Ugh. I meant my MPX, not MCX.
Rugged Obsidian 9
- Thread starter Blaster229
- Start date
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I don't think so because the end of the barrel is also tapered. This doesn't look like that's available.
Maybe this will work. At least it is a lot cheaper.
https://inleadwetrust.com/product/tapered-muzzle-device-adapter-for-mpx/
Here's another https://www.infiniteproductsolutions.com/adapters/135LH-1228-BS-K/
Another, this looks better. https://www.downrangeproductsco.com/product/metric-thread-adapter-13-5x1-left-hand-to-1-2x28-4196/
https://inleadwetrust.com/product/tapered-muzzle-device-adapter-for-mpx/
Here's another https://www.infiniteproductsolutions.com/adapters/135LH-1228-BS-K/
Another, this looks better. https://www.downrangeproductsco.com/product/metric-thread-adapter-13-5x1-left-hand-to-1-2x28-4196/
OK, so I was getting confused in this tapered barrel thing on the MPX. I have a good friend who has several MPX's and cans to go with, so I called him. He is also a class 3 dealer and pretty much an expert all things suppressors.
He said you need the taper adaptor to give the can a 90 degree shoulder for the can to butt up against.
He recommends this one that John posted already.
https://inleadwetrust.com/product/tapered-muzzle-device-adapter-for-mpx/
You will also need an end cap with the 13.5 LH thread for the can. He did not recommend using a piston sleeve for some reason.
So you need both. welcome to the world of cans.
If you want to talk to my buddy directly, PM me and i will give you his contact. He will help you out.
ETA, it looks like the Rugged end cap and taper adaptor is in stock NOW, so buy them. The mounts/end caps go in and out of stock and can take months to come back in.
He said you need the taper adaptor to give the can a 90 degree shoulder for the can to butt up against.
He recommends this one that John posted already.
https://inleadwetrust.com/product/tapered-muzzle-device-adapter-for-mpx/
You will also need an end cap with the 13.5 LH thread for the can. He did not recommend using a piston sleeve for some reason.
So you need both. welcome to the world of cans.
If you want to talk to my buddy directly, PM me and i will give you his contact. He will help you out.
ETA, it looks like the Rugged end cap and taper adaptor is in stock NOW, so buy them. The mounts/end caps go in and out of stock and can take months to come back in.
I shoot mine on my 9 mm Stribog with out the solid spacer. It uses the booster that it can with. Is that a problem?
When shooting it on my VP9, it does not cycle, even when I use 147 gr rounds.
When using the shorter can only it is still pretty loud, off course less than without but not sneaky quiet like with the full can
The only modern PCC I am aware of that requires a booster assembly is the LWRC SMG 45. So yes, if I understand your post correctly it is a problem and you need to stop doing that immediately. The booster with spring is not intended for use on a fixed barrel without the fixed barrel spacer taking place of the spring. You are creating unnecessary wear and tear on the can and will likely eventually get baffle strikes, which at best can tear up your can, at worst it could launch shrapnel in unsafe directions.
If your VP9 will not cycle with the included booster assembly, that may be an indication of a problem. Have you tried it on any other handguns? I don’t own a VP9 so I can’t speak to how well they run suppressed, but the majority of handguns should work, at least some of the time. Are you using factory loads or reloads? Mouse fart reloads can often create the issue you are describing.
Rugged has a helpful guide on their website about the appropriate configurations of their pistol cans depending on use:
https://ruggedsuppressors.com/suppressor-guide-cat/suppressor-attachments/
NoahNoahNoah
Member
- Oct 29, 2020
- 8
The Stribog has a fixed barrel, correct? If so, using the piston with no fixed spacer is going to cause a baffle strike with any decently fast rate of fire. There are a number of videos on YouTube about this. You should check them out. The piston is meant to be used on pistols with tilting barrels. Using it on a fixed barrel causes the can to come out of alignment with the bore of the barrel, leading to catastrophic failure.
Correct, Stribog is a fixed barrel PCC.
Thanks guys. I have shot less than 30 rounds through it with the Stribog and VP9. I am lucky I have not had a baffle strike yet.
The VP9 is a left handed tread so I had to order the 13.5 x 1 if I remember correctly. There is nothing you can change that setup. No booster spring. It just screws on.
I looked that the attachment page and will give them a calm tomorrow
The VP9 is a left handed tread so I had to order the 13.5 x 1 if I remember correctly. There is nothing you can change that setup. No booster spring. It just screws on.
I looked that the attachment page and will give them a calm tomorrow
Did you order the 13.5x1 left hand Booster Piston:
https://ruggedsuppressors.com/product/piston/
Or the 13.5x1 left hand direct thread insert:
https://ruggedsuppressors.com/product/fixed-mount/
If you are using the direct thread insert, that is why your VP9 is not cycling. You need to use the booster piston in correct thread (13.5x1LH or whatever) with your booster housing and spring. Regardless please call Rugged (they might even be able to do a video call so you can show them what you are working with), because it seems as though there are a lot of unknowns there.
alucard0822
For great Justice
Awesome can, got to demo one, and it's great for an all around 9mm pistol/PCC can. K configurations are awesome on PCCs, keeps them short, limits gas blowback, and keeps them hearing safe. Often times there isn't a huge difference in dB measured at the shooter's ear between a longer more restrictive can, and a shorter less restrictive can, despite a big change at the muzzle.
For mounting, you have a couple options, for a browning tilt-barrel pistol, you need a booster/piston to match the barrel threads. When the pistol fires, the barrel and slide are locked till the bullet leaves the barrel, and there is an imbalance forcing the slide/barrel rearward about 1/4" to power the cycle, it unlocks and momentum alone completes the cycle as the spent case is ejected and a fresh round is fed/chambered. If ANYTHING interferes with this little bit of movement, the pistol won't cycle, so the booster essentially allows it to uncouple the can, and provides a little pressure to push the barrel/slide back and maintain slide velocity. So basically you need a piston for the booster/spring assembly. The downsides are that you need to swap pistons for each barrel thread pitch, as they are only run hand tight, they come loose when the pistol warms up, and you have to snug it down every couple mags, or torque it on the barrel.
A fixed barrel PCC is a different animal, bullet heads out the barrel, pressure drops, either the case acts as a piston driving the bolt rearward aka blowback, or some mechanism delays blowback by increasing resistance for a short ammount of time aka delayed blowback, or it uses a gas port to feed a piston to time the action aka the MPX mechanism. A booster with piston and spring allows the can to needlessly blow forward under pressure, and quickly wears the mating surfaces, leading to misalignment, leading to a baffle strike. This is where fixed barrel spacers or other mounting solutions are needed. If you replace the spring with a spacer in the booster, problem solved, except for the need for a piston to match the barrel threads, and it backs off and needs to be tightened frequently. The best solution IMO is the HK pattern 3 lug, rare in the suppressor world there is an actual widely adopted standard mounting interface, it's open source and parts are avaialble for most cans and dozens of companies make muzzle adapters. The beauty is that it is a fixed system, the spring only provides resistance to keep the tapered lugs in contact, when fired, pressure tightens the system to reduce leaks, and keep a can concentric. There are few downsides, it is fixes, so it won't function with tilt-barrel handguns, and it doesn't work on rifle cals, they overheat the spring and it allows play and can risk a baffle strike, but pistol rounds don't get hot enough to worry about. 3 lug also allows the muzzle device to be torqued, so it doesn't back off, it's fast to use, universal with adapters for most threads and simple.
There is another recent option that is promising, the Griffin cam-loc piston. I have handled one in the shop, and it solves a lot of problems, at least if you haven't already outfitted everything with HK 3 lug, and don't care to shoot handguns suppressed. First is that it has a tapered interface, so the adapter can be torqued down on a barrel, then the taper between the piston and adapter increases surface friction enough that it won't come loose like direct threading. Adapters are available in most threads, so you can swap the can between hosts with different barrel threads without buying or swapping pistons. It's QD, the threads are sectioned so it slides straight on, then 1/4 turn to tighten. It works with tilt-barrel handguns and boosters, but also needs a fixed barrel spacer for PCCs. You have to remove the adapter and re-tourque it ever time you remove and reinstall the barrel.
Sig and Q love to use those stupid tapered shoulders. Some muzzle devices work fine(most 3 lugs), and will torque right down on them, there has to be a back bore, if the threads extend all the way to the rear mating surface it needs an adapter. The tapered shoulder adapters solve the problem, and allow most any muzzle device to be used.
For mounting, you have a couple options, for a browning tilt-barrel pistol, you need a booster/piston to match the barrel threads. When the pistol fires, the barrel and slide are locked till the bullet leaves the barrel, and there is an imbalance forcing the slide/barrel rearward about 1/4" to power the cycle, it unlocks and momentum alone completes the cycle as the spent case is ejected and a fresh round is fed/chambered. If ANYTHING interferes with this little bit of movement, the pistol won't cycle, so the booster essentially allows it to uncouple the can, and provides a little pressure to push the barrel/slide back and maintain slide velocity. So basically you need a piston for the booster/spring assembly. The downsides are that you need to swap pistons for each barrel thread pitch, as they are only run hand tight, they come loose when the pistol warms up, and you have to snug it down every couple mags, or torque it on the barrel.
A fixed barrel PCC is a different animal, bullet heads out the barrel, pressure drops, either the case acts as a piston driving the bolt rearward aka blowback, or some mechanism delays blowback by increasing resistance for a short ammount of time aka delayed blowback, or it uses a gas port to feed a piston to time the action aka the MPX mechanism. A booster with piston and spring allows the can to needlessly blow forward under pressure, and quickly wears the mating surfaces, leading to misalignment, leading to a baffle strike. This is where fixed barrel spacers or other mounting solutions are needed. If you replace the spring with a spacer in the booster, problem solved, except for the need for a piston to match the barrel threads, and it backs off and needs to be tightened frequently. The best solution IMO is the HK pattern 3 lug, rare in the suppressor world there is an actual widely adopted standard mounting interface, it's open source and parts are avaialble for most cans and dozens of companies make muzzle adapters. The beauty is that it is a fixed system, the spring only provides resistance to keep the tapered lugs in contact, when fired, pressure tightens the system to reduce leaks, and keep a can concentric. There are few downsides, it is fixes, so it won't function with tilt-barrel handguns, and it doesn't work on rifle cals, they overheat the spring and it allows play and can risk a baffle strike, but pistol rounds don't get hot enough to worry about. 3 lug also allows the muzzle device to be torqued, so it doesn't back off, it's fast to use, universal with adapters for most threads and simple.
There is another recent option that is promising, the Griffin cam-loc piston. I have handled one in the shop, and it solves a lot of problems, at least if you haven't already outfitted everything with HK 3 lug, and don't care to shoot handguns suppressed. First is that it has a tapered interface, so the adapter can be torqued down on a barrel, then the taper between the piston and adapter increases surface friction enough that it won't come loose like direct threading. Adapters are available in most threads, so you can swap the can between hosts with different barrel threads without buying or swapping pistons. It's QD, the threads are sectioned so it slides straight on, then 1/4 turn to tighten. It works with tilt-barrel handguns and boosters, but also needs a fixed barrel spacer for PCCs. You have to remove the adapter and re-tourque it ever time you remove and reinstall the barrel.
Sig and Q love to use those stupid tapered shoulders. Some muzzle devices work fine(most 3 lugs), and will torque right down on them, there has to be a back bore, if the threads extend all the way to the rear mating surface it needs an adapter. The tapered shoulder adapters solve the problem, and allow most any muzzle device to be used.
Well, for my first foray into this, I called Rugged. The guys are great and one of them actually answered the phone. Sounds like they work out of a garage.
After that chat, I ordered the 15 dollar slip over adapter so the can will shoulder. And I ordered the Rugged $80 Fixed Mount - M13.5x1LH.
terminology right now has been my big issue. I just don't(didn't)know what's what. I never knew that the mount of the can can be replaced with different threads. I just thought that it had to be something on the barrel to adapt TO the can.
They also told me to use a little teflon tape when screwing the can on to help keep it from backing out.
Just for giggles(and some redundancy I think), I ordered a 13.5mm x 1 LH to 1/2-28 Thread Adapter - Knurled and thread protector cap from Infinite products.
So now I think? I have 2 mounting options. This barrel mounted thread adapter using whatever mount comes with the can and the first mention option.
Now I just want to forget I even ordered this can and be surprised 9 months from now.
After that chat, I ordered the 15 dollar slip over adapter so the can will shoulder. And I ordered the Rugged $80 Fixed Mount - M13.5x1LH.
terminology right now has been my big issue. I just don't(didn't)know what's what. I never knew that the mount of the can can be replaced with different threads. I just thought that it had to be something on the barrel to adapt TO the can.
They also told me to use a little teflon tape when screwing the can on to help keep it from backing out.
Just for giggles(and some redundancy I think), I ordered a 13.5mm x 1 LH to 1/2-28 Thread Adapter - Knurled and thread protector cap from Infinite products.
So now I think? I have 2 mounting options. This barrel mounted thread adapter using whatever mount comes with the can and the first mention option.
Now I just want to forget I even ordered this can and be surprised 9 months from now.
Rugged is good people. Whenever your form 4 clears, you will have the peace of mind of knowing that you have everything you need to use your suppressor correctly on the desired host(s).
One of my weaknesses is ordering cans and assuming I have plenty of time to get the accessories I will need together, then forgetting about everything until the can clears. Two most recent examples:
Decided I wanted a Dead Air Wolfman for a 9mm PCC. Bought one, forgot about it. Can clears right around 4 months, I realized I hadn’t even decided on a host yet. Rule out MP5 clone because I’m a southpaw and I don’t care who you are, southpaws who say MP5s are easy to run fast are lying to themselves. Rule out an MPX because they cost more than I want to spend. Hold out for roller delayed Stribog SP9A3 to see if it’s the one, initial reviews don’t convince me. Finally happen upon an obscure custom build based on CMMG barrel and BCG, decide on that . . . Covidpocalypse means the parts I need are on 6-12 month back orders. Just finally got the thing together a few months ago, couldn’t be happier. And that’s how my Dead Air Wolfman grew a 9mm PCC out of its rear end.
Then there is the story of my salvo 12. Decided I wanted one after shooting them a bunch at several events and really liking them. Cleared in 4 months again, leaving me flat footed. Bought that planning on using a Vepr 12, which I sold when Covid happened because the mags annoy me. And profit = awesome. Start plans to form 1 and mod my 870, can’t get a straight answer on which choke system will work with the meat on my stock barrel, buy a rifled barrel for some reason, scrap the whole project because I decide I want a 590A1 instead. Find a police trade in SBS for cheap, form 4 clears faster than expected (while traveling for work obviously so I can’t do anything about it), scramble to decide choke setup, order accessories, have to wait until I’m home to pull the barrel and send to gunsmith for mods. Someday I’ll have it set up exactly how I want as soon as I can get the side saddle and red dot mount I want.
The moral of the story is that impulse bought suppressors usually grow one or more firearms as hosts, and don’t let my wife read any of this because she would mock me mercilessly for doing dumb stuff with my hobby money. In my defense, these projects I inflict upon myself turn out awesome and the thought (if not planning) that goes into them ends up really showing.
One of my weaknesses is ordering cans and assuming I have plenty of time to get the accessories I will need together, then forgetting about everything until the can clears. Two most recent examples:
Decided I wanted a Dead Air Wolfman for a 9mm PCC. Bought one, forgot about it. Can clears right around 4 months, I realized I hadn’t even decided on a host yet. Rule out MP5 clone because I’m a southpaw and I don’t care who you are, southpaws who say MP5s are easy to run fast are lying to themselves. Rule out an MPX because they cost more than I want to spend. Hold out for roller delayed Stribog SP9A3 to see if it’s the one, initial reviews don’t convince me. Finally happen upon an obscure custom build based on CMMG barrel and BCG, decide on that . . . Covidpocalypse means the parts I need are on 6-12 month back orders. Just finally got the thing together a few months ago, couldn’t be happier. And that’s how my Dead Air Wolfman grew a 9mm PCC out of its rear end.
Then there is the story of my salvo 12. Decided I wanted one after shooting them a bunch at several events and really liking them. Cleared in 4 months again, leaving me flat footed. Bought that planning on using a Vepr 12, which I sold when Covid happened because the mags annoy me. And profit = awesome. Start plans to form 1 and mod my 870, can’t get a straight answer on which choke system will work with the meat on my stock barrel, buy a rifled barrel for some reason, scrap the whole project because I decide I want a 590A1 instead. Find a police trade in SBS for cheap, form 4 clears faster than expected (while traveling for work obviously so I can’t do anything about it), scramble to decide choke setup, order accessories, have to wait until I’m home to pull the barrel and send to gunsmith for mods. Someday I’ll have it set up exactly how I want as soon as I can get the side saddle and red dot mount I want.
The moral of the story is that impulse bought suppressors usually grow one or more firearms as hosts, and don’t let my wife read any of this because she would mock me mercilessly for doing dumb stuff with my hobby money. In my defense, these projects I inflict upon myself turn out awesome and the thought (if not planning) that goes into them ends up really showing.
Is Teflon tape good enough?
As a prophylactic? No.
That's why I love this forum. The wealth of personal experience is amazing.
Lol. I’ve never had a problem with LH threads backing off. Teflon tape sounds like a good idea! I’m going to throw a roll in my range bag.
I used to wrap it around my joint so it didn't come out. Err, I don't think that came out right.
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,992
That's supposed be the beauty of the LH threading. The vortex caused the fired round through a right hand twist barrel causes the can the self tighten.
(at least that's what I've been told. Mine never comes loose)
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