sized for bore diameter, one size doesn't fit all!) Then I begin with a pierce point jag and wet patch to push any loose crud out. Depending on the barrel, I then go to a brush and solvent or to a solvent soaked loose patch (wet and soak).

I will go ahead and admit to using abrasive in my barrels, especially the throat area to remove carbon rings. May will call this heresy. I don't push it, I simply say that I do it. I use different procedures for different barrels as a 4400+fps varmint bullet will deposit copper in even the finest barrel and a 2650fps match bullet generally doesn't (in a good barrel).

 

[teratos]

Yes. I install my bore guide (sized for bore diameter, one size doesn't fit all!) Then I begin with a pierce point jag and wet patch to push any loose crud out. Depending on the barrel, I then go to a brush and solvent or to a solvent soaked loose patch (wet and soak).

I will go ahead and admit to using abrasive in my barrels, especially the throat area to remove carbon rings. May will call this heresy. I don't push it, I simply say that I do it. I use different procedures for different barrels as a 4400+fps varmint bullet will deposit copper in even the finest barrel and a 2650fps match bullet generally doesn't (in a good barrel).

4400 fps!! Does that shoot flat out to 800 meters?

 

[4g64loser]

You shut your pretty mouth!!! I only have 2 precision rifles, and won’t let them breed! Yeah, I have bags for the bench, a spotting scope and a range finder, but that’s it!!

Yeah. That was pretty cool. I gotta get out there again. 200-300 yards is boring with the 260.

Glad you like my pretty mouth. Flattery won't get me to go in the connex, though. And I'm definitely not teaching any private classes where your daughter is parking!

As you are well aware, my precision rifles are "uncut" and breed prolifically. I need to have you give them a vasectomy or sell some into slavery in somebody else's gun locker. You definitely need to make it out again, so does SG. Chicken is a regular.

 

[4g64loser]

4400 fps!! Does that shoot flat out to 800 meters?

Nope. Gasses out fast. Zeroed at 100, that load needs .25moa (on click) of vertical adjustment at 225yds. But it's pretty much ass past 500yds. I've killed a deer and more than a few groundhogs back when I had places to hunt with that load at ranges over 500 but because of energy loss the conditions must be favorable. It printed a 3.5" group at 500 on a calm day out of the first 22-250ai barrel I had done.

I like the 40s. They rarely exit the animal under 300. Death is swift and humane. Background liabilities are minimized.

 

[brianns]

I will go ahead and admit to using abrasive in my barrels, especially the throat area to remove carbon rings. May will call this heresy. I don't push it, I simply say that I do it.

Geez, and I thought you were going to be a real precision rifle snob.

Flattery won't get me to go in the connex, though.

Connex. Oh Lord!

I baby my stuff by trying to avoid rods and attachments hitting the barrel. So I usualy will watch the rod as it leaves the muzzle to make sure it comes out centered whether its got a jag, patch holder, or brush on it. I usually start with a wet patch to lubricate whatever is in the barrel to begin with and get a little soak going on. Then I'll work in brushes as needed.

 

[4g64loser]

Geez, and I thought you were going to be a real precision rifle snob.


Connex. Oh Lord!

I baby my stuff by trying to avoid rods and attachments hitting the barrel. So I usualy will watch the rod as it leaves the muzzle to make sure it comes out centered whether its got a jag, patch holder, or brush on it. I usually start with a wet patch to lubricate whatever is in the barrel to begin with and get a little soak going on. Then I'll work in brushes as needed.

Hahaha. When tony boyer starts losing or someone else manages to surpass his hall of fame points, I'll consider abrasives obsolete.

A good CF or coated rod (inspect the coating regularly) isn't going to damage the bore with linear contact. It's the angular contact (usually with the throat area) that will cause you trouble.

The connex thing is a running joke about Doc T. It's where all the magic happens.

 

[teratos]

The connex thing is a running joke about Doc T. It's where all the magic happens.

 

[brianns]

View attachment 399558

That's cool. I know we're regularly disturbed and at the same time interestingly stimulated by Doc.

 

[5string]

I’ve been saving it to put on a higher magnification/ more featured scope on it and go from there with it. But I’m just not wanting to spend the money on that right now. I’ve had the rifle almost two years! So I put this Bushnell Engage 3x9 onto it I had gotten more recently and had laying around. I had taken it off of another rifle project to switch mounts, etc. but got sidetracked.

Savage 110 Tactical 6.5 Creedmoor, 140g Hornady Match. I was able to dial it in pretty good at 300 yds.
View attachment 398943
The stock has interchangeable comb and length of pull inserts. That’s fairly cool but the securement isn’t that great. I might need to look into that some more at another time.
View attachment 398944

Do not look inside the barrel with a bore scope. Most look like a railroad track.

 

[4g64loser]

Do not look inside the barrel with a bore scope. Most look like a railroad track.

Some you don't even need the scope, just a flashlight or a mirror. Haha. It can get pretty ugly in some factory barrels. That's why they foul so quick and never seem to come clean.

 

[brianns]

A good CF or coated rod (inspect the coating regularly) isn't going to damage the bore with linear contact. It's the angular contact (usually with the throat area) that will cause you trouble.

Maybe one day I’ll know who Tony Boyer is but a I got a ways to go.

I saw what might be a Tipton Rod where you can move the handle along the rod. I liked that idea. But I don’t want to buy a nice rod and cut the handle off. So I figure, I’ll keep looking. I don’t like the idea of pushing the rod through and then pulling it backwards (even with removing the patch or attachments)

 

[4g64loser]

Mr boyer is the leading Aggregate benchrest hall of famer.

I draw the rods back through the bore. Maybe not perfect but that's what I do.

 

[brianns]

Here’s a pull through I made from .080 trimmer line. I fold enough line ensuring a slot will be there. I hit it lightly with a propane torch to set the bend. Then I grasp the end in a set of pliers to sort of lock the loop shape. I put the other long ends in a vice together leaving enough to get plenty of twists. Then I twist the pliers being careful to hold the slotted end tightly. You have to stretch the section with the twists to keep it straight before hitting that area with light blasts of the torch. The section being twisted will also want to coil up so you need to stretch it to stay straight. You don’t want to over heat either because it melts away or maybe makes the nylon break down or get brittle.

The shape seems to stay put when I see it come out of the muzzle. The next one I make may have 2 full lengths so I can glue together for more rigidity for easier feeding.

 

[4g64loser]

Here’s a pull through I made from .080 trimmer line. I fold enough line ensuring a slot will be there. I hit it lightly with a propane torch to set the bend. Then I grasp the end in a set of pliers to sort of lock the loop shape. I put the other long ends in a vice together leaving enough to get plenty of twists. Then I twist the pliers being careful to hold the slotted end tightly. You have to stretch the section with the twists to keep it straight before hitting that area with light blasts of the torch. The section being twisted will also want to coil up so you need to stretch it to stay straight. You don’t want to over heat either because it melts away or maybe makes the nylon break down or get brittle.
View attachment 399577
The shape seems to stay put when I see it come out of the muzzle. The next one I make may have 2 full lengths so I can glue together for more rigidity for easier feeding.

Cool loop jag tool.

I am stuck on pierce point jags that keep the patch tight to the bore for actually removing fouling. I do use a parker hale type jag (patch wraps around it) for distributing solvent if I'm going to soak a barrel.

 

[brianns]

Cool loop jag tool.

I am stuck on pierce point jags that keep the patch tight to the bore for actually removing fouling. I do use a parker hale type jag (patch wraps around it) for distributing solvent if I'm going to soak a barrel.

Thanks! It's a pull through loop though. The other end is just the loose end I put in through the chamber until it comes out the muzzle to be pulled. I like jags too but sometimes I wonder if they ride the lands too hard and don't create even pressure relative to the grooves. I sort of take it on faith that the correct size jag with a correct size patch ought to protect against the metal on metal contact. Plastic jags are less aggressive too I guess. I mostly use patches and brushes.

 

[4g64loser]

Thanks! It's a pull through loop though. The other end is just the loose end I put in through the chamber until it comes out the muzzle to be pulled. I like jags too but sometimes I wonder if they ride the lands too hard and don't create even pressure relative to the grooves. I sort of take it on faith that the correct size jag with a correct size patch ought to protect against the metal on metal contact. Plastic jags are less aggressive too I guess. I mostly use patches and brushes.

I actually cut my own patches and in some cases use the"wrong" pierce point jag. In a 224 bore, I find bunching issues with the patches so I cut 30cal patches into quarters. Play with your tools til you find what works best. I have electrical tape containers full of patches for specific bores. I even keep a gladware tub on the shelf with large shotgun patches in it, soaked in an EDTA solution. **** for cleaning hard carbon off of suppressor adapters and brakes. One of these days, I'll document using it to clean a barrel for the whole life of the barrel and compare that to more conventional methods in the same chambering. See if it ruins the barrel.

As for jags harming rifling (not talking about the angular contact in the throat), if an all copper bullet doesn't jack it up, obdurated in the grooves at mach three, a brass jag with cotton over it isn't going to harm it a bit.