.44 mag lead vs. FMJ

[Range Rat]

Hey guys! Anyone know of available .44 mag FMJ bullets? I've seen some lead available but from what I gather. . . it takes a different crimp?

A

 

[44man]

the lead just takes a heavy rolled crimp. most die sets can be adjusted to do the job. and you probably are looking for jacketed bullets not fmj. any reloading stuff is hard to find now. cats your own and you have 1 less look around for.

 

[Range Rat]

Correct 44man. . . just wanted to preclude confusion with TMJ aka "plated." Im using a Dillon Square Deal B. . . I have plenty of crimp to add according to the current die setting. . . Any info on crimping dimensions?

 

[John from MD]

Most .44 and .45 heavy loads need good bullet pull and a heavy crimp. Lighter loads with faster powders need less crimp. The more you crimp, the more you work the brass and the faster it cracks.

What kind of loads are you planning to make up? List your powder and bullet type and weight.

 

[44man]

Correct 44man. . . just wanted to preclude confusion with TMJ aka "plated." Im using a Dillon Square Deal B. . . I have plenty of crimp to add according to the current die setting. . . Any info on crimping dimensions?

what i do is roll the crimp in the canlure until it "looks" and feels tight trying not to wrinkle the case.once i am set then i am set. you need it tight for slower powders and upper power loads and you dont want to jar the bullet loose if you are using a revolver or it can pull out enough that you get a jammed cylinder and i shoot a lot in a lever gun and they have to be tight enough not to get pushed back in the case while in the tube and during recoil. as long as i keep it close to the max oal and they look and feel tight and i can see the rolled crimp and they feel tight i go with it.

 

[Range Rat]

I had previously loaded 240 XTPs (jacketed) over 23.6 of H110 using magnum primers. I liked the load, however I am looking at the possibility of switching to a cast lead bullet. The casts have a cannelure as well. . . I guess Im asking: If I should expect to have to put more crimp on the lead than I did with the jacketed?

Either way Ill be starting with reduced loads and will perform "push tests" on the completed rounds to get a feel for the crimp. . . And of course keep checking remaining rounds in the cylinder as I fire for any pull.

FYI Im putting these through a Ruger SR with 9.5" bbl.

 

[wgttgw]

Most cast bullets will have a crimp groove. You will roll crimp into that. For cast loads I suggest you seat and crimp in separate steps.

You mentioned H110 and reduced loads. You may already know, but you can't reduce H110 by much. I have shot a 250 grain cast with H110 near your jacket load. I personally liked 2400 better so I don't remember the load.

This is a roll crimp on one of my 2400 44 mag rounds. Not saying this is what it needs to be but this is what works for me. The photo is not the best and may not be much help.

 

[wgttgw]

Just realize my avatar pic has better examples of my roll crimps.

 

[John from MD]

Range Rat,

H110 is one powder that you should not reduce loads with. If you want to play with a powder for .44 mag, use 2400. You can shoot as little as 13 gns and as much as 22 with a 240 gn bullet. As for crimps, I use heavy crimps on any 2400 load as it needs the bullet pull for correct burning.

For light, paper punching loads using Unique, I use 7 grains with a light crimp as the powder burns faster.

Other than burn characteristics, the only time the crimp is really, really important is when you are shooting full power, heavy bullets loads in a revolver or lever action as 44man stated. I have seen 300 grain bullets pull out in a Ruger SB and jam the cylinder. Easy to clear but a pain in the ass.

John

 

[Range Rat]

Range Rat,

H110 is one powder that you should not reduce loads with.
John

I suppose I used the wrong term and should clarify lol. I meant reduce from what my current recipe calls for. I don't go below published mins. . .

I do appreciate the advice and the pictures. I may just take the leap and buy a few cast bullets and give em a whirl.

Never shot 2400, sounds good though. . . Any good leads on where to find some? I actually have a couple thousand 9mm bullets/brass I'd be willing to to trade for some powder(s) if anyone is interested.

 

[John from MD]

I don't know of any shops in Ceciltuckey. There is a Shooters Supplies or something like that in New Castle, DE and there is Clyde's in Baltimore county. That is the best I can do for that neck of the world.

John

 

[glock9mm]

Try X-Ring in Newark. They usually carry alot of different powders however, I'm not sure what there current inventory looks like.

 

[Magnumite]

As with a previous poster, I always use a strong crimp for the reason given plus to reduce probability of bullet creep of unfired rounds from recoil.

The only luck I've had with magnum level loads using good, hard cast bullets has been 2400. It is a forgiving powder in that doesn't go way overpressure when looking for a maximum load. All other powders I have used with lead bullets (including the Silver Bullet) in magnum velocity territory caused severe leading.

I save lead for 10.7 grains of Unique (or the closest weight a particular cavity will throw that day). This gives a velocity of about 1050 FPS (chrono'd) from my guns and is accurate out to 100 meters with a good bullet. I also use 5.9 grains of Bullseye for a milder load, really wicked on bowling pins and allows fast followup shots. All these loads are with 240 grain bullets.