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Old March 21st, 2011, 10:59 AM #1
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Upgrades to my brand new RIA 1911 Tactical

As I'm waiting for my brand new 1911 RIA tactical , I keep thinking of things I want to do to it. I am open to learn some basic gunsmithing with this gun.

I already have a post on the red dot sight:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=54016

and there is seem to be a conversation going on on a diff grips and mags.

Any other ideas ?

thank you all !!
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Old March 21st, 2011, 11:04 AM #2
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I plan on changing the grips to the VZ Operator II's in Dirty Olive, adding some extra mags, either Wilson or Chip MC, and possibly a threaded barrel with a compensator (maybe).
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Old March 21st, 2011, 11:05 AM #3
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I'd check here if I was you:

http://www.mdshooters.com/showpost.p...22&postcount=6
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Old March 21st, 2011, 11:08 AM #4
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No. Get the gun and shoot it. Do that for maybe six to nine months and then decide if anything really bugs you.

I changed the grips on my RIA almost immediately because the stock panels just felt bad to me.

I know I want to get either a gold or brass or maybe a white bead in the front sight, but that isn't an urgent need.

Mags, ammo and grip panels are the only real must haves. Oh, and cleaning items and some lube.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 11:15 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyG View Post
As I'm waiting for my brand new 1911 RIA tactical , I keep thinking of things I want to do to it. I am open to learn some basic gunsmithing with this gun.

I already have a post on the red dot sight:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=54016

and there is seem to be a conversation going on on a diff grips and mags.

Any other ideas ?

thank you all !!
Mags, use Wilson Combat mags, try to avoid mags with metal followers unless the follower is rounded up front (Pointed metal followers damage some 1911's feed ramps).

Grips, G10, Hogue Aluminum Grips, Crimson Trace Laser Grips, or some classic checkered cocobolo wood grips.

Unless you are familiar with gunsmithing dont do anything that would be considered gunsmithing to the gun until you really know what you are doing. Get a few 1911 books and read them thoroughly before you even think of taking a file, dremel, mill, ect...to a 1911. Get a book by Jerry Kuhnhausen first and read it several times over.

One wrong mistake wil cost you WAY more than you saved trying to do much work yourself at home. Ive seen hundreds of people in a bad spot after trying their hand ant smithing 9Especially 1911's) and they had to pay me alot to get them out of it. I would prefer for people to never need someone like me.

Im not saying you arent capible but understand the gun and the work BEFORE doing anything, and dont listen to any gunsmithing advice on the internet, 95% of its bad advice.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 11:16 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikec View Post
No. Get the gun and shoot it. Do that for maybe six to nine months and then decide if anything really bugs you.

I changed the grips on my RIA almost immediately because the stock panels just felt bad to me.

I know I want to get either a gold or brass or maybe a white bead in the front sight, but that isn't an urgent need.

Mags, ammo and grip panels are the only real must haves. Oh, and cleaning items and some lube.
Listen to this guy, this is EXCELLENT advice.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 11:16 AM #7
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Is this the C&S Trigger kit commonly referenced?

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Old March 21st, 2011, 11:21 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clandestine View Post
Mags, use Wilson Combat mags, try to avoid mags with metal followers unless the follower is rounded up front (Pointed metal followers damage some 1911's feed ramps).

Grips, G10, Hogue Aluminum Grips, Crimson Trace Laser Grips, or some classic checkered cocobolo wood grips.

Unless you are familiar with gunsmithing dont do anything that would be considered gunsmithing to the gun until you really know what you are doing. Get a few 1911 books and read them thoroughly before you even think of taking a file, dremel, mill, ect...to a 1911. Get a book by Jerry Kuhnhausen first and read it several times over.

One wrong mistake wil cost you WAY more than you saved trying to do much work yourself at home. Ive seen hundreds of people in a bad spot after trying their hand ant smithing 9Especially 1911's) and they had to pay me alot to get them out of it. I would prefer for people to never need someone like me.

Im not saying you arent capible but understand the gun and the work BEFORE doing anything, and dont listen to any gunsmithing advice on the internet, 95% of its bad advice.
That's a very good advice.. thank you for the books references, I will def. have to learn alot and will take it extremly slow.

But I have to start somewhere.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 11:27 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vector03 View Post
Is this the C&S Trigger kit commonly referenced?

Yup, and most of them drop in beautifully. They really should be installed and tuned as well. You want tight but not overly tight Hammer and Sear Pins. You want to polish the face of the Sear Spring where they make contact with the Sear and Disconnector, and put a slight angle on the leg that contact the Disconnector to prevent binding, and be sure the Sear Spring hook does not protrude into the Mag Well. You want to dykem (Dye) the Sear and Hammer Hooks and check engagement. Make sure the Hammer Strut dont bind on the Hammer, and that it dont slap the Beavertail Safety when fired. You want to check and make sure the Hammer Spur dont make contact with the Beavertail, or the Beavertail Hammer Recess. You want to be sure the Disconnector tension is right and dont bind up movement of the slide. Be sure the Mainspring Plunger moves freely and check to make sure the Sear, or Hammer dont bind in the frame, or that there is excessive side to side slop with the Hammer or Sear. Also check to make sure the previously cut Safety has proper engagement and still holds the new internals and is safe. Do a Slide drop test and see if the Hammer follows on an unloaded gun with the grip safety engaged and your fiinger OFF the trigger.

These kits usually feel best when a full fit Trigger is instaled and fit with minimal travel and slop.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 11:27 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyG View Post
This gun is not for self defence or carry. This is my project gun that I plan to upgrade and learn from. But I will most def. put a few hundred rounds through before any upgrades to get a feel for it.
My RIA isn't a defense gun either, but before I would do anything to possibly void the very good warranty on the gun, make sure it isn't one of the few lemons. Yes, lemons. Every factory produces them.

Why do you want to change something? Education is a valid answer, but to buy a gun and immediately start rebuilding it to me is a little much.

Buying a second slide and components and then learning how to properly assemble that slide to me is a better route. You have a working slide, on the gun, and you can see how things are done. The same with a new inexpensive frame and parts.
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