M1 garand sights

Blacksmith101 · Jul 19, 2018

ras_oscar said:
Update: backed the windage side spindle screw off a bit and now both windage and elevation move with proper resistance. Took it out to the range with 6 clips of M2 ball ammo. The only issue I had was the second clip, the bolt stuck after stripping the first round 1/2" off the block. Pushed the round back and tried again. Same result. Then I remembered the WW2 training videos showing instructors bumping the handle. Winner. Other than occasionally bumping the handle on the first round, the gun ran flawlessly. I even had the opportunity to loose load a few rounds into an empty clip in the receiver. Windage required zero adjust adjustment from static. Elevation had to come down to 7 clicks at 50 yards. The gun is more accurate than I am. I need to stretch out to 100 yards next trip and rock on. Got it home, finally got the wood stock off, cleaned and greased the parts I could get to without removing the op rod. ( that's the next video to watch). My reloading dies are being delivered tomorrow. Time to load up a ladder

When you were at the range shooting the "greatest battle implement ever made" how big was your grin?

Don't forget to plan your Bastogne Tribute for Christmas now you have an M1 Garand.
https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?203468&p=4611829#post4611829

lazarus · Jul 20, 2018

Blacksmith101 said:
When you were at the range shooting the "greatest battle implement ever made" how big was your grin?

Don't forget to plan your Bastogne Tribute for Christmas now you have an M1 Garand.
https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?203468&p=4611829#post4611829

My wife would shove my Garand up my backside, with bayonet attached, if I tried to go to the range on Christmas Day. But I could probably do it Christmas week.

I had my Garand and my Carbine at the range yesterday for the first time ever. It may have been one of the happier moments in my life. I won’t lie.

Now I just need a 1911A1 (I had my German P1 with me though. Shhhh, don’t tell the American ladies about the hun.)

ras_oscar · Jul 23, 2018

Another question for my fellow Garand fans: I understand that the weapon was designed to be lubricated with grease, not oil. I have read on some forum posts that for accuracy many people prefer not to remove the stock from the receiver during routine cleaning. If I were to elect to leave the stock on during routine cleaning, how would I go about getting grease to all the lube points? I can get to the bottom of the bolt after removing the trigger group. I can get to the bolt rails by locking back the bolt. I can get to *most* of the gas piston from the bottom. Anything else I am missing, or should I just put on my big boy pants and take it apart fully?

TheOriginalMexicanBob · Jul 23, 2018

It depends on how you use the rifle. Match rifles aren't supposed to be disassembled any more than absolutely necessary as it can change how well the bedding is hold the receiver within the stock. Non-match rifles it probably matters very little. The type of trigger guard can matter as well...the original milled trigger guard, while aesthetically nicer looking, doesn't retain the spring tension the later design stamped trigger guard does...and that affects how well the trigger housing is retained within the stock. The more you disassemble it the greater the tension loss...but that's probably more theoretical than practical for the average shooter.

For the average M1 shooter it probably makes little difference though a truly dedicated Garand shooter might go ballistic at the thought of disassembling the rifle too often in their estimation.

dist1646 · Jul 23, 2018

lazarus · Jul 23, 2018

And also for general maintenance, unless you are dropping it in lakes or running thousands of rounds per year through the rifle you probably only need to relube once every year or so. If you are only shooting a couple of hundred rounds a year, figure relube every couple of years (whether it needs it or not).

Routine maintenance should be wipe down exposed metal with an oily rag with your choice of metal preservative oil (I use rem oil because I like to have to reapply every month or two) and run a non-abrasive brush through the bore and a couple of patches soaked with a mild carbon solvent. Maybe do that every few range sessions unless you are shooting a lot at a session (I often only take 3-5 clips with me as I am taking several guns and I don’t have all day).

ras_oscar · Jul 23, 2018

ok, thanks. I think I'll keep it together and lube from above. I see no grease applied to the op rod or gas plunger, which surprises me. I had expected those to be major wear points.

dist1646 · Jul 23, 2018

The inside of the camming surface of the op rod is shown in the above diagram. It is where the bolt is cammed out of battery during cycling by the op rod. Work the action slowly and you can see the relationship between the bolt and op rod as the bolt rotates from the locked position to unlocked.
Greasing the gas piston on the end of the op rod would be futile and unnecessary since the hot gas from the gas port would simply burn it off.

Clifjr · Jul 23, 2018

ras_oscar said:
ok, thanks. I think I'll keep it together and lube from above. I see no grease applied to the op rod or gas plunger, which surprises me. I had expected those to be major wear points.

Here is some excellent information on Garand’s
http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-tutorials

mac1_131 · Jul 23, 2018

Not a problem to remove it from stock really. The front end (gas cylinder) is where things are sensitive, so leave the gas cylinder on and maybe clean the gas cylinder once a year if you shoot it a lot.

Otherwise not a problem to take it out of stock to make cleaning the barrel a little easier.

Also be careful not to nick the crown, get a muzzle guide for your cleaning rod.

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M1 garand sights

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