Auto Ordnance 1911 - Broken?

[gungate]

I was cleaning my 1911 today and discovered the below. I don't think this is supposed to be like this. Correct? It doesn't seem to affect it functionally but I'll take it to a gunsmith before I use it again if it is broken. Thoughts?

 

[TheOriginalMexicanBob]

Definitely broken. You should get a new ejector fitted before the present one moves the wrong way and causes malfunctions.

 

[inkd]

Definitely broken. You need to get a new one fitted, for sure.

 

[gungate]

Cool thanks I found and ordered an OEM ejector from Auto Ordnance. $7 plus $12 for shipping. Whatever. I think I can do this myself looks like it just has a pin where that broken piece goes in. Hopefully once I drive the pin out that broken part comes off.

 

[IronEye]

The new part will need to be fitted. You will need to file or cut a notch in the correct location on the front ejector projection so that you can put the retaining pin back in.
I'm sure you can find youtube videos that will illustrate the procedure.
I am not a gunsmith.

 

[John from MD]

It was a cheap MIM part. You would be better off putting a machined ejector in. It is more expensive but it won't break.

1911 Ejector, .45 ACP, Stainless, Fully Machined

Nighthawk Custom’s FM Series 1911 ejectors have been optimized with an extended nose for positive and reliable ejection.

www.nighthawkcustom.com

 

[gungate]

Well shit now I am thinking I'll just take it to my local gunsmith. I thought it would be a straight swap and the only hard part getting the old pieces out.

 

[303_enfield]

You can do it with a file. Watch youtube and go slow. Some manufactures use locktite now.

 

[IronEye]

You can run the proper sized drill bit in from the right side. This can be done to mark the place to file or, if you're careful, to drill the retaining groove directly.

 

[John from MD]

You can do it with a file. Watch youtube and go slow. Some manufactures use locktite now.

A small jewelers file (found on amazon) will do it. Just position the ejector in its holes and then put the tip of the file through the cross pin hole and nick the leg a little so you can see where to file. Take the ejector off and file a little and check fit, file a little and check fit. Once it is deep enough to where the pin will go in, put a little locktite on the pin and drift it in. Make sure it is below the groove where the slide rail rides and you are done.

 

[John from MD]

You can run the proper sized drill bit in from the right side. This can be done to mark the place to file or, if you're careful, to drill the retaining groove directly.

Respectfully, I don't think the OP is skilled enough to run a 1/16 and not break it in this application. I am skilled at doing it and I don't do it that way either.

 

[Tower43]

Alternatively, check to see if say the RIA extractor fits, it's pre slotted for the retaining pin, no filing required

 

[Tower43]

https://advancedtactical.com/1911-fs-45-acp-ejector-black/

 

[IronEye]

Respectfully, I don't think the OP is skilled enough to run a 1/16 and not break it in this application. I am skilled at doing it and I don't do it that way either.

I agree that a broken drill bit in the hole would definitely exacerbate the problem. But the good news is that a broken bit could be punched back out from the other side.

Here's a detailed explanation of the process: 1911 ejector fitting and tuning

Is there more to it than is in the video? I can't say, I'm still not a gunsmith even though I do have a Dremel and JBWeld.

I recently had a Ruger LW Commander with a very loose ejector. It was also throwing empties at my head. Since it was new in July and the frame is aluminum I sent it back to let the factory fix it.

 

[gungate]

Respectfully, I don't think the OP is skilled enough to run a 1/16 and not break it in this application. I am skilled at doing it and I don't do it that way either.

If this whole process is more than driving the existing drift pin out and putting it back in, I'll probably let a gunsmith handle it. I am hoping once the pin is driven out the broken part will come out without drilling. I don't want to bugger up the frame to save a couple bucks but learning is good too. I do have the ability to drill out the old piece (and a drill press) but I assume it is hardened and I do not have hardened/carbide drill bits to use.

I did order that stainless extractor listed above so if I can get that one to fit instead of the OEM I'll go with that.

What would a gunsmith charge for this? Under $100?

 

[John from MD]

If this whole process is more than driving the existing drift pin out and putting it back in, I'll probably let a gunsmith handle it. I am hoping once the pin is driven out the broken part will come out without drilling. I don't want to bugger up the frame to save a couple bucks but learning is good too. I do have the ability to drill out the old piece (and a drill press) but I assume it is hardened and I do not have hardened/carbide drill bits to use.

I did order that stainless extractor listed above so if I can get that one to fit instead of the OEM I'll go with that.

What would a gunsmith charge for this? Under $100?

The leg is not hardened so you can drill it out easily. Sometimes as you drill, it will spin and come out as you raise the bit.

 

[gungate]

I agree that a broken drill bit in the hole would definitely exacerbate the problem. But the good news is that a broken bit could be punched back out from the other side.

Here's a detailed explanation of the process: 1911 ejector fitting and tuning

Is there more to it than is in the video? I can't say, I'm still not a gunsmith even though I do have a Dremel and JBWeld.

I recently had a Ruger LW Commander with a very loose ejector. It was also throwing empties at my head. Since it was new in July and the frame is aluminum I sent it back to let the factory fix it.

That video is great thanks!

 

[Magnumite]

If you take it to a smith, OP, specify a machine steel ejector. EGW comes to mind.

 

[gungate]

I got both parts in. The OEM and the upgrade. For sure the upgrade part will need a lot of fitting. I am thinking maybe I will try it. They are fairly different I assume I can get the silver part to work though since the gun is "milspec".

 

[John from MD]

The stainless version is set up default to a .45 ACP cartridge. To make it into a 9x19 cartridge, you need to file down the nose of the ejector. If your broken ejector was ejecting at the 3 to 4 oclock position, then I would file it to the shape of the broken ejector.

If you are unhappy about how it is ejecting, then I would take half the nose off and work down from there to see what works for your gun. You can file it in place if you make the side of the file facing the frame "safe" and put some tape on the frame.