Scope zeroing steps...

Boxcab · Feb 28, 2012

I need a step by step guide to finish out the installation of my Nikon M-223/Burris AR-PEPR mount on an AR-15. I have the mount installed and the scope mounted and leveled to the rifle top. What are my next steps?

1) Bore sight to get scope aligned with bore. The only adjustments I have are the Windage and Elevation knobs. I use those to achieve alignment. Should I do this at lowest or highest magnification?

2) Zero out Windage and Elevation knobs following Nikons directions (Pop knobs up and turn to zero setting then pop back down).

3) Shoot for accuracy and dial in ammo/rifle combo. Again, at lowest or highest magnification?

4) Re-zero knobs if required.

Anything I am missing?

Recommendations?

herr.baer · Feb 28, 2012

Here are the step I use.

Mount and level scope.

Bore sight Rifle

Fire a five shot group. Max magnification.

Make elevation and wind adjustment but don't zero out knobs.

Fire another 5 shot group to see if the zero is where I want it. If not make adjustments until it is where I want it.

When I have my zero. Then set the knobs to zero. Fire one more shot group to make sure you didn't move your zero when resetting your knobs.

wilcam47 · Feb 28, 2012

hvymax · Feb 28, 2012

You have pretty much covered it. You might do the laser thing but if you can cowitness the bore and the scope you should be in the ballpark.

davsco · Feb 28, 2012

for zeroing/sighting in, use the highest magnification you can, so you have the most precise shots.

i wouldn't do step 2 (zero the knobs) until you are sighted in on paper.

don't blindly trust the ballistic reticle or the trajectory tables, but shoot at various distances (eg 25 - 300 yds) so that you know where to hold and/or what to dial.

Boxcab · Feb 28, 2012

Thanks to all, I now just need find time to get to the range.

kalister1 · Feb 28, 2012

I can't get the video to play at work, I think it's the same thing I am about to type?

Fire a group of 3
Put the rifle into a rest, place the cross hairs on the same spot you used to fire the group and strap it down so it cannot move.
Now that it cannot move, you are centered on the target and you can see your groups. Now turn the screws on the scope until your cross hairs align with the center of the group.
IF the gun did not move at all, you just made the scope point to where the gun just shot.

IndispensableDestiny · Feb 28, 2012

I do what kalister wrote, but I start with one shot at 25 to 30 yards. I move the reticle from my aiming point to that one shot and fire a second shot to be sure I'm close. Then I take it out to 100 yards and shoot three or five shot groups for fine adjustment.

I don't think I've ever zeroed out the dials. I don't dial-n-shoot.

cobra · Mar 1, 2012

You'll need at least a bi pod to help steady the rifle.
Unless you have a steady,stable shooting platform it's very difficult to sight in.
When I sighted in the same scope on my AR.
Had a 4'x4' back stop with target set up on it at 100 yards. Use a large back stop since had no idea where initial point of inpact would be but wanted to see it.

Shot 5 shots aiming at the same point(bulls eye)Always aim at the same target and adjust scope instead of trying to compensate for scopes misalignment.

Once I saw where inpact was. Adjust turrets accordingly. Don't worry about what the hash lines read.

The hash lines on the turrets(adjustment knobs) are set up for 100 yards.

Example, shoot 2" high.
Turn knob 2" down,or 8 hash marks on knob. Each line =1/4 change.

Shoot 5 more shots at the same point of inpact. Adjust accordinglly.
Use a good quality ammo when sighting in. Not the bargain ammo.
Once you 0 in.
Pull knobs out and 0 them so hash marks line up at 100 for elevation. 0 windage.
you'll need to adjust for windaage and elevation. Only make correction for one or the other at a time.
Either adjust for elevation first. Once done adjust the windage or vise versa.
1 adjustment at a time.
This how I sight in a new scope since I don't have a gun vise to hold rifle in repeatable point of aim.
HTH

IndispensableDestiny · Mar 2, 2012

cobra said:
The hash lines on the turrets(adjustment knobs) are set up for 100 yards.

No, they are set up for MOA. In your example, one click is 1/4 MOA, or about 1/4 inch at 100 yards. So at 50 yards, it's 8 clicks per inch. At 200 yards it's 2 clicks per inch.

Now if you scope is set for clicks per mil, or some other MOA fraction, it's another story.

kalister1 · Mar 25, 2012

I zeroed a scope yesterday, cheap BSA 1.5 to 4.5
When I figured out was going on, if you turned the knob in the direction of the LEFT arrow the bullet moved to the RIGHT. same with the UP. It was moving the CROSS HAIRS in the direction of the arrow, not the bullet.

Has anybody ever seen this?

I usually just tie the rifle down and move the turrets while looking in the scope but yesterday I was unable to tie it down and did it by counting clicks.

Scope zeroing steps...

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

Boxcab

MSI EM

herr.baer

Maryland Escapee

wilcam47

Ultimate Member

hvymax

Banned

davsco

Ultimate Member

Boxcab

MSI EM

kalister1

R.I.P.

IndispensableDestiny

Ultimate Member

cobra

Ultimate Member

IndispensableDestiny

Ultimate Member

kalister1

R.I.P.

Users who are viewing this thread

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Latest threads

Forum statistics

Share this page