StantonCree
Watch your beer
- Jan 23, 2011
- 23,932
Welp it’s cut and tossing an upper on there doesn’t appear to be any recoil spring hang up
I’ll install the lower parts when kiddo goes to bed
I’ll install the lower parts when kiddo goes to bed
Anyone test fire with a factory Glock gen2 slide?
I believe I used a Gen 2 34 slide on mine. I am not positive but the gun it came off of was a 2 pin model. I only put 150 rounds through it initially but it ran flawlessly. Of course, I cycled it probably a thousand times by hand before getting to the range.
The donor gun is the pink framed 34. GymRatz was nice enough to strip it and sell me just the slide and parts. The slide stop that came with it did not fit the p80 frame so that also leads me to believe it is a Gen 2.
https://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=218334&page=5
This is the slide stop that came with it.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/475555/glock-slide-stop-release-with-spring-glock-17-34-2-pin-model-steel-blue
I had to purchase one of these.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/829847/glock-slide-stop-release-with-spring-glock-17-19-22-23-26-27-31-32-33-34-35-3-pin-model-steel-blue
The pink gun is a gen3 it that was awesome of them to do that for you!!!!
There are 2 pin model Gen 3s?
Well finished mine. Doesn’t seem to be any recoil spring hang up. Loaded up a mag and racked all 15 out, no issues, locked back on last round. Mag drops free, slide fits well.
Just gotta shoot it
Also my gen2 19 slide fits great
When I assembled mine, I didn't get the take down spring all the way down in its slot. It rubbed up against the recoil spring - the gun still functioned, but after another post here talked about the issue, I did manage to get the spring down where it's supposed to go.
So... Caught the bug yet?
Good to know the gen2 19 slide works also.
I just got my all cut and drilled and I am having trouble with the locking block. I read/saw that there are issues with the G17 V2's having tighter tolerances and some people were able to force the locking block in but some were unable to and had to have a replacement sent. Mine is really tight, I was able to force it in with a hammer but was unable to get it to sit flush and line up with the hole for the front pin. Anyone else have the same or a similar issue?
Mine was REALLY tight...tight enough I didn't think it'd go in...
I tapped it in with a small brass hammer. Have you tried anything like that?
My PF940C had the exact same problem with the rear rail. I cleaned out the inside, tapped the rear rail in with a rubber mallet, and then hit the rear holes with a drill very carefully. Problem solved. I think what happens is that drilling the holes perfectly straight with a hand drill is very difficult even with the jig, and so you wind up with a slight angle that makes getting the pin in more difficult. But once you've got the rail in ALL THE WAY, you have another point to line things up with and can straighten out the hole. As long as your rail is ALL the way in when you do this, you should be GTG... in the end, the pin is there to keep the rail in the right place, not vica versa.
If the jig had much longer guides for the drill, I suspect it would go more smoothly, but I see why that would be a packaging issue.
A couple of YT videos, that now are gone, said to install the rail blocks then drill all the way though. IV8888 showed it when they finally did a " how to".