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  • lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    somd_mustangs quotes himself and says damn, these are nice :)
    YMMV but the one that came today is dated 2/80, unissued / zero wear, not a rework and original factory-matched parts (slide, barrel, block numbered to the frame).
    Original fat slide, hex pin and forged block.
    Import mark is a neat stamp on right side of slide, hardly visible.

    My only complaint is AIM just tossed the gun in the box on top of the holster and the plastic geegaws on the holster put some scuff marks on the slide.
    Ironically the original Bw plastic bag and inventory tag were stuffed underneath the holster, with the VCI paper neatly folded inside.

    I was skeptical but very pleasantly surprised and if I wasn't strapped for cash I'd buy a couple more to squirrel away.

    It's really too nice to shoot dammit.

    Mine was early 60s, but in great shape. I feel the same way, if it wasn’t for the cost, I’d order a second one and go with a hex pin (newer if nothing else).

    Sounds like they packed yours exactly like they packed mine.
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,711
    ATF declared the P1 and P38 that are military or police as C&R regardless of age.
    These P1's from AIM are marked "Bw" which is the mark of the Bundeswehr so they qualify (in general P1's are either military or police).
    The P38's that AIM sold (very quickly) were early 1960's guns with military markings

    Commercial P38 that are not 50 years old are not C&R unfortunately.

    Curios or Relics List — Update January 2008 through June 2014
    - Walther, Model P38 semiautomatic pistols, bearing the Norwegian Army Ordnance crest on the slide, 9mm Luger caliber, S/N range 369001-370000
    - Walther, post World War II production Model P38- and P1-type semiautomatic pistols made for or issued to a military force, police agency, or other government agency or entity.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Also if nothing else (I’ll go double check), but my P1 is marked 1964 manufacture.

    Cz82s are newer than any P1 AFAIK. West German state no longer exists...
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,711
    PSA - Walther P1 slide cracks

    For those that got the standard, "thin" slide P1's pay close attention to it...
    One guy over on the P38 forum already had a slide failure after just over 100 rounds using 115gr FMJ.
    Symptoms manifested as a sudden loss of accuracy (I've heard that from other folks that suffered slide cracks as well).
    That's not to say your gun will fail, but it's a known problem so keep an eye out.

    Several places sell stripped "fat" slides and it's a (relatively) easy process to swap the parts over.
    If you go that route be sure to get the forged lock block too.
    And a fresh set of standard-rate springs (Wolff aka gunsprings).
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    For those that got the standard, "thin" slide P1's pay close attention to it...
    One guy over on the P38 forum already had a slide failure after just over 100 rounds using 115gr FMJ.
    Symptoms manifested as a sudden loss of accuracy (I've heard that from other folks that suffered slide cracks as well).
    That's not to say your gun will fail, but it's a known problem so keep an eye out.

    Several places sell stripped "fat" slides and it's a (relatively) easy process to swap the parts over.
    If you go that route be sure to get the forged lock block too.
    And a fresh set of standard-rate springs (Wolff aka gunsprings).

    I’ve got a new spring refresh pack coming and I already ordered a stripped fat slide. Mine came with a forged locking block. All other parts match on the gun. Someone on ebay is selling stripped fat blocks for $16.95+$4 in shipping right now...

    I figured cheap insurance in case mine broke.

    My accuracy sucks, but it is because it shoots 7-8 inches low at 10 yards. I basically had to aim close to the base of the front blade to get on target and that ain’t accurate at all. I swapped the front and rear sights to later model white dot sights from CDNN for about $19 shipped. The fron is a #3 marked. My original front wasn’t marked, but looks to be about .025” taller than my #3 marked sight. Likely still too tall, but with a nearly missing white dot, I put a dot of red fingernail polish on the depression where the white dot should be prominent. It gives me a good point of alignment now, so I can either line up the top of the front blade (likely too low), line the dot up centered along the top of the rear notch (might be level POI) or it can be resting on the top of the rear notch (might be high).

    That should improve my accuracy a lot. That first range session I was shooting 4” groups at 10yds. Then again before I figured out my Glock sights I was shooting about that with my Glock too (now I am managing about 2” groups at 10yds with fairly rapid fire after about 500-700rnds of practice).
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,711
    P1/P38 was originally sighted using a "12 o'clock" hold vice 6 o'clock so try that too.
    Try laying the front sight dot over top of what you want to hit.
    If you've already tried that forgive me... it's not always a natural sight picture.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    P1/P38 was originally sighted using a "12 o'clock" hold vice 6 o'clock so try that too.
    Try laying the front sight dot over top of what you want to hit.
    If you've already tried that forgive me... it's not always a natural sight picture.

    I think I tried that? Can’t remember. At least off the top of my head it would still would be low, but I bet that would be a lot closer to on target. Heck, with the new front sight, if I try to line up the new dot on top of the target, that might be the ticket.

    I still like my 6 o’clock holds :-(

    I am hoping after work Thursday I can hit the range. I want to sight in my 6.5 grendel AR again as I am swapping the scope rings and out a KAW linear comp on it. I plan to take my P1 and my G17 with me to put a box each through them.
     

    dreadpirate

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 7, 2010
    5,521
    Cuba on the Chesapeake
    Mine was early 60s, but in great shape. I feel the same way, if it wasn’t for the cost, I’d order a second one and go with a hex pin (newer if nothing else).

    Sounds like they packed yours exactly like they packed mine.

    I was looking at a hex version of one of these but decided to put my money in an IHC Garand from CMP for now. Pretty tempting esp. if I can use my C&R license.
     

    bbrown

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Oct 10, 2009
    3,032
    MD
    So being 50 years old is not a hard requirement in all cases? Sounds good to me. The Walther P1's in question were made in the 70's and 80's.

    Any firearm more than 50 years old is already C&R and yes, that includes F/A.

    Some firearms less than 50 years old were declared C&R due to special circumstances, e.g., East German and Soviet Makarovs are C&R because the respective countries no longer exist. Bulgarian MAKs are not C&R because Bulgaria still exists.

    The CZ-82 is C&R for other reasons, but the CZ-83 is not. There are other examples.
     

    Jimbob2.0

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 20, 2008
    16,600
    Any firearm more than 50 years old is already C&R and yes, that includes F/A.

    Some firearms less than 50 years old were declared C&R due to special circumstances, e.g., East German and Soviet Makarovs are C&R because the respective countries no longer exist. Bulgarian MAKs are not C&R because Bulgaria still exists.

    The CZ-82 is C&R for other reasons, but the CZ-83 is not. There are other examples.

    Never knew that was the rationale as why Bulgarians weren't included. How did P64s get on the list Poland still exists?
     

    ohen cepel

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 2, 2011
    4,509
    Where they send me.
    Never knew that was the rationale as why Bulgarians weren't included. How did P64s get on the list Poland still exists?

    I think some of it is that the importer (or someone motivated enough) submits justification to the ATF to get something on the list. That is why you'll see single items on there like "Winchester 94 serial #89234823", in that a collector pushed for some reason to get it added.

    In the case of the importer it allows the 82's to sell for about $50 more than the 83's and more importantly to really move.

    I think the 64's were likely a Cold War argument, and more importantly someone submitted for them. I think there has to be enough $$ to be made for someone to care.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Maybe since they were manufactured in the 1960's ?

    Nope, they were made from late 1964 up until something like 81 or 82 when they switched to Making the P83, which is also a really interesting 9mm Makarov chambered pistol. Both of mine are 1964 manufacture, early serial, but I know some guys with manufacture dates in the 1970s.

    It’s all about offering an explanation to the ATF that they can find convincing. It is CURIO and relic. Not just relic.

    The relic part is what is satusfied by the 50+yrs old. The curio part is, “convince the ATF there is something neat about it”. Why the P1s that are police or military are interesting, because that means they were West German and West Germany no long exists. Civilian P1s could have been sold to anyone.

    Cz82s were Czechoslovakian government issue only. The Cz83 was the civilian version sold (and still sold). Czechoslovakia no longer exists. Hence the handgun is “curious”.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    Classic just sent email. P64 on sale for $179.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

    If at all interested I’d get one now...

    SOG is out (unless they are in stock again in the last few days). DK Firearms is out of stock. I think that makes just Classic and JG who have them in stock anymore. It really feels like “last of our P64s” kind of sale.

    Or not. Who knows.
     

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