Just started reloading

Major03 · Aug 28, 2018

teratos said:
It also depends on what you are going for. If you want one ragged hole at a kilometer, use a single stage. If you are chugging out thousands of rounds for plinking, then a progressive is the way to go. I loaded up 1000 9mm this weekend in just a couple of hours.

That's true!

Although I'll also posit that for the vast majority of shooters (I put myself in this category) if they set up a decent progressive press and used good dies...they'd shoot just as well as if they used a single stage...DA's point.

AND, they'd get the advantage of producing higher volumes of ammo for the time spent reloading.

All that said, I remain in the single stage camp. I have my old ways and change is hard for me lol

Magnumite · Aug 28, 2018

Calibers you are shooting tend to be high volume calibers. Start considering a progressive. I use a progressive for every caliber...even when developing rifle loads for calibers the press will handle. My single stage has been an odd job, short run type tool for years. Good accurate reliable loads can be loaded on a progressive press. Caveats to that statement are the uber accurate long range and bench rest shooting. You'll find your preference.

Something to think about is buying some factory ammo to shoot for brass and get a base line on recoil character, brass and primer appearance, ejection...yada. Plus you will have brass to reload. I typically fire 100 rounds of high volume caliber factory ammo and 40 rounds of low volume caliber to familiarize myself with performance and what to observe.

ras_oscar · Aug 28, 2018

everybody has their own story. Here's mine

I purchased a Lee 4 stage cast iron turret press. Started with the auto disk powder measure, which worked fine until I added rile calibers. ( auto disk cavities are too small for rifle volumes and I didn't want to train my muscle memory to pull twice) Now I use auto drum powder measure for on press charging. Contrary to the directions I do NOT need the powder riser when using auto drum powder dispenser with my rifle caliber ( currently 308, have dies for 30-06 that I need to set up) I have a Franklin vibratory tumbler with walnut lizard bedding. Bought a 5 pound bag at petsmart for something like $3.00. Toss a dryer sheet every batch which cuts the static electricity and pulls dirt out of the bedding. Don't ask me how many batches the bedding will do because I have never changed it after a couple thousand rounds. I tumble brass before de-priming because I don't want to run a dirty case through my sizing/depriming die and force dirt into it. I like the turret press because I can set up the dies and pull out the entire set when changing calibers, just checking the first few reloads when I resume a given caliber.

Magnumite · Aug 28, 2018

^^^ when the tumbling media gets loaded up enough with debris you'll see the brass is not a bright as it once came out of the tumbler. Some put a couple caps full Brasso in to rejuvenate it and keep the dust down some. I tried it but don't find it worth it. I just change the media at that point.

BW460 · Aug 28, 2018

What teratos said!

BW460 · Aug 28, 2018

I converted a bunch of 300 BLK brass, but as has been mentioned, you can buy it cheap now. Not worth the effort to make it.

You need to learn about crimping. It is half science and half art. Actually it is not the crimp so much as neck tension that is important. In terms of holding the bullet in place, its 80 percent neck tension and 20 percent crimp. Many beginners over crimp. That can buldge the brass away from the bullet and destroy neck tension. Only bell the brass the minimum amount to seat the bullet. That will preserve the neck tension. Dont over crimp!

Pinecone · Aug 29, 2018

1) Not EVERYONE goes to wet tumbling.

If you want really shiny brass, go for it. But it does not make the rounds shoot any better. And it is a LOT more work.

I have been using a vibratory tumbler with corn cob media for over 30 years and am happy with it. And have NO plans or desires to change.

And you might want to Google what happens if you do not get EVERY single pin out of the cases. Plan on buying a new barrel.

PowPow · Aug 30, 2018

Read as much as you can about reloading. Consider a subscription to Handloader magazine. Get yourself several reloading manuals. My favs are Lee, Lyman (e.g. 49 or 50), Hornady, and Speer just came out with a really nice one. Western powders just came out with a decent one too. The more load data you have access to, the more you'll be able to compare for variances in powder, primer, bullet, COL, barrel/firearm, etc.

Make sure that when you load, you are free from distractions and interruptions. The rounds you are making will go into your firearms. What happens after that is your responsibility. Do everything you can to ensure a safe and hopefully accurate outcome.

I dry tumble, because: 1) It works; 2) I don't have to worry about pins; 3) Don't need to buy special liquids; 4) Don't need to dump stuff down the drain; 5) Don't have leaks. Oh, and I don't care if my brass sparkles like brand new.

I like to use a Frankford Arsenal digital scale for quick checks, and check it with my old RCBS 1010. I do need to turn off various lights around my bench when I use the digital, as it seems to keep it from the occasional drift.

Pinecone · Aug 30, 2018

With all these areas, it depends on how many rounds you will load in a session and how many you will load/shoot in a year.

If you are loading 10s to couple of 100 per session, and shoot not much than that a year, a progressive is overkill. So is a Chargemaster.

If you are loading 1000s per session and shooting that much, a progressive is almost a necessity.

I load most of my ammo on a progressive (Dillion 650). My precision rifle loads (shooting out to 1200 yards), I load on a single stage, and use a Chargemaster to dispense each charge.

For most uses, a powder measure is accurate enough. For ball or flake powders, they are VERY consistent. For longer extruded powders, you may need to throw a slightly light charge and trickle up. I have an old Lyman 55 that throws very consistent charges. And the measure on my 650 is great with ball powders (all of my pistol and 5.56 rounds).

One problem with a Chargemaster is, after a while, you get tired of waiting for it to finish, you want to have two of them.

For rifle rounds you ONLY crimp if there is a cannelure, otherwise you will damage your rounds. For most pistol cases, you only want to crimp enough to remove the flare of the mouth. The exception is magnum revolver rounds, that NEED crimping.

outrider58 · Aug 30, 2018

Pinecone said:
With all these areas, it depends on how many rounds you will load in a session and how many you will load/shoot in a year.

If you are loading 10s to couple of 100 per session, and shoot not much than that a year, a progressive is overkill. So is a Chargemaster.

If you are loading 1000s per session and shooting that much, a progressive is almost a necessity.

I load most of my ammo on a progressive (Dillion 650). My precision rifle loads (shooting out to 1200 yards), I load on a single stage, and use a Chargemaster to dispense each charge.

For most uses, a powder measure is accurate enough. For ball or flake powders, they are VERY consistent. For longer extruded powders, you may need to throw a slightly light charge and trickle up. I have an old Lyman 55 that throws very consistent charges. And the measure on my 650 is great with ball powders (all of my pistol and 5.56 rounds).

One problem with a Chargemaster is, after a while, you get tired of waiting for it to finish, you want to have two of them.

For rifle rounds you ONLY crimp if there is a cannelure, otherwise you will damage your rounds. For most pistol cases, you only want to crimp enough to remove the flare of the mouth. The exception is magnum revolver rounds, that NEED crimping.

Agreed, for the most part. Here's where I differ(Bold). I too use a CM 1500 for my "precision" loads, generally consisting of extruded powders. If you can develop a two case system when loading from the 1500, you'll never have to wait. To wit. All case are primed;

A) Charge the first case, then put in the press.

B) Charge the second case. While this is happening, press the bullet into the first case. Throw first case into case gauge, then...

C) Move the second case into the press while charging the third case.

It may sound confusing at first, but the idea is to never have to wait for the Charge Master to refill and never skip a case while charging. You always have only two cases in rotation at one time. It actually moves very smoothly.

For plinking ammo, buy a Dillon 550 or 650. I can load 200 rounds in about 20 minutes. Rifle caliber(necked), I pre-prep. Pistol caliber, I clean and run them them straight through my Dillon.

Tip: I dry tumble my brass. Use a CLEAN unused drier sheet for the first three tumbles. After that, no more dust.

Tip: Always case lube your brass before running in the tumbler. Franklin Arsenal. It cleans the brass better than anything else I've used.

PowPow · Aug 30, 2018

outrider58 said:
Tip: Always case lube your brass before running in the tumbler. Franklin Arsenal. It cleans the brass better than anything else I've used.

Do you spray Dillon case lube on the bunch before throwing them in?

Pinecone · Aug 30, 2018

outrider58 said:
I too use a CM 1500 for my "precision" loads, generally consisting of extruded powders. If you can develop a two case system when loading from the 1500, you'll never have to wait. To wit. All case are primed;

A) Charge the first case, then put in the press.

B) Charge the second case. While this is happening, press the bullet into the first case. Throw first case into case gauge, then...

C) Move the second case into the press while charging the third case.

It may sound confusing at first, but the idea is to never have to wait for the Charge Master to refill and never skip a case while charging. You always have only two cases in rotation at one time. It actually moves very smoothly.

I pick up primed case, add powder, set pan back on 1500 to refill, put in press, put on bullet, stroke press to seat the bullet. Put loaded round in cartridge box, pick up next case and wait for the 1500 it finish its thing.

And yes, I have made the changes to the settings to run longer flat out to fill faster.

This is with a 40 - 45 grain charge. Smaller charges would be better. Larger worse.

I still need two to not have to wait.

I tumble with corn cob media with mainly Dillon Polish. I use pet litter for tumbling loaded rounds of .45 brass. Lyman media for others. It is much smaller grains, so does not get stuck in the case like the pet litter does.

outrider58 · Aug 31, 2018

PowPow said:
Do you spray Dillon case lube on the bunch before throwing them in?

Franklin Arsenal case lube. Let it dry before tossing them in. I learned this by accident. I normally clean my range brass(not pickups. I don't use unknown brass) in walnut medium before decapping and sizing. I spray lube all my necked cases, then prep them. Then I tumble again before loading. I began to notice how much shinier the brass is when I use the lube. I could tumble for days and never get my brass that clean and shiny.

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Neutron · Aug 31, 2018

No tumbler needed

Actually from what I've seen and read, you do not really need to tumble brass before reloading. Tumbling brass is mainly for esthetics. I just put the brass in a jar with water and a little laundry detergent,shake it up and let it sit awhile. Repeat that a few times, rinse well,spread out on a towel and let dry for a day or two.

Pinecone · Aug 31, 2018

No, tumbling is not needed. I loaded for years before getting a tumbler.

But it is faster than washing and drying. I toss most brass in for 10 - 15 minutes to remove dirt and junk to protect my dies.

Then for rifle rounds (that have to be lubed), I toss them in for another 10 - 15 to remove the lube.

MindTheGAP · Aug 31, 2018

ras_oscar said:
everybody has their own story. Here's mine

I purchased a Lee 4 stage cast iron turret press. Started with the auto disk powder measure, which worked fine until I added rile calibers. ( auto disk cavities are too small for rifle volumes and I didn't want to train my muscle memory to pull twice) Now I use auto drum powder measure for on press charging. Contrary to the directions I do NOT need the powder riser when using auto drum powder dispenser with my rifle caliber ( currently 308, have dies for 30-06 that I need to set up) I have a Franklin vibratory tumbler with walnut lizard bedding. Bought a 5 pound bag at petsmart for something like $3.00. Toss a dryer sheet every batch which cuts the static electricity and pulls dirt out of the bedding. Don't ask me how many batches the bedding will do because I have never changed it after a couple thousand rounds. I tumble brass before de-priming because I don't want to run a dirty case through my sizing/depriming die and force dirt into it. I like the turret press because I can set up the dies and pull out the entire set when changing calibers, just checking the first few reloads when I resume a given caliber.

I use a Franklin Armory hand deprimer right now (just went through 1,000 223 the other night, hands are sore) so in the case of hand depriming where I'm not dirtying up a die, would you recommend depriming before dry tumbling or after? I've read that cleaning the flash hole / primer pockets out of dry media can be a real PITA.

MindTheGAP · Aug 31, 2018

outrider58 said:
Franklin Arsenal case lube. Let it dry before tossing them in. I learned this by accident. I normally clean my range brass(not pickups. I don't use unknown brass) in walnut medium before decapping and sizing. I spray lube all my necked cases, then prep them. Then I tumble again before loading. I began to notice how much shinier the brass is when I use the lube. I could tumble for days and never get my brass that clean and shiny.

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So in my case, I decapped the bulk of my 223 brass already, haven't tumbled yet. Should I be spraying them before I tumble for cleanliness, or is it dual function in that it's also making resizing in the dies smoother (in which case I'd think you could spray AFTER cleaning?) ? I'm a noob - just asking.

outrider58 · Aug 31, 2018

MindTheGAP said:
So in my case, I decapped the bulk of my 223 brass already, haven't tumbled yet. Should I be spraying them before I tumble for cleanliness, or is it dual function in that it's also making resizing in the dies smoother (in which case I'd think you could spray AFTER cleaning?) ? I'm a noob - just asking.

I tumble first thing after a range trip. Then I lube, decap, resize & trim, clean primer pockets, and then tumble again. The second tumbling is to remove the lube. At that point, they are ready to be loaded.

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Speed3 · Aug 31, 2018

outrider58 said:
I tumble first thing after a range trip. Then I lube, decap, resize & trim, clean primer pockets, and then tumble again. The second tumbling is to remove the lube. At that point, they are ready to be loaded.

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Exactly what I do as well

outrider58 · Aug 31, 2018

Brass polish can be very expensive. Save your money and make your own. Buy a bottle of Nu Finish car polish and a bottle of mineral spirits. Mix a small glob of the polish in about an ounce of mineral spirits so that it flows. Pour that into the vibratory tumbler on your final tumble.

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Just started reloading

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