What to look for in a 1903 Springfield

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  • Bertfish

    Throw bread on me
    Mar 13, 2013
    17,586
    White Marsh, MD
    Always wanted a 1903 but I've seen pricing all over the place for them. What am I looking for in an 03 if I wanted one as a nice rifle but not a safe queen? Obviously matching numbers and general condition but is there anything else specific I oughta watch out for? I know about the lower number receiver issues.

    Preferred variant word be the 03A3. I like the square trigger guard appearance more.
     

    bpm32

    Active Member
    Nov 26, 2010
    675
    Not really anything to be wary of with 03A3s. There are a lot of them out there in great condition. All of the issues with the 03 had long been worked out (heat treat, mag floor plate, etc) and the 2-groove barrels are just as accurate. The sights are better for older eyes as well. A lot of the ones out there are DCM/CMP rifles, with a few being from the very first NRA releases.
     

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,257
    HoCo
    If you end up going to Chantilly show, look for a single table Ruger's Lugers. Its sorta in the front to the right near the concession stand. The guy is honest and usually has a few 1903's of various versions. He'll be totally honest about what he's selling. If you want an original and want a shooter, bring a bore gauge and/or bore light.
    My Smith Corona 1903a3 had a mint bore and almost no muzzle wear with those 1903a3 sights, its my most accurate bolt milsurp with iron sights.
    IT was about $100 more than the other ones he had with more worn bores. IT was I recall $800 about 4 years ago.
     

    TheOriginalMexicanBob

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 2, 2017
    31,902
    Sun City West, AZ
    All '03 rifles are awesome but I agree that the '03A3 is more user friendly...if due to the sights if nothing else. My preference is for the Smith-Corona examples...they went above and beyond to prove they could build an excellent rifle. In my experience the Remington's are fine but the Smith-Coronas are better machined but they all do the same job as a combat rifle equally.

    You'll have an easier time time finding a really good condition '03A3 than a '03. Many of the '03A3 rifles never left the US during the war so they never saw as many rebuilds...but both the '03 and '03A3 saw far more action than commonly thought of in WWII. Many think the M1 Garand and M1 Carbine did all the infantry fighting because of movies and television but the 1903 was pretty liberally spread around as well...it was in the Army's TO&E requirements for several reasons...sniping, grenade launching, etc. Some units in Italy used them completely through the war.

    My uncle who was in the first wave on Omaha Beach said he was disgusted with his M1 Carbine due to its light round..."I hit that sumbitch three times and I bet he's still running!" He said he dumped the Carbine when he picked up an '03 and used that until he was taken out by a mortar round outside of St. Lo.

    A hint...if you can find any '03 or '03A3 with a full pistol grip C-stock it's worth a premium as it makes for a better controllable and pleasant rifle to shoot.
     

    SmokeEaterPilot

    Active Member
    Jun 3, 2011
    524
    Are you looking for a M1903 or M1903A3. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to pick up a decent representative piece for more than 600-1200.

    For M1903s, high number serial numbers (or "overs" if you go with what the USMC called them) in a prewar C stocks tend hold the most value, receiver that can be shot without an heated debate and the C stocks are very desirable for shooters.

    If you're looking for just an example shoot me a PM, I'm probably going to be selling one of mine here in the next week or so. Have to fund a new purchase.
     

    tinydata

    Active Member
    Jul 29, 2011
    206
    Potomac
    Working off the assumption you're looking for a shooter-

    I would start with barrel condition. Is it pitted? How are the muzzle and throat erosion measurements? A good barrel is one of the bedrocks of good performance.

    The C stock is arguably the most comfortable for shooting use. There are two variants. Drawing number 1836, more commonly known as the pre-war C stock, is widely regarded as the finest shooting stock designed for the 03. During WW2, Keystone supplied additional C stocks made to a different, thicker design. One issue of note is the quality of fitting. The prewar C stocks are typically carefully fitted to the action, whereas the Keystones vary in fit. There are other factors that affect accuracy, but that is a very in-depth topic.

    As for the 03A3 for 03 debate: I see each rifle possessing advantages relating to the sights. For the original 03, the 1905 sight is infinitely adjustable (no clicks) and offers a very small aperture that is conducive to shooting tiny groups. For the 03A3, it loses the finesse of the 03 sight but gains repeatable clicks and a larger aperture that seems to be less sensitive to changes in lighting.
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    Heres two reference pictures for what you may see if you come across a drill rifle.
    This one escaped damage to the upper cut off area and still has remnants of the wire used to weld them around the cut off spindle. You can grind all the old wire out and weld up/refinish as you see fit. I like to leave the damage obvious so no-one is deceived in the future.
    Second picture shows a stub that has had the weld penetrate into the receiver face. Any remaining metal needs to be carefully removed to the original receiver face. Receivers with serious damage should be carefully examined for additional defects that would render them completely unsafe so shooter beware.
    Drill rifles should probably be considered for sporter/clone candidates or display rifles only these days. I know of no way to be entirely sure the receivers are completely safe although they have been marketed in decent numbers the last few years from one or more companies.
    I re-barreled a few of them in the past with new in the wrap barrels. The one in the first picture I did just last week. I file check the weld area near the bottom of the barrel to see if it skips and then make sure the replacement barrel threads in by hand to nearly a 1/4 inch from final index with no obscene tight spots.
    I see a lot of a3's on the cmp forum, they have steadily increased in price the last few years but every now and then a reasonably priced one shows up.
    Good luck in your search.

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