Compound Bow Maintenance/Tuning

[HokieKev]

Hi All,

I just purchased a compound bow (a Bowtech Carbon Knight) that I plan to hunt with. I am having the shop help setup and tune the bow initially but I'd like to learn more about maintenance and tuning to do it myself eventually. I don't actually know anything about "paper tuning".

For example, I'm going to have the bow setup initially for my 28 inch draw and 50 pounds. Based on an online chart the arrow length will need to be 29 inches. I'll probably shoot it this way for a season but, depending on how well it works, I might bump it to 60 pounds draw. I'd need to adjust arrow length to 28 inches (or buy new arrows) and make sure the bow is tuned well and sighted in after adjustments.

Also, I've heard people say they get their bow tuned every year at the shop even if they are not making changes. Would this be hard to do yourself? Do you need to replace strings each year? Any pointers to information online or books/DVDs would be appreciated.

 

[outrider58]

Hi All,

I just purchased a compound bow (a Bowtech Carbon Knight) that I plan to hunt with. I am having the shop help setup and tune the bow initially but I'd like to learn more about maintenance and tuning to do it myself eventually. I don't actually know anything about "paper tuning".

For example, I'm going to have the bow setup initially for my 28 inch draw and 50 pounds. Based on an online chart the arrow length will need to be 29 inches. I'll probably shoot it this way for a season but, depending on how well it works, I might bump it to 60 pounds draw. I'd need to adjust arrow length to 28 inches (or buy new arrows) and make sure the bow is tuned well and sighted in after adjustments.

Also, I've heard people say they get their bow tuned every year at the shop even if they are not making changes. Would this be hard to do yourself? Do you need to replace strings each year? Any pointers to information online or books/DVDs would be appreciated.

For now, just keep your string waxed. Paper tuning is a good place to start but it should not be the last word. Once you are capable of shooting longer distances say, 40 to 50 yards (and you do want to be able to do this), you will need to start watching you arrow's flight. Does it tail up and down? Side to side. These are the issues that may need to be fine tuned out later. Not to worry though, if things get out of whack, just take it back to the pro for straightening out till you learn yourself. One thing I would add if you're new to archery, follow through is important. Don't lower your bow until your arrow hits its target. Good luck and enjoy the new bow.

 

[mark71211]

What shop did you take it to to get it tuned up and how long till you get it back cause of the time of year.

 

[HokieKev]

I've been shooting an old Bear Kodiak Magnum 45# recurve, and I've been trying to think about my anchor point and the follow through - I'd say that I still have some work to do. But I am hoping that some of my practice with the recurve will carry over to the compound.

 

[HokieKev]

What shop did you take it to to get it tuned up and how long till you get it back cause of the time of year.

I went to the shop Tuesday morning and they said that they hoped to have it setup for me by Friday or Saturday. I know that is was in the queue and there were several bows ahead of me.

I decided to choose a shop relatively close me me - this shop is in Glen Burnie. It's called "Macrotech".

Reviews on the internet for this place are mixed. They were very professional and took some time with me to double check my draw length and to let me shoot the bow in the small indoor range that they have so I could see how it felt. I am sure I could have gotten a better bargain elsewhere but decided since this was my first compound I would like to lean on a shop for advice until I get in a groove.

I spent quite a bit of time figuring out draw length, arrow spines and so forth with my recurve on my own. I decided I wanted to get the compound bow set up efficiently and properly if I was going to get sufficient time to practice and really hunt with it this season.

 

[mark71211]

That's Len and he is a love him or hate him kind of guy. The thing that guys don't like about him is that he is not shy and will tell you what is on his mind, even if you want to hear it or not. I have gotten all of my bow and archery stuff from there and will keep on doing it in the future cause he has taking care of me plenty of times.

 

[MDMOUNTAINEER]

There is very little crossover from true traditional shooting and shooting a compound. Each have their own intracacies, fundamentals, and technique. You'll find that most shooters pick one or the other as their "primary" archery discipline. Some compound shooters will dabble in traditional shooting, but you'll find very few devoted traditional shooters that "dabble" in compound shooting.

You will hear of purported disparity between traditional and compound shooters, with some hardcore traditionalists that minimize the skill required for compound archery, though sometimes I feel that it may be a manifestation of some compound shooters own insecurity. Regardless, both are very respectable disciplines. Both require a huge time commitment to attain proficiency.

In my youth, I started with a traditional bow and quickly "graduated" to a compound. For 15 years or so, all I hunted with was a bow. The first 10 years was exclusively with a compound, then I began to "dabble" in traditional. Over the last 5 years or better I've gone strictly traditional. Having traded or sold all of my very expensive compounds, I have a nice selection of takedown and one-piece longbows, flatbows, self-bows, and recurves. I have found that, for me, the lack of technology/gadgetry is more holistic. There is power in the simplicity and the accomplishment of honing my skills in making the bow an extension of myself. That's not to say I now look down my nose at compound shooters. I've just come full-circle back to my (and archery's) roots. It works for me.

As for learning to tune a bow, it's definitely part science and part art. With traditional shooting, it leans more towards "art". Paper-tuning is a very valuable tool, when used and understood in the proper context. Much more valuable (in my opinion) than "Laser-tuning" and some of the other stuff that's out there.

For relatively little money, you can get a portable press, some string wax, nock pliers, a bow square, a serving tool, and other minor sundries that will make bow mechanics a possibility at home. I suggest that you have a reputable shop do most of your work for the time being. Ask questions (lots of questions). Watch HOW they do things and ask WHY. Any decent shop with good staff will be happy to give you tips. Len can be abrasive. I've known him for years. He is a legend, arguably (mostly) in his own mind. He is very knowledgeable, don't get me wrong. Though he can either be, or be perceived as, arrogant. That is up to you to decide. If you want specific pointers, you may pm me and I can give you my phone number. I'd be happy to chat more in-depth about the in's and out's and point you in the right direction when needed. Welcome to the archery community. Lotsa good folks, not unlike the firearm community.

 

[outrider58]

I've been shooting an old Bear Kodiak Magnum 45# recurve, and I've been trying to think about my anchor point and the follow through - I'd say that I still have some work to do. But I am hoping that some of my practice with the recurve will carry over to the compound.

The biggest dif between recurve and compound shooting mechanics is with recurve, you hold the bow at a cant generaly. Where as compound bow must be held perfectly vertical. That's why most modern bow sights come with a level built in to them. I do recommend using a mechanical release aid to get the full potential out of your new bow.

 

[HokieKev]

The biggest dif between recurve and compound shooting mechanics is with recurve, you hold the bow at a cant generaly. Where as compound bow must be held perfectly vertical. That's why most modern bow sights come with a level built in to them. I do recommend using a mechanical release aid to get the full potential out of your new bow.

I am getting a release with the compound. With the recurve I use a tab.

 

[HokieKev]

In my youth, I started with a traditional bow and quickly "graduated" to a compound. For 15 years or so, all I hunted with was a bow. The first 10 years was exclusively with a compound, then I began to "dabble" in traditional. Over the last 5 years or better I've gone strictly traditional. Having traded or sold all of my very expensive compounds, I have a nice selection of takedown and one-piece longbows, flatbows, self-bows, and recurves. I have found that, for me, the lack of technology/gadgetry is more holistic. There is power in the simplicity and the accomplishment of honing my skills in making the bow an extension of myself. That's not to say I now look down my nose at compound shooters. I've just come full-circle back to my (and archery's) roots. It works for me.

There is something really beautiful about shooting a recurve. It is like throwing a football/basketball/baseball. If you do it a few thousand times, with a football for example, you can hit a running target perfectly. You don't stop to calculate the yardage, you don't carefully align a site - it is natural, dynamic and fluid. I definitely understand the appeal of traditional archery.

That said, I had a ton of fun improving my shooting skills at Appleseed events - by mastering breathing, aligning the sites and gradually over months improving my skills. I view the compound bow as somewhat more similar to shooting. There are still skills - they are just different skills. There is still the blend of what the machine can do and what the person can do and the delicate interplay between the two. ;-)

 

[mark71211]

I am getting a release with the compound. With the recurve I use a tab.

Don't just get a release based in how cheap it is. When you go to pick up your bow ask Len if you can try out a bunch of different releases. Get one that feels good to you.

 

[highwayheat]

You do not need to change the arrows unless increasing the draw weight causes the arrow not to have enough spine or you increase you draw length. Too little spine is dangerous and is very close to a dry fire situation. Too much spine and you will more than likely be okay. Some people actually find that a higher spine than recommended on manufacturers arrow charts shoots better out of their bow. To short of a draw length and you risk the arrow coming off the rest, hitting the riser, and shattering into your hand. Definitely keep arrows at least one inch longer than draw length if using a fixed blade broadhead. A safe rule of thumb on arrow weight is at least 5 grains for every pound of draw weight. As far as a simple tune, that can be done yourself. Visit the link below for a basic and helpful tuning videos.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1E962AFF7024E811