How do you zero your scope?

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  • smokey

    2A TEACHER
    Jan 31, 2008
    31,412
    There's a whole lot of variables involved to give an answer that is helpful. What is the gun, what is the optic, what is the cartridge(external ballistics like velocity, and BC are somewhat important), what is the anticipated range of use, and what types of activities are you planning on using the gun for.


    For example, my 300 blk AR with a red dot...

    I initially boresighted it by yanking the upper off, yanking out the BCG, dialing in a rail-mounted laser at 25 yds to the center of the bore(look down the barrel from the chamber end and adjust the laser until it is in the center of the bore), the I adjusted the red dot to the laser at 25 yds. Once I got to the range, I verified the 25 yr zero and then pushed to 50 and re-zero'd for 50 yards.

    The rationale for this is that the gun is primarily set up to be a defensive weapon to be used inside of 150 yards. In that range, a 50 yard zero will ensure the impact will be within roughly 1" of the point of aim. A 25 yard zero would vary by 6" or so. If I had a low power variable optic on it, and planned on pushing defensive use out further to 300 yards, then the 25 yard zero would have substantially less deviation.

    Now if it were a precision build intended for slow and accurate fire out to 700+ yards, I'd probably use something like 100 yard zero and then dial the scope in for elevation based on data from previous shots.
     

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    smokey

    2A TEACHER
    Jan 31, 2008
    31,412
    ...I see that this is under "air guns"...oops. same concepts, but smaller.
     

    Outta Air

    Active Member
    Dec 28, 2015
    512
    Exactly where I want to be
    Yes, smokey, for airguns...especially since I can't buy firarms :lol2::lol2::lol2: But thanks for the input!

    The way I found that's worked very well for me, is once I get done with the collimator, I set up target out at about 25 yards. Aim for the bulls eye and take a shot and see where it landed. After that, aim again at the bulls eye and adjust the reticle to that spot. With my little Benjamin .22, I can put the pellet in a 1/2" hole from 25 yards time after time barring any radical changes in shooting conditions. Don't know how that'll work at 100 yrds but we'll see once we get up to Elk Neck. But if the conditions are close to consistent, I just use the old Kentucky windage method to make the adjustments. :rolleyes:
     
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    SKIP

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 5, 2009
    3,248
    Glenwood/Glenelg
    I do it the old school method.
    I set the biggest target frame I have at 25 yards.
    If it's a bolt gun I remove the bolt and look down the bore and then look through the sights. Make adjustments.
    Fire shots until on 10 ring.
    Then move to 50 yards and make adjustments.
    Then at 100 yards.

    I usually sight in a new rifle on a week day at the AGC.
    It isn't busy and cease fires are agreed upon by fellow shooters.
    If you go on a weekend you have to wait for the 30 minutes intervals to relocate your frame.
     
    If I can look down the bore I put the rifle in a benchrest Center the bore on the bullseye at 25 yards and then adjust the reticle to the same point. That generally will get me close enough that all I have to do is make some minor adjustments at 50 or 100. If I can't look down the bore.. I have a laser bore sighter that will get me on paper at 25 yards but I don't like to use it. I have found that regardless of where the laser beam strikes the target the point of impact is usually not even close. I usually have to make more radical adjustments when using that method. I have also use the Army method where are you lock the rifle into a rest fire one round and then make the reticle adjustment to that point of impact.
     

    Mark75H

    MD Wear&Carry Instructor
    Industry Partner
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 25, 2011
    17,173
    Outside the Gates
    I've never had an airgun that wasn't at least on the paper. Maybe I've just been lucky mounting scopes.
     

    BigTinBoat

    Active Member
    Jan 12, 2016
    335
    Eastern Baltimore County
    Scott,
    I use Chairgun to find my "optimum zero" for a 1/2" kill zone. Basically I zero at a yardage that the POI will be 1/4" below the arc. In the attached pic you will see that based on my scope height, pellet, velocity, etc my optimum (near) zero is 19 yards. This will give me a 36yd "far zero. With my gun zero like this I can hold dead on anywhere between 15 and 40yds knowing that my POI will be no more then 1/4" high or 1/4" low. This is what I use for squirrel hunting. If the squirrel is closer I hold 1/2" high. If it is farther I usually don't take the shot. If I have a steay rest and a clear shot then I will use my range card for hold over. I have one for each of my guns. All are .22 but based on velocity and scope height the zero will be off by a couple of yards. Of course the higher the scope and the faster the pellet the longer my "dead hold" range will be.

    https://www.mdshooters.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=257571&stc=1&d=1554595963
     

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    Outta Air

    Active Member
    Dec 28, 2015
    512
    Exactly where I want to be
    Great analysis, Rob. But I'm just a target shooter, LOL. Your shots have to be "DEAD" accurate, no pun intended...of course. If mine misses, I hit backstop or it goes til the pellet hits the ground. But I absolutely get what you're saying. But if I decide to go hunting, I will be calling on you sometime. Just don't hold your breath, or the air in the tank :lol::lol::lol:

    Unless it's rabid, or attacking me, the wife or the dogs :mad54::mad54:or is trespassing because of an irresponsible owner, well, you know the rest :innocent0
     
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    BigTinBoat

    Active Member
    Jan 12, 2016
    335
    Eastern Baltimore County
    Great analysis, Rob. But I'm just a target shooter, LOL. Your shots have to be "DEAD" accurate, no pun intended...of course. If mine misses, I hit backstop or it goes til the pellet hits the ground. But I absolutely get what you're saying. But if I decide to go hunting, I will be calling on you sometime. Just don't hold your breath, or the air in the tank :lol::lol::lol:

    Unless it's rabid, or attacking me, the wife or the dogs :mad54::mad54:or is trespassing because of an unresponsible own, well, you know the rest :innocent0

    In that case I would zero at the peak (based on chairgun). Then at that yardage you will be dead on, and everything will be hold "overs", no hold "unders". (easier to remember that way)
    And if using a mildot scope you can zero using the very top mildot and have a bunch more hold over points. With the gun I have shown above, my lowest mildot, when on 24x is only good for 62 yard. I have to lower the power to 8x to shoot at 100yds. If I zero at 25yds on the top mildot then the bottom dot will be dead on at 100yds at about 15x.
     

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