Need advice on .22 can

NYRangers917 · Jan 8, 2019

Looking to finally dip a toe into the NFA world after years of drooling over stuff.

Host will be a currently bone stock 10/22.

My question is would it be better to either trade for / buy a TD model and go for the Ruger ISB upper, or buy a threaded barrel for my current rifle and go for a more traditional screw on can?

I've looked around at aftermarket barrels and some seem to cost as much as just buying a whole new TD model. Also I'd like to run the M16 style techsites and it seems most of the aftermarket threaded barrels do not have the front dovetail. I'm not looking to mount a competition grade scope on this thing.

How does the ISB stack up to a traditional screw on can as far as sound reduction?

This will just be a fun plinker for me and my daughter (when shes old enough) to shoot. Maybe some light squirrel/rabbit blastin too.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Pinecone · Jan 8, 2019

SR22 is a pistol. I think you are thinking of the Silent SR ISB

Integral suppressors typically do a better job of suppression, as they are longer and large volume.

But, while the ISB is very nice, you are limited to using it on a Ruger TD. A conventional one can be used on any number of firearms (rifle and pistol) by threading or changing to a threaded barrel.

BTW, the ISB does not have a front sight dovetail either.

Occam · Jan 8, 2019

I'd stay away from spending your $200 tax stamp and months of waiting on an integral suppressor that can't wander around your rimfire collection. Because you WILL want to play with it on a pistol or on a .22 bolt gun and more. Resistance is futile.

F-Stop · Jan 8, 2019

I agree with above. Maybe get the integral and a screw on at same time? I may get one but already have a couple rimfire cans.

NYRangers917 · Jan 8, 2019

Yeah my mistake i meant the ISB from ruger for the TD model.

I think Occam makes a good point about the ability to move to other hosts. I'm not exactly flush with cash and this will be my first NFA item so I think the screw on can will get me more mileage in the long run.

Hawkeye · Jan 8, 2019

Occam said:
I'd stay away from spending your $200 tax stamp and months of waiting on an integral suppressor that can't wander around your rimfire collection. Because you WILL want to play with it on a pistol or on a .22 bolt gun and more. Resistance is futile.

This for sure.

Integral suppressors are really nice for certain use cases, but a rimfire rifle isn't one of them (at least in my book).

If I were going to buy a rimfire can right now, it would be a Rugged Oculus. Behind that would be a Dead Air Mask HD (which I own - I bought them before the Oculus came out). They are both great cans, but the Oculus is modular which is really great.

Shooting rimfire through a good suppressor is addictive and you'll want to swap it on to all of your .22s sooner or later, so get ready.

rbird7282 · Jan 8, 2019

I would go with a Silenco Sparrow. One if the beat out there. Mine migrated from different .22 pistols to my 10/22 50th Anniversary edition

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Occam · Jan 8, 2019

Hawkeye said:
If I were going to buy a rimfire can right now, it would be a Rugged Oculus.

Which I also chose, and am very glad I did.

Bountied · Jan 8, 2019

The Spectre II I'm running sounds like mouse farts after the first round pop. It's a PIA to clean and needs to be cleaned every 400-500 rounds. I've tried the dip but still needed to scrub the crap out of it. Using a pic for the bulk and then brass brush for clean up works the best. You can tell when it's time to clean when you POI goes way off for some reason.

alucard0822 · Jan 8, 2019

Haven't handled the SR-ISB, but it looks awesome. Integral cans do a couple things that direct-mount don't or can't, they usually include ports to bleed off pressure, and keep most ammo subsonic, or have a very short actual barrel, but being integral make the 16" so no 2nd SBR stamp needed. They are smaller, lighter, and have more volume than a barrel and can together, especially nice with a lightweight backpacker type setup like the 10/22 takedown. They don't come loose like the vast majority of direct thread cans, and still tend to be user serviceable serviceable. Only real downside is that you can't swap it to other firearms, but who ends up with only a single can anyway?

bbradshaw21 · Jan 8, 2019

silencerco switchback probably meets your needs best.

i'm partial to the thunderbeast arms td22. that is geared more to bolt guns though

MacGuns · Jan 8, 2019

I saw one at a local gun store and picked it up. The weight of the Ruger ISB was a big turn off for me at 2.5 lbs. It makes it very front heavy. Adding a Silencerco Sparrow or Q El Camino (my new favorite 22LR can) adds only ounces to your rifle setup. The El Camino is only about 4 oz and sounds great.

NYRangers917 · Jan 8, 2019

MacMoov said:
I saw one at a local gun store and picked it up. The weight of the Ruger ISB was a big turn off for me at 2.5 lbs. It makes it very front heavy. Adding a Silencerco Sparrow or Q El Camino (my new favorite 22LR can) adds only ounces to your rifle setup. The El Camino is only about 4 oz and sounds great.

Yeah weight will be a factor since this will be a light handy rabbit stalking kinda rifle. Target shooting for my daughter as well.

I appreciate the replys and after some more research i think the silencerco sparrow fits the bill.

Now to await the tax return.

Hawkeye · Jan 9, 2019

If I could offer some advice:

The Sparrow is a fine can, (they've sold so many for a reason) and will work well. It is, however, an old design and not the best for a rimfire can compared to more modern ones. Being monocore, it will both have more first round pop than a stacked baffle can and it will be harder to clean. It's also a bit more expensive than some of the other alternatives, in addition to being an older design.

If you want SilencerCo, I would go with the Spectre II. It's $80 less than the Sparrow and is a click together K baffle design which will have less FRP and be easier to clean. (The Switchback looks kind of interesting but it's more expensive.)

If you are ok with other brands, both the Rugged Oculus and the Dead Air Mask are cheaper and newer better designs than the Sparrow as well. The Rugged is modular, the Mask isn't.

Just something to think about.

NYRangers917 · Jan 9, 2019

Hawkeye said:
If I could offer some advice:

The Sparrow is a fine can, (they've sold so many for a reason) and will work well. It is, however, an old design and not the best for a rimfire can compared to more modern ones. Being monocore, it will both have more first round pop than a stacked baffle can and it will be harder to clean. It's also a bit more expensive than some of the other alternatives, in addition to being an older design.

If you want SilencerCo, I would go with the Spectre II. It's $80 less than the Sparrow and is a click together K baffle design which will have less FRP and be easier to clean. (The Switchback looks kind of interesting but it's more expensive.)

If you are ok with other brands, both the Rugged Oculus and the Dead Air Mask are cheaper and newer better designs than the Sparrow as well. The Rugged is modular, the Mask isn't.

Just something to think about.

I will give that some thought. I have 0 experience with suppressors outside of video games :lol2:

I didnt even consider difficulty of maintenance, more research is required.

Bountied · Jan 9, 2019

Just saying, I have the Spectre II and it is very quiet. I shoot Gemtech subs, CCI quiets, and CCI standards all are subsonic. The only ammo that makes any real noise are mini mags and its more of an echo coming from the bullet breaking the sound barrier. With my CZ 455 the loudest thing is the hammer falling. It's not terrible to clean and is fairly small for what it does and the FRP is there but not that bad. Also if you use a little duster to purge the O2 it negates the FRP. my .02 I haven't shot all the .22 cans but when people ask me when I just pulled the trigger if it was a dud and I say look at the target, I think it's doing it's job.

Hawkeye · Jan 9, 2019

NYRangers917 said:
I didnt even consider difficulty of maintenance, more research is required.

With rimfire cans it's a concern much more than centerfire ones, because of the nature of the fouling. Rifle cans tend to clean themselves just due to the temperature and pressure. Centerfire pistol cans will get some carbon fouling, but nothing too serious (assuming you shoot jacketed bullets).

Rimfire cans, though.... rimfire is dirty, and mostly not jacketed so you end up with lead deposits that settle in the baffles over time. Some people clean by hand, some people clean in an ultrasonic or a rotary tumbler, some use "the dip" (which is a horrendously bad idea and quite dangerous unless you have hazmat experience and can dispose of it properly). I clean mine by hand, but I pre-treat the baffle stack with silicone oil (DOT 5 brake fluid) first, which keeps most of the fouling from adhering as well to the baffles. I may eventually get a rotary tumbler.

If you don't clean a rimfire can every 500 rounds or so (roughly) you'll end up with a can that you can't disassemble because it'll get so caked that it will stick together. Of the monocore designs, the Sparrow with it's external sleeves is better than the others, but a modern click-together K baffle design will be better still, because almost all of the fouling will be contained inside the baffle stack and won't ever get out to the inner wall of the tube.

mtlcafan79 · Jan 9, 2019

+1 for Spectre II on a bolt gun.

Bountied · Jan 9, 2019

Hawkeye said:
"the dip" (which is a horrendously bad idea and quite dangerous unless you have hazmat experience and can dispose of it properly).

I work in a lab so I took the lead acetate and precipitated out the lead to insoluble lead chloride using calcium chloride. Then you can just dispose of the lead chloride in the trash.

I clean mine by hand, but I pre-treat the baffle stack with silicone oil (DOT 5 brake fluid) first, which keeps most of the fouling from adhering as well to the baffles.

My BIL baked his can and then put it in the DOT 5. It worked really well. I may try to clean mine and do that method as well. Being able to wipe off the lead versus scrapping it off would be a big time saver.

Hawkeye · Jan 9, 2019

Bountied said:
I work in a lab so I took the lead acetate and precipitated out the lead to insoluble lead chloride using calcium chloride. Then you can just dispose of the lead chloride in the trash.

That's a good way to do it. I just see waaaaaaaaaaaaay too many people talking about "just use the dip" when they don't understand the fact that lead acetate is absorbable through skin contact. I don't personally think that I feel like risking lead poisoning over time to clean my suppressor.

My BIL baked his can and then put it in the DOT 5. It worked really well. I may try to clean mine and do that method as well. Being able to wipe off the lead versus scrapping it off would be a big time saver.

I heat the baffles and then toss them in a jar full of DOT 5 for a few hours / overnight. It's great.

Need advice on .22 can

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