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Old February 16th, 2009, 05:09 PM #11
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With taper pins, the trick is that it takes a lot of force to knock them loose, but once loose, they tap right out with little effort. I use a small carbide center punch to make a dent on the "small side" of the pins. Then I clamp the FSB with about 1/4 of the width of the barrel outside of the vise jaws in a big plastic padded vise, line a 1/2" center punch with the punch marks, and smack it good with a 3lb mini sledge, this has only taken 2 or 3 hits to knock out the most stubborn pins, and has not marred or bent the sight or barrel. If you keep hitting the pins too lightly, they will mushroom over, and make it even harder for them to move. I avoid using heat as much as I can, but if you must use it, heat only the pins and lugs, heating slowly and evenly until a drop of oil on the barrel next to the FSB lugs (but not touching it) starts to smoke, then stop, you do not want it even close to glowing red.

It is not neccesary, but when I am installing a clamp-on FSB that does not require taper pins, I use a thin coat of red loc-tite in the pin channels, lightly hammer the pins back in without the sight base on, then gently grind the pins to the barrel's contour, and then paint over the exposed metal with the closest matching epoxy paint I can find, after this you can't tell where the pins start and the barrel ends. line up the sight, clamp it on, then you are set to go.

A trick I learned about how to line up the base is to use a spare firing pin from a newer model S&W revolver, put the small end of the pin in the barrel port, and the large end will barely fit in the new base, mark it's position, pull off the base, remove the pin, and reinstall, torquing the screws evenly.

You can also verify center and if needed tweak it slightly by bore sighting it with the rear windage set to the middle.
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Last edited by alucard0822; February 16th, 2009 at 05:31 PM.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 05:31 PM #12
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Bring it to the range tomorrow night and I'll get it off there.
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Plus, she's a shooter....and this used to be a gun board-but that's a topic for another day.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 07:44 PM #13
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Oh, jeez... it didn't occur to me he might have been talking about one of those black plastic Mattel mid-range varmint semiautos. I thought we were talking about a real rifle.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 08:43 PM #14
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give james a break, guy, he's a nice guy and cannot be blamed for his black rifle. It needed a home, was lonely and forlorn, and begged to be cleaned, oiled, and let live in his gun locker.

(sorry james, couldnt resist!)
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Old February 16th, 2009, 11:16 PM #15
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Old February 17th, 2009, 08:34 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E.Shell View Post
Assuming we are talking about a standard factory installed mil-spec AR-15 front sight base, this is incorrect, the pins ARE tapered and must come out from a specific direction. A roll pin punch, with the projecting tip, is not the right tool for the job, and will be immediately ruined if used thus. They are solid taper pins, not roll pins, and closer to 1/8" at the small end.
The part about solid support, such as a steel bench block, is quite important. I have had to apply gentle heat and penetrating oil to get some of these pins loose, they are often in there tightly enough to damage a Starrett pin punch.
+1

These pins are tough to get moving. Brownells sells a special block to hold and support everything securely. I pulled many of these and none are easy. The proper tools make a difference. They are tapered.
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Old February 17th, 2009, 06:47 PM #17
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Hit 'em hard enough and they will move!

When I took some out of my J&T upper recently, I did have to put considerable effort into the removal process. Mine were straight pins, not tapered, so definitely not milspec.

A hydraulic press might be easier, if you have access to one.
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