Adding "T" to buried black poly water line

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • Slackdaddy

    My pronouns: Iva/Bigun
    Jan 1, 2019
    5,974
    Figured this was the best group to ask in.
    I have a 3/4" 200psi black poly water line from the house to a yard bib.
    It is buried at 28-30" deep.
    I want to add a branch line about mid span for the garden.

    I have the proper S.S. 3/4" barbed "T" and S.S. clamps. And I know all about heating the pipe ends with hot water, etc.

    Question,, any easy way to get the "t" in both pipe ends after exposing the pipe and cutting about 3/4" out of it where the T is going??
    It's not like I am going to have a ton of slack to flex the pipe up and manipulate it onto the barbs?
     

    Dsnyder

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 23, 2015
    409
    Baltimore
    Screenshot_20240414-084230_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20240414-084230_Chrome.jpg I have used these with good results. No need to cut or dig a big hole.
     

    BossmanPJ

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 22, 2013
    7,059
    Cecil County
    This is the way. I am a licensed water distribution operator by trade. We use these on CTS black pipe. Tell the supply house you need a brass T compression fitting and 3 stainless steel inserts for your 3/4 pipe. Put the inserts in the pipe, measure carefully to allow both existing sides of the pipe to be inserted into the fitting and snug down the nuts. Add new pipe to other side and do the same. Be careful not to dick the gaskets up inside. If they fall out it is ok, just put them back how they were.

    I have put hundreds in the ground and they do not leak. A little tip…. Take the compression nuts off of the fitting and slide them on to your pipes first. Then insert the pipe into the fitting and slide your nuts back to the fitting. Makes it a lot easier to measure correctly and you aren’t trying to shove pipe through your gaskets.
     

    tailboardtech

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 16, 2011
    1,319
    upperco
    pack joint is the easiest and easy way I alway get the barbs in is just lightly heat the plastic with a map torch and then quench it with water once the barb is in
     

    Slackdaddy

    My pronouns: Iva/Bigun
    Jan 1, 2019
    5,974
    Thanks,, I did not think about a pack joint,, I just installed one on a CTS well line.

    Do they make pack joints for IPS,, my Black poly is def 3/4 IPS
     

    Slackdaddy

    My pronouns: Iva/Bigun
    Jan 1, 2019
    5,974
    pack joint is the easiest and easy way I alway get the barbs in is just lightly heat the plastic with a map torch and then quench it with water once the barb is in
    Lost me,, The pack joint does not have a barb, they have a stiffener that is smooth and taps in.
     

    Slackdaddy

    My pronouns: Iva/Bigun
    Jan 1, 2019
    5,974
    This is the way. I am a licensed water distribution operator by trade. We use these on CTS black pipe. Tell the supply house you need a brass T compression fitting and 3 stainless steel inserts for your 3/4 pipe. Put the inserts in the pipe, measure carefully to allow both existing sides of the pipe to be inserted into the fitting and snug down the nuts. Add new pipe to other side and do the same. Be careful not to dick the gaskets up inside. If they fall out it is ok, just put them back how they were.

    I have put hundreds in the ground and they do not leak. A little tip…. Take the compression nuts off of the fitting and slide them on to your pipes first. Then insert the pipe into the fitting and slide your nuts back to the fitting. Makes it a lot easier to measure correctly and you aren’t trying to shove pipe through your gaskets.
    Dumb question,, since the pack joint seals with a tapered rubber "o-ring" on the outside of the pipe, and the pipe/tubing is held with the built in "Clamp" on the exterior of the pipe/tubing,,, It works fine for CTS tubing,, since the ext dia is constant.
    How does that work with IPS poly,, where the int dia is constant, but the ext changes with wall thickness?
     

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,651
    Messages
    7,290,062
    Members
    33,496
    Latest member
    GD-3

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom