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Old September 17th, 2021, 07:27 AM #31
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Originally Posted by teratos View Post
I have used moly resin on a couple of lowers. Holds op pretty well. Not as durable as Cerakote.

I got a DC power supply from Amazon. I use salt and water. Typically I try to enclose the entire area to be etched so I can make a water reservoir. I’ll either fold tape, or make a “lake” with modeling clay. Black on lower, and use an old drill bit or other metal in the red. Put the metal in the water, and off it goes.
I’d seen some guys using hot glue to form a “dam” - but yeah that will absolutely work with vinyl. What kind of depth are you getting on aluminium? I ended up going with a purpose built machine to make sure I could get sufficient depth on stainless but AFAIK a lawnmower battery will get good results on relatively softer metal. Are you sure about the polarity? My machine clips on red and black does the etching (though I intentionally state color rather than polarity because my machine switches between ac and dc to mark and etch respectively and I’ll be candid that I don’t know if they utilize the same polarity [second] though I understand the mechanism of action on AC it wouldn’t matter)?
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Old September 17th, 2021, 07:34 AM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIBarrister View Post
I’d seen some guys using hot glue to form a “dam” - but yeah that will absolutely work with vinyl. What kind of depth are you getting on aluminium? I ended up going with a purpose built machine to make sure I could get sufficient depth on stainless but AFAIK a lawnmower battery will get good results on relatively softer metal. Are you sure about the polarity? My machine clips on red and black does the etching (though I intentionally state color rather than polarity because my machine switches between ac and dc to mark and etch respectively and I’ll be candid that I don’t know if they utilize the same polarity [second] though I understand the mechanism of action on AC it wouldn’t matter)?
You are right, I reversed polarity. (it was early). Black for etching. I get very good depth. Sufficient for NFA an perfect for what I want. If you keep going, the etching eventually gets a little "fuzzy: I've never done marking, but it makes sense. Reverse polarity and instead of metal being chewed through, it gets laid down.

I have THIS

No clue of the settings, I just turn it up to 11 and it works.

Dogfight Ink will miss me. I've spent hundreds.
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Old September 17th, 2021, 08:09 AM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teratos View Post
You are right, I reversed polarity. (it was early). Black for etching. I get very good depth. Sufficient for NFA an perfect for what I want. If you keep going, the etching eventually gets a little "fuzzy: I've never done marking, but it makes sense. Reverse polarity and instead of metal being chewed through, it gets laid down.

I have THIS

No clue of the settings, I just turn it up to 11 and it works.

Dogfight Ink will miss me. I've spent hundreds.
To be fair, I just crank my machine to the highest setting; it is not marked to identify volatage/amperes. But it will heat up the part very fast. 150f at least within 15 seconds. As I think on it, your dam method will work pretty darn good with vinyl stencils (and without concern of displacing the small interior bits).

I contemplated trying cerakote but my understanding is it is far less forgiving and much easier to overspray and be left with a layer that could potentially mess with tolerances. Seeing they had a color that might match my PVD parts sealed the deal
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