Polymer80 PF940v2 Review

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  • StantonCree

    Watch your beer
    Jan 23, 2011
    23,932
    Welp it’s cut and tossing an upper on there doesn’t appear to be any recoil spring hang up

    I’ll install the lower parts when kiddo goes to bed
     

    denimdan85

    Active Member
    Aug 12, 2014
    426
    Hanover, PA
    Anyone test fire with a factory Glock gen2 slide?

    I believe I used a Gen 2 34 slide on mine. I am not positive but the gun it came off of was a 2 pin model. I only put 150 rounds through it initially but it ran flawlessly. Of course, I cycled it probably a thousand times by hand before getting to the range.

    The donor gun is the pink framed 34. GymRatz was nice enough to strip it and sell me just the slide and parts. The slide stop that came with it did not fit the p80 frame so that also leads me to believe it is a Gen 2.

    https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=218334&page=5

    This is the slide stop that came with it.

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/475555/glock-slide-stop-release-with-spring-glock-17-34-2-pin-model-steel-blue

    I had to purchase one of these.

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/829847/glock-slide-stop-release-with-spring-glock-17-19-22-23-26-27-31-32-33-34-35-3-pin-model-steel-blue
     

    StantonCree

    Watch your beer
    Jan 23, 2011
    23,932
    I believe I used a Gen 2 34 slide on mine. I am not positive but the gun it came off of was a 2 pin model. I only put 150 rounds through it initially but it ran flawlessly. Of course, I cycled it probably a thousand times by hand before getting to the range.

    The donor gun is the pink framed 34. GymRatz was nice enough to strip it and sell me just the slide and parts. The slide stop that came with it did not fit the p80 frame so that also leads me to believe it is a Gen 2.

    https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=218334&page=5

    This is the slide stop that came with it.

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/475555/glock-slide-stop-release-with-spring-glock-17-34-2-pin-model-steel-blue

    I had to purchase one of these.

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/829847/glock-slide-stop-release-with-spring-glock-17-19-22-23-26-27-31-32-33-34-35-3-pin-model-steel-blue


    The pink gun is a gen3 it that was awesome of them to do that for you!!!!
     

    StantonCree

    Watch your beer
    Jan 23, 2011
    23,932
    Well finished mine. Doesn’t seem to be any recoil spring hang up. Loaded up a mag and racked all 15 out, no issues, locked back on last round. Mag drops free, slide fits well.

    Just gotta shoot it



    Also my gen2 19 slide fits great
     

    ZeroCool

    Active Member
    Nov 8, 2006
    330
    Glen Burnie
    For those interested, the G22 finish kits that Centerfire is selling for $325 are very much worth the money.

    Slide was in fantastic shape, a scuff here and there but definitely not used and abused. Factory Glock night sites that are still glowing fine (looks like they are dated 2012). Matching numbers and the lower parts kit included.

    Only complaint is that I wish that it would have been the older Gen 3 "frying pan" finish that was bomb proof. This is the more matte finish that shows wear a lot easier. If the gun was a ~2012 gun (based on night site date) then it would have been right around when they started making the finish change. Maybe some will get lucky and get the older (better) finish.

    With the frame at $110 at Brownells, you can build a P80 G22 for $435 total.

    I still think that its overpriced when you can get used G22s for $319 online, but that seems to be the best deal going if you wanna build your own. The eBay Glock kits seem to be increasing in price (by 10% or more) in the past few weeks...

    Overall a fun project and I can genuinely say that the P80 grip feels better in my hands than the regular Glock grip.
     

    whistlersmother

    Peace through strength
    Jan 29, 2013
    8,948
    Fulton, MD
    Well finished mine. Doesn’t seem to be any recoil spring hang up. Loaded up a mag and racked all 15 out, no issues, locked back on last round. Mag drops free, slide fits well.

    Just gotta shoot it



    Also my gen2 19 slide fits great

    When I assembled mine, I didn't get the take down spring all the way down in its slot. It rubbed up against the recoil spring - the gun still functioned, but after another post here talked about the issue, I did manage to get the spring down where it's supposed to go.

    So... Caught the bug yet?

    Good to know the gen2 19 slide works also.
     

    Racer Doug14

    Thread killer
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Feb 22, 2013
    8,003
    Millers Maryland
    When I assembled mine, I didn't get the take down spring all the way down in its slot. It rubbed up against the recoil spring - the gun still functioned, but after another post here talked about the issue, I did manage to get the spring down where it's supposed to go.

    So... Caught the bug yet?

    Good to know the gen2 19 slide works also.

    I had the same issue.
     

    hi3cho

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 16, 2012
    1,306
    Edgemere
    I just got my all cut and drilled and I am having trouble with the locking block. I read/saw that there are issues with the G17 V2's having tighter tolerances and some people were able to force the locking block in but some were unable to and had to have a replacement sent. Mine is really tight, I was able to force it in with a hammer but was unable to get it to sit flush and line up with the hole for the front pin. Anyone else have the same or a similar issue?
     

    Sundazes

    My brain hurts
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 13, 2006
    21,305
    Arkham
    I just got my all cut and drilled and I am having trouble with the locking block. I read/saw that there are issues with the G17 V2's having tighter tolerances and some people were able to force the locking block in but some were unable to and had to have a replacement sent. Mine is really tight, I was able to force it in with a hammer but was unable to get it to sit flush and line up with the hole for the front pin. Anyone else have the same or a similar issue?

    Mine was REALLY tight...tight enough I didn't think it'd go in...

    I tapped it in with a small brass hammer. Have you tried anything like that?

    In the Glock store video, he says to remove (read file) a little material on the leading edge on both sides to get it started. Then beat in with a brass mallet.
     

    hi3cho

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 16, 2012
    1,306
    Edgemere
    I am able to get it started with a little help from a hard plastic/rubber hammer. The problem I am having is getting it to sit flush in the front so the hole for the pin lines up. I could take a little material off on the sides but I am thinking the hang up is where the locking block sits in the receiver or jus the size of the bottom of the locking block. I could be wrong. I guess it cant hurt to try.
     

    BUFF7MM

    ☠Buff➐㎣☠
    Mar 4, 2009
    13,576
    Garrett County
    Did mine yesterday and it was very tight, used the brass hammer and it went in and lined up perfect. I used an air gun to blow out any material that might have fallen into the frame.
     

    erwos

    The Hebrew Hammer
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 25, 2009
    13,866
    Rockville, MD
    My PF940C had the exact same problem with the rear rail. I cleaned out the inside, tapped the rear rail in with a rubber mallet, and then hit the rear holes with a drill very carefully. Problem solved. I think what happens is that drilling the holes perfectly straight with a hand drill is very difficult even with the jig, and so you wind up with a slight angle that makes getting the pin in more difficult. But once you've got the rail in ALL THE WAY, you have another point to line things up with and can straighten out the hole. As long as your rail is ALL the way in when you do this, you should be GTG... in the end, the pin is there to keep the rail in the right place, not vica versa.

    If the jig had much longer guides for the drill, I suspect it would go more smoothly, but I see why that would be a packaging issue.
     

    hi3cho

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 16, 2012
    1,306
    Edgemere
    My PF940C had the exact same problem with the rear rail. I cleaned out the inside, tapped the rear rail in with a rubber mallet, and then hit the rear holes with a drill very carefully. Problem solved. I think what happens is that drilling the holes perfectly straight with a hand drill is very difficult even with the jig, and so you wind up with a slight angle that makes getting the pin in more difficult. But once you've got the rail in ALL THE WAY, you have another point to line things up with and can straighten out the hole. As long as your rail is ALL the way in when you do this, you should be GTG... in the end, the pin is there to keep the rail in the right place, not vica versa.

    If the jig had much longer guides for the drill, I suspect it would go more smoothly, but I see why that would be a packaging issue.

    I looked and don't see any material blocking it, I will have to hit it with some compressed air to make sure. It looks to be even on both sides so I don't know if that is the issue. I am not sure that opening up the hole will work for me because it would cause the slide to be raised in the front and I would imagine cause issues in the future. I did drill the hole through because it was really tight with just the pin. I think I would be better off taking a little material off the bottom of the locking block but I may just go back to Polymer80 at that point for a replacement.

    My plan right now is to use some compressed air to clear any possible debris hanging it up and then to try to beat it flush with a rubber mallet. I may try to take some material off the insides of the frame to see if that is where the contact is preventing it from sitting flush.
     

    Racer Doug14

    Thread killer
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Feb 22, 2013
    8,003
    Millers Maryland
    A couple of YT videos, that now are gone, said to install the rail blocks then drill all the way though. IV8888 showed it when they finally did a " how to".
     

    hi3cho

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 16, 2012
    1,306
    Edgemere
    A couple of YT videos, that now are gone, said to install the rail blocks then drill all the way though. IV8888 showed it when they finally did a " how to".

    I will have to look and see I any videos on the topic are still there. I am still thinking this will not solve my issue because it is not the tight fit of the pin I am having an issue with, it is the rail not sitting flush which I could cheat the hole up by drilling but then the rail would not be level and I would think would cause issues. Not sure when I will have time to mess with it but I will report back when I do.
     

    erwos

    The Hebrew Hammer
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 25, 2009
    13,866
    Rockville, MD
    If it's not sitting flush, you need to clean up the interior of the frame. I can almost guarantee you that there's material from the drilling that is in the way. After that, yeah, figure it out.
     

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