Help Identifiying a Mauser(?)

Nay_sayer · Feb 10, 2018

I got bored assembling ARs and decided to buy something ugly, older and bubba’d to work with and make into a fun shooter. I settled on the this rifle as it was a Mauser (I think) so parts should be cheap and available, it was cheap, it looked workable and is (supposedly) already converted to 7.62x51 which is a caliber I already have. I did remove the horrible red thumb hole stock for good the minute I got the rifle home

The rifle was labeled as a “Waffen Fabrike” Mauser 7.62x51 -Bubba Gun- at my LGS and it indeed does have some markings that say “...nsfabrike...” which I assume is Waffensfabriken/DWM and also what appears to be a faint “Berlin” with only the bottom half really visible. It’s kinda hard to read all of this around the holes bubba drilled for a scope mount and the pitting. One of the old-guy regulars at my LGS said that it was an M96 Mauser. The serial number is 187 so I’m guessing it’s an early version of whatever it is. My LGS was happy to talk with me about what they knew of the gun but they got it with a bunch of other ugly bubba guns and didn’t know much about it.

I don’t know squat about Mausers that I haven’t read on the internet over the last couple of days but I don’t see the cut out on the left side of the action just in front of the bolt removal lever that I’ve seen on the M96’s online. Can one of you please tell me what this rifle actually is?

iH8DemLibz · Feb 10, 2018

Doco Overboard · Feb 10, 2018

Looks like a m93 to 95. Unbubba the holes in the side of the receiver by heating up plug screws red hot, let them cool and after grinding the screw slot smooth thread them into the holes and peen them over and file flush. If your really ambitious spot weld them over and then smooth out with a file. Or....... beat some 3 1/2% nickle brazing rod around the circumference of the softened plug screw cold welding them, smooth then blue to finish nicely.

Nay_sayer · Feb 10, 2018

Doco Overboard said:
Looks like a m93 to 95. Unbubba the holes in the side of the receiver by heating up plug screws red hot, let them cool and after grinding the screw slot smooth thread them into the holes and peen them over and file flush. If your really ambitious spot weld them over and then smooth out with a file. Or....... beat some 3 1/2% nickle brazing rod around the circumference of the softened plug screw cold welding them, smooth then blue to finish nicely.

Thanks, Doco! I knew someone would be able to help.

There are 4 boogered up plug screws that came in those holes on the side so I will try your heat, peen and file suggestion. I don’t think my buzz-box would be any good to spot weld those tiny plugs

Abulg1972 · Feb 18, 2018

There’s no way to tell much of anything based on your pictures. Are there any markings on the bolt knob (it looks like there might be something)?

Doco Overboard · Feb 18, 2018

Abulg1972 said:
There’s no way to tell much of anything based on your pictures. Are there any markings on the bolt knob (it looks like there might be something)?

Its a m93 Spanish action without push-button floor plate release. First production Mauser with staggered two row magazine. Some early bolts are square faced on the bottom. 95 actions are milled to receive such bolts.
Its also the first Mauser to use keyed lug quick disassembly firing pin and cocking piece with trigger/sear/bolt safety interlock system. Not to mention non rotating claw extractor.
Some of the important safety features designed into the bolt safety interlock have been disabled on this one because it has a Dayton Traister low scope safety. Looks like it has a Leonard Brownell bolt knob fitted to it as well. Using to much heat during the welding forging process can affect the heat treating of the cocking ramp which in turn can affect firing pin protrusion.
Bolt quarter cocks on opening in its unaltered state and lacks the gas control safety measures found on the later 98's.
Some Spanish receivers are soft in the bolt lug engagement areas and are prone to set back. Whether its from firing CETME ammo, 7.62 or not is up for debate. Its a low pressure action, some are soft some are not. Sometimes you can feel it during bolt lift or by doing a visual on the bolt lugs after removing the barrel. Doesn't mean its dangerous, it just means the gas control measures are not there and HS problems could creep up on an unsuspecting shooter.
Shooters/hand-loaders can do their own risk assessment. Cumulative HS problems in concert with excess firing pin protrusion can lead to problems in a not so well maintained rifle due to the design of the bolt and the removal of the bolt safety interlock system as well as galling at the cocking ramp area, poorly planned and executed trigger mods etc etc.

K-43 · Feb 18, 2018

You've got the basics already done. Already D&T's and that bolt handle looks pretty good.

If you want to stay low in pressure, the Hodgdon's reloading website shows starting loads going 2600fps to over 2700 fps with pressures under 46k C.U.P. and 50k Piezzo PSI. H4895 is my favorite for these. Equal or better than 300 Savage with more common brass.
And then there is always cast bullets, where you'll stay under 30k PSI.

Nay_sayer · Feb 18, 2018

I appreciate the continued help on what this is (was?). I’m taking it slow with this project as I am just doing it for a fun way to alleviate boredom. I’m not even sure yet exactly what it’ll be when it’s done.

I don’t reload/handload and don’t really have much desire to start so hopefully factory ammo is not a problem.

Abulg1972 · Feb 18, 2018

It’s got a Swedish bolt release on it. That’s something, alright.

iH8DemLibz · Feb 18, 2018

That thing looks like the receiver/bolt/bolt release/shroud combination found on 1916 Spanish Mausers. 1896 receivers I think.

It has what looks like a wide stripper clip slot. Not the narrow clip slot found on most Mausers.

I don't think it's a '93 receiver. 1893 Mausers had split rear receiver bridges. Right half solid. Left half clip accepting area and half bolt release lever. The clip part pivoted with the bolt release.

Doco Overboard · Feb 18, 2018

Its a m93-95 Mauser action, no where near a 94-96, arguably the best heat treated and manufactured Mauser's made. One year Ludwig Lowe made 7.65's for the Turks. Maybe that's why it has the wide clip loading slot. Most Lowe actions have the push button bottom release though. 93-96 actions also breech up against the face of the receiver like the cousin Springfields. 93-95's have thin rings that are easily distorted or are already warped from heat treating. No secondary shoulder to add strength like the 98. Barrel stubs are small ring .980 diameter x .645"L 12TPI. US barrels have 60 degree us standard threads.

Nay_sayer · Feb 18, 2018

Here is the floor plate. It has a button that I can push but it doesn’t release the floor plate. Or I’m not pushing it enough. I had to take the pin and the button assembly out to clean it and reassemble it.

Nay_sayer · Feb 18, 2018

Here is the bolt and bolt handle. No marks other than what’s left of the beginning of the one on the bottom where it’s now bent.

tony b · Feb 18, 2018

Enjoy the challenge of re bubbafying the rifle. Your can start with a clean slate and make it what you want. Show pics when done.

iH8DemLibz · Feb 18, 2018

On the forward most part of the plate, there is a tongue on the plate and a groove in the receiver.

Push the button in with a bullet and pull the plate rearward toward the trigger guard. The plate will pop up due to magazine spring pressure.

Doco Overboard · Feb 18, 2018

Should be a 93, the bolt is squared off at the bottom. If I remember correctly,and if you want to swap out the bolt your going to need one just like it. The 7.65's made for the Turks had a magazine cut off so that's not it for the charger guide.

K-43 · Feb 19, 2018

Picture #2 shows it was manufactured by Deutsche Waffen und Munitionsfabriken Aktien-Gesellschaft (DWM) in Berlin, Germany. Not Spanish steel, not poorly made. DWM Model 95 bolt faces were round. So it's a German (DWM) made Model 1893.

Abulg1972 · Feb 19, 2018

K-43 said:
Picture #2 shows it was manufactured by Deutsche Waffen und Munitionsfabriken Aktien-Gesellschaft (DWM) in Berlin, Germany. Not Spanish steel, not poorly made. DWM Model 95 bolt faces were round. So it's a German (DWM) made Model 1893.

yep

Abulg1972 · Feb 19, 2018

Doco Overboard said:
Its a m93-95 Mauser action, no where near a 94-96, arguably the best heat treated and manufactured Mauser's made. One year Ludwig Lowe made 7.65's for the Turks. Maybe that's why it has the wide clip loading slot. Most Lowe actions have the push button bottom release though. 93-96 actions also breech up against the face of the receiver like the cousin Springfields. 93-95's have thin rings that are easily distorted or are already warped from heat treating. No secondary shoulder to add strength like the 98. Barrel stubs are small ring .980 diameter x .645"L 12TPI. US barrels have 60 degree us standard threads.

I honestly am not able to follow a single thing you’ve posted here. Random, incomplete thoughts. I don’t know what you mean by 93-95 and 94-96. Are you talking about Swedish M1894s and Swedish M1896s? DWM didn’t make them.

I’m not trying to be mean; I just honestly cannot follow you. You seem to have a lot of knowledge to share.

Doco Overboard · Feb 19, 2018

Sorry for the confusion, in post 9 it was mentioned that there was a Swedish bolt release involved. My post just indicates there is no mistaking a swede action or associated parts for a 93.
Mauser and its affiliates contract produced more than one type of action for different armies (nations) in overlapping years. The Swedes specked out the arguably the best due to quality of the steel.
Not trying to be mean either but theirs no incomplete thoughts here, I know a little thing or two about Mauser's but not everything because when I first started building rifles I studied them before I built them myself. Part of that is understanding the mechanism your working with.

It's a shame a lot of records were lost due to fires or during the war, but due to the popularity of the platform and the groundbreaking achievements associated with the design there is a lot of published material that can be used as a reference. A myriad were made in all sorts of styles and configurations that does lead to some confusion. Probably due to the fact that the strengths and weakness's of the evolution of the design were implemented into the next model, certain similarities exist between design changes. Even with that, there are a few models in their basic form that are used to establish a type that is used as a standard.

Right now, I'm speaking in turns of Mauser or affiliate built examples, there is also a plethora of civilian offerings to consider as well that can lead to confusion without a certain means of familiarity.

Help Identifiying a Mauser(?)

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