Case lube - what am I doing wrong.

[BradMacc82]

Also need to hit the inside of the case on bottle neck cartridges.

^^^This especially.

 

[pre64hunter]

I've been using Imperial case lube for about 45 years, nothing else, except graphite for the necks. It works so well I don't understand why there is other stuff.
A little smudge on your finger will do several cases. I'll use a bigger smudge when forming cases like a 30 Herrett from 30-30, 40-65 from 45-70, 222 from 223.
I bought a little tin when it first came out, said a lifetime supply, I'm still using the original tin. I honestly thought everything else would become obsolete.
Some of my dies have carbide expander balls from Redding that work well for the necks. If the expander ball doesn't run through the neck easily it can stretch the should up.

Imperial Case Sizing Wax 2oz White

Imperial Sizing Die wax is the original non-liquid sizing die lube. One 2 oz tin will full length resize several thousand cases. Makes forming of cases...

www.midwayusa.com

 

[85MikeTPI]

I've been using Imperial case lube for about 45 years, nothing else, except graphite for the necks. It works so well I don't understand why there is other stuff.
A little smudge on your finger will do several cases. I'll use a bigger smudge when forming cases like a 30 Herrett from 30-30, 40-65 from 45-70, 222 from 223.
I bought a little tin when it first came out, said a lifetime supply, I'm still using the original tin. I honestly thought everything else would become obsolete.
Some of my dies have carbide expander balls from Redding that work well for the necks. If the expander ball doesn't run through the neck easily it can stretch the should up.

Imperial Case Sizing Wax 2oz White

Imperial Sizing Die wax is the original non-liquid sizing die lube. One 2 oz tin will full length resize several thousand cases. Makes forming of cases...

www.midwayusa.com

I also use this for all my low production, high precision loads, but can't say it's the only one to use. I dump buckets of brass into my Lee APP case loader, it's all be lanolin sprayed and dried in a Gallon baggie as described. Doing thousands of those with finger smudges would be insane.. So I agree with your choice, I disagree with your absolute.

 

[John from MD]

I am looking to tap into the collective wisdom hear on MDS in regards to sticking cases and case lube.
1) I have used Hornady One shot with no issue on 300 blk and 6.5 Creedmore cases. (I know, I know how much people hate it).

2) When I tried to do volume resizing for 223 and 30-06 with both Hornady and RCBS dies One Shot failed miserably. Since, I was resizing 100s of cases, I tried the spray one lanolin method. That worked a little bit better than the One Shot, I ended up resorting to using RCBS case lube on a lube pad and finished up the cases without more stuck cases, but it was a PITA to roll the cases out.

So, I now have a new toy/project with loading for a 6mm ARC. I have new Hornady dies that I degreesed, cleaned, and lubed. I decided since I was doing a relatively low volume of cases to use the old standard Imperial sizing wax. When forming new Starline 6.5 Grendel cases into 6mm ARC it was like butter with no issue. So, I move on to some once fired Hornady 6mm ARC brass and try to size them. The cases didn’t get stuck, however, they were hard to size and the friction was immense. So, I finished off the batch with the RCBS lube on the pad. Just to see what happens, I took a few case and sprayed them with One Shot, and they sized with slightly more resistance than the RCBS lube with no issues. Now, for the sake of science, I tried the sizing wax again. The cases started getting sticky again. I didn’t try the Lanolin (too much of a mess)…

So am I crazy or has someone else had similar issues.

When case forming, I anneal the cases first and it makes the task much easier. I use my own mix of alcohol and wire conduit lube and never have a problem with sticking.

 

[pre64hunter]

I also use this for all my low production, high precision loads, but can't say it's the only one to use. I dump buckets of brass into my Lee APP case loader, it's all be lanolin sprayed and dried in a Gallon baggie as described. Doing thousands of those with finger smudges would be insane.. So I agree with your choice, I disagree with your absolute.

Yes, I'll agree. I don't do much high production loading except for handguns and mine are all straight wall so I use carbide dies for them.
I load primarily for accuracy and worry about the lube getting inside the neck creating inconsistent neck tension.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

What do you guys use to clean your dies with?

 

[Uncle Duke]

I like Imperial also, but I've had good luck with a small tub of Hornady Unique as well for stuff I don't load in volume. They both go a long way! I think I've had the Hornady Unique since Lincoln was President. I can't seem to use it up!

 

[4g64loser]

What do you guys use to clean your dies with?

Usually isopropyl alcohol to remove lanolin. Ethyl alcohol (think everclear) will cut case wax but I rarely need to do that. Any excess redding wax wipes right off the bushing, which is removable anyway. If I use the redding wax in a body die, a twisted up paper towel or shop rag gets any excess out easily.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Usually isopropyl alcohol to remove lanolin. Ethyl alcohol (think everclear) will cut case wax but I rarely need to do that. Any excess redding wax wipes right off the bushing, which is removable anyway. If I use the redding wax in a body die, a twisted up paper towel or shop rag gets any excess out easily.

Thanks, yeah I suspected alcohol was the trick. I am inclined to PM you. Much appreciate the above reply.

 

[lazarus]

WRT the once fired ARC brass vs new grendel-->>>arc conversion, the new stuff is much softer. Especially starline (and federal, for that matter).

I'm pretty sure you have a scope; check the inside of your die bodies. Especially your 223 and 3006 dies. I have diagnosed some issues for guys in the last couple of years to REALLY unacceptable interior finish. Lee, hornady, and rcbs have all flunked lunch. All except rcbs blew smoke and excuses/stories when called out on it. Rcbs replaced the die body. But took their time. OLD lee and rcbs dies tended to be of better finish quality.

On the lube subject: there are a lot of variables in your experiment. One thing I learned (the hard way) was to clean dies a d bushings completely when switching lube type. I now ONLY use redding die wax in my bushing dies and (except for wildcat case forming) ONLY use Dillon lube (lanolin) in my full length dies. A lot of cussing and a lathe were involved in fixing my screwup so I could learn that lesson.

Once (or many) fired brass is going to be harder than factory new. The more its sized or fired, the harder it gets. That is why the cases crack if you don't periodically anneal them (every 3-5 firings? I've heard guys go 10 or more without problems sometimes depending on the cartridge, chamber, load, etc.)

 

[atblis]

Lanolin is interesting as the wax portion of it is harder to dissolve than I would have thought. I believe Isopropyl is a better solvent than Ethanol. Acetone requires a little heat in my experience. Ethyl Acetate is supposedly good, but I haven’t gotten around to trying it yet.

Naphthalene is the best solvent I’ve found for the Redding case lube. It works nicely to thin it facilitating a quicker more even application to cases.

 

[4g64loser]

Once (or many) fired brass is going to be harder than factory new. The more its sized or fired, the harder it gets. That is why the cases crack if you don't periodically anneal them (every 3-5 firings? I've heard guys go 10 or more without problems sometimes depending on the cartridge, chamber, load, etc.)

I neck turn all my good stuff and size externally only (bushing, no expander) so I anneal every firing. Used to do every other but had to swap bushings one thou smaller to maintain same neck tension and velocity so now I just burn em every firing.

 

[4g64loser]

Lanolin is interesting as the wax portion of it is harder to dissolve than I would have thought. I believe Isopropyl is a better solvent than Ethanol. Acetone requires a little heat in my experience. Ethyl Acetate is supposedly good, but I haven’t gotten around to trying it yet.

Naphthalene is the best solvent I’ve found for the Redding case lube. It works nicely to thin it facilitating a quicker more even application to cases.

I've never thinned redding die wax as I've never applied it any way but with fingers. That's a good tidbit on the naptha.

I've found ethyl alcohol works better to remove die wax buildup and isopropyl alcohol works better for lanolin but I won't claim to be a chemical engineer. It's based on relatively limited testing; as I mentioned up thread I don't tend to use different lubes in the same die so absolute removal prior to changeover isn't a problem I face often.

 

[SlugCaster]

Case Lube is about stupid simple. Get a 28 or 32 ounce Spray Bottle. Add 2 Oz Lanolin and fill it up with 91% or 97% alcohol. Jazz it up by adding a few drops of Food Coloring to the bottle and make the Lube as pretty as them cutiepie Powdercoated Bullets. Shake to mix it all together, spray a few shots of the Lube on the Brass in a big bowl, and start sizing. You do not have to wait for the Alcohol to evaporate unless your Die doesn't have a vent hole. After you size the Brass, put a Colander in a large bowl full of Alcohol, and drop the Brass in the Colander. The Lube will wash off while you Size the rest of your Brass. Once the Brass has all been Sized, simply drain the Brass in the Colander and pour the Brass out on a towel to dry. At this point I then run my Brass through the Cleaner using fine grit Walnut with a spray of Alcohol mixed with Gel Gloss and this cleans off any Lube Residue. Clean your Die by letting it soak a minute in the Colander of Alcohol.

 

[85MikeTPI]

Case Lube is about stupid simple. Get a 28 or 32 ounce Spray Bottle. Add 2 Oz Lanolin and fill it up with 91% or 97% alcohol. Jazz it up by adding a few drops of Food Coloring to the bottle and make the Lube as pretty as them cutiepie Powdercoated Bullets. Shake to mix it all together, spray a few shots of the Lube on the Brass in a big bowl, and start sizing. You do not have to wait for the Alcohol to evaporate unless your Die doesn't have a vent hole. After you size the Brass, put a Colander in a large bowl full of Alcohol, and drop the Brass in the Colander. The Lube will wash off while you Size the rest of your Brass. Once the Brass has all been Sized, simply drain the Brass in the Colander and pour the Brass out on a towel to dry. At this point I then run my Brass through the Cleaner using fine grit Walnut with a spray of Alcohol mixed with Gel Gloss and this cleans off any Lube Residue. Clean your Die by letting it soak a minute in the Colander of Alcohol.

Let me guess, you’re an alcohol salesman?

 

[SlugCaster]

Yes. I like to see guys spend $3.00 and 28 Ounce bottle of something instead of $10.00 on an 8 Oz Bottle. It ain't hard.

 

[km04]

Another one here for the lanolin alcohol mix. I use Heet, in the red bottle. Mix it in a spray bottle. I put my cases in a loading block and spray them on all sides. This has worked best for me, using Lee dies. Only issue I have ever had was primers that didn't want to pop out.

 

[BFMIN]

Same here, but I use the yellow bottle. Mainly because I usually have some lying about for another use. For this use I don't think it matters which you use.

 

[gungate]

To avoid opening a new post...... Can I just put my brass in a ziplock bag, spray in a healthy amount of lube like OneShot, mix it up and be fine?

 

[Archeryrob]

That is what I do when sizing cases.