rust bluing?

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  • lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,678
    So for my SKS project I am looking at a top cover that is a bit rusted. From what I can see of the pictures, there is no or almost no pitting, but evident light rusting starting. I've cold blued stuff plenty of times and though I've gotten it to look nice with the paste, the bluing isn't particularly durable. I am wondering if anyone has tried rust bluing and their thoughts?

    I figured this could be a good project for me to try as the part is relatively small. Should I try to strip the existing bluing off completely before rusting and boiling? Or should I just clean up the existing rust (and if it takes off some bluing, so be it), apply the rusting solution, boil, steel wool, rinse and repeat as necessary?

    Most top covers I've seen on eBay all have some degree of finish wear and I figure I might as well try to clean one up. My current SKS metal is in nearly unworn shape and this one is going to be a deer rifle with a scout scope setup to knock around the woods, but I would like to learn some new techniques.


    Thoughts? Should I just clean up the rust and cold blue it?
     

    FrankOceanXray

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 29, 2008
    12,028
    I started this rust bluing for a pair of Ithaca 22s. It is time consuming but the finish is gorgeous. Now just to get those pieces all back together. Whoops.


    If it is a gun you enjoy and will cherish, do the extra leg work and rust blue it. If you enjoy a process for what it is, rust blue it. If it is something you are just looking to finish.. cerakote, paint, blue it however you wish.
     

    Allen65

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 29, 2013
    7,063
    Anne Arundel County
    If you want your rust blued surface to be consistent, you need to start with perfectly clean, bare metal. No existing bluing, and especially no oil of any kind. Degrease, scrub, rinse, repeat. Several times, and with multiple degreasing agents. Polish out scratches with 320 grit wet-n-dry, with some water. The corrosion process that creates rust bluing opens up scratches into what look like trenches.

    OTOH, I actually like restoring to a slightly used look, with minor imperfections. It looks weird to have a perfect barrel on a stock that has, um, character.
     

    rob-cubed

    In need of moderation
    Sep 24, 2009
    5,387
    Holding the line in Baltimore
    Agreed with others, rust bluing can be fabulous but time consuming. Depending on the exact finish of the original rifle, spot cold blue with some blending will likely be better. Either way, all flavors of bluing are decorative finish, not a protective one.

    I'd consider the choice to rust blue a labor of love for a collectible rifle and not a "working man's" choice. And if it's collectible and not the perfect finish then you just ruined the topcover anyway. A few bits of flash rust in the original finish would be better.
     

    Allen65

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 29, 2013
    7,063
    Anne Arundel County
    Either way, all flavors of bluing are decorative finish, not a protective one.

    They're not very protective by themselves, but they do increase surface energy and surface area so that oil can wet out and adhere better than to bare, polished ferrous metals. It's the oil that does the protective work keeping water away from iron, either with bluing in any form or Parkerizing.
     

    tony7815

    Member
    Feb 11, 2016
    30
    I've used Blue Wonder Gun Black with great success. I find it works better if the metal is heated higher than that recommended prior to applying the gun black liquid.
     

    Oswaldo87

    Active Member
    Feb 1, 2020
    151
    Frederick County
    No reason to strip existing bluing off. Will depend on how many times you rust blue to get the desired or matching color. If it’s just some speckles, rub with a oil impregnated fine steel or brass wool.
    If you decide to attempt this project, I highly suggest doing the steam method. I invested in a tank but love the steam pipe much better. It’s pretty much an 4” exhaust steel pipe riveted to the lid of an old pot. Hang the items or throw the small parts in the pot. Lot easier than boiling 4-7 gallons of water.
     

    PTM76

    Active Member
    Oct 30, 2007
    131
    Rust bluing is surprisingly easy, and produces a beautiful finish. It is very time consuming though.

    I got a Star BM frame for free, and I rust blued it, then built up the gun from a parts kit I got for cheap. $150 bucks and time. I did about 7 cycles of rusting so I got it really deep and dark. I used the laurel mountain forge stuff.

    The chrome kept my phone from getting a good pic, but I assure you the frame looked like hammered shit before. I also did the safety, hammer, and other small parts.

    jL7byIg.jpg
     

    PTM76

    Active Member
    Oct 30, 2007
    131
    Agreed with others, rust bluing can be fabulous but time consuming. Depending on the exact finish of the original rifle, spot cold blue with some blending will likely be better. Either way, all flavors of bluing are decorative finish, not a protective one.

    I'd consider the choice to rust blue a labor of love for a collectible rifle and not a "working man's" choice. And if it's collectible and not the perfect finish then you just ruined the topcover anyway. A few bits of flash rust in the original finish would be better.


    Bluing is actually a slightly protective finish, which is why it is done. You are covering a surface with converted oxide, which helps the metal resist easy oxidation.

    But it will rust! I just mean articulate that to say it is not a protective finish is just slightly inaccurate.... slightly.
     

    OldSchool1959

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 9, 2012
    874
    Anne Arundel County
    Rust bluing is surprisingly easy, and produces a beautiful finish. It is very time consuming though.

    I got a Star BM frame for free, and I rust blued it, then built up the gun from a parts kit I got for cheap. $150 bucks and time. I did about 7 cycles of rusting so I got it really deep and dark. I used the laurel mountain forge stuff.

    The chrome kept my phone from getting a good pic, but I assure you the frame looked like hammered shit before. I also did the safety, hammer, and other small parts.

    I like the way your Star frame came out. I have two Stars, a B and a BM that need to be refinished. Did you use the Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown & Degreaser? If so, do you think their small bottle is enough to do two frames and slides?
     

    PTM76

    Active Member
    Oct 30, 2007
    131
    I like the way your Star frame came out. I have two Stars, a B and a BM that need to be refinished. Did you use the Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown & Degreaser? If so, do you think their small bottle is enough to do two frames and slides?

    Thats exactly what I used, and that small bottle goes a very long way. I would say that you could easily do 2 frames and maybe one slide with it.
     

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