Nikon BDC Rifle scope
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davsco
Ultimate Member
not sure which model you're talking about. i have two of the black fx1000 first focal plane 4-16x50 with moa reticles on hunting rifles. haven't used them extensively but seem to be pretty nice for the money. believe they also make them with bdc reticles.
i think you'll find that most of the bdc lines won't necessarily match your drops at 200, 300, 400 yds etc, at least that's been my experience with bdc reticles, so you still need to shoot it at various distances and see where you're actually hitting.
i think you'll find that most of the bdc lines won't necessarily match your drops at 200, 300, 400 yds etc, at least that's been my experience with bdc reticles, so you still need to shoot it at various distances and see where you're actually hitting.
Those circles don’t necessarily match the yardage advertised. They even tell you that in the owner’s manual, as those BDC circles are developed for one specific load, bullet grain and feet per second. However, go online to Nikon and use the Spot On application, you can turn those circles into your own custom BDC values, as well as darn near every other scope on the market. Spot On is a ballistics program that can give you holdovers for any rifle or shotgun load you choose, windage, long range holds, wind holds, etc....
The Nikon BDC reticles are pretty awesome, if used correctly.
The Nikon BDC reticles are pretty awesome, if used correctly.
There's a Nikon BDC scope on sale at a Scheels store for $99.00.
The 300 yard zero is really just an experiment at this point. I'm mainly seeing deer at the 100 to 200 yard distances so I'm just zeroing my main hunting rifles at 100 yards for now.
- May 5, 2010
- 6,588
I don't like BDC reticles. Your drop can be changed by ammo type, barrel length, temperature, and even a different batch of the same exact ammo. It won't match up.
If you're using it for long range you'll need to actually have a drop chart and know your adjustments.
If you're just using it for 100-200yards, any decent scope will do.
If you're using it for long range you'll need to actually have a drop chart and know your adjustments.
If you're just using it for 100-200yards, any decent scope will do.
You can get the new Nikon Mtac series with a standard reticle. I got a BDC600. Might wish at some point that I didn't. But, it's a real nice optic. I posted over in "optics ".
bman940
Bart, Nikon Pro Staff
I tell everyone, even those getting cal. specific scopes to dial in the round using Nikon's Spot On Ballistic Program. It lets you enter all of your shooting data and get the corresponding distances for each circle. You can even change the magnification and see how that changes the yardage. Easy and accurate. Nikon does have the new M and P-Tactical line of scope available in MOA and MARD options. So far they have been well received and are tough to find. Speaking of the BLACK FX100, I have one on my 6.5CM and love it. great longrange accuracy and a crisp and clear sight picture. Can't go wrong there.
Major03
Ultimate Member
What's your budget and what is the goal for the Remington 770? Hunting or range?
photoracer
Competition Shooter
I used a BDC Burris MTAC 1-4x (and later 1.5-6x) on my 3-gun rifle and found that Wal-Mart Federal .223 shot spot on out to 400 yards on the scopes dots. I have never used any of the match grade 69/77g ammo I initially bought in a 3-gun match to this day. I also use a Vortex Viper Dead Hold BDC 6.5-20x44 on my 6.8 AR. I just have the little paper under my rear cap that gives me the actual ranges of the BDC dots with my ammo. I use conventional scopes on my bolt guns except for my Mossberg MVP in 5.56 which uses a Nikon BDC 4-12x similar to the OP (but the more expensive ATS Predator model).
I shot the 300 Win Mag and 7MM Rem Mag rifles today at 50, 100 and 200 yards. Even with the cheap scopes I was very accurate. I was 2 inches high at 100 and 200 with both rifles. Can't remember what the 50 yard results were. I think the 300 Win Mag may have been even flatter than that. I was blown away that I could hit the bulls-eye at 200 yards by aiming two inches low with the 300 Win Mag.
I'm going to use them for hunting although I enjoy shooting them at the range. I think if I really wanted to get bulls-eye accurate at 300 I'd have to get a long distance scope for them but maybe that'll be later.
Like I said before for now I just want to get an affordable scope for the .308 to use within 200 yards but I'll still experiment with zeroing even that rifle at 300 for the heck of it.
Major03
Ultimate Member
FWIW, given your objectives, my advice would be to get a variable power 3-9X used Leupold VX-2. It's not going to break the bank and it's got decent glass.
For hunting scopes, I like the idea of turrets that aren't meant to be adjusted once zeroed (although if you're at the range have it). 9X is PLENTY of magnification for 300 yds. Just as a point of reference, USMC snipers used a fixed 10x UNERTL scope for decades, and had no problem making shots at 3 x that distance. Some of those scopes are still on rifles today. Glass quality is FAR FAR more important than magnification at distance (and also for lower light - dusk / dawn hunting conditions).
To be honest, I think most people lose accuracy due to parralax when they crank up their 20X scopes and don't know how to take out the parralax. More magnification doesn't always translate into more precision.
Given that you're hunting with it and using flat shooting calibers, I recommend zeroing using a Maximum Point Blank Range (MPBR) method. See the thread on 300 yd zero for the discussion on that.
For hunting scopes, I like the idea of turrets that aren't meant to be adjusted once zeroed (although if you're at the range have it). 9X is PLENTY of magnification for 300 yds. Just as a point of reference, USMC snipers used a fixed 10x UNERTL scope for decades, and had no problem making shots at 3 x that distance. Some of those scopes are still on rifles today. Glass quality is FAR FAR more important than magnification at distance (and also for lower light - dusk / dawn hunting conditions).
To be honest, I think most people lose accuracy due to parralax when they crank up their 20X scopes and don't know how to take out the parralax. More magnification doesn't always translate into more precision.
Given that you're hunting with it and using flat shooting calibers, I recommend zeroing using a Maximum Point Blank Range (MPBR) method. See the thread on 300 yd zero for the discussion on that.
- May 5, 2010
- 6,588
FWIW I use a fixed 12x $299 SWFA for up to 1,000yards.
It works fine and I have no intentions of upgrading.
It works fine and I have no intentions of upgrading.
Major03
Ultimate Member
I really like the SWFA line of scopes too, I have both a fixed 10X and a 5-20X HD. For the money, they are VERY hard to beat in quality.
That said, given that the OP's stated objective is largely hunting I think that a lower magnification would serve him better.
That said, given that the OP's stated objective is largely hunting I think that a lower magnification would serve him better.
I have one, and it does this perfectly fine. The glass is nice and clear too. I have it on my AR-10, and have shot out to 600 with it (not using the BDC's, but adjusting elevation).
Have a Prostaff 5 3.5-14x 40mm on a Tikka T3 in -06. Its fine. Not as bright as I had hoped, but no scope ever is. Nikon is always pretty much what everyone says it is: Not the best but a lotta bang for the buck. This scope fits that description well and therefore fits my needs. I don't use all the BDC stuff. I'm not trying to reach out more than 200. If I were putting one on a 6.5 and using it for bench shooing, I'd probably want higher mag.
Like almost everything in shooting, I'm almost always the limiting factor..
Like almost everything in shooting, I'm almost always the limiting factor..
This!
With a Nikon 3-9 x 50 on my 8mm commercial FN Mauser, I used the app to find if I zero my favorite handload at 100 yards on 4x, then on 8x dot 1 is dead on at 196 yards and dot 2 is on at 286 yards. I settled on those, they serve me well out to 300 yards with no holdover for whitetails.
I have a 2-7 I just leave on 6. It's a .270 which doesn't require much holdover at 300 yards anyway.
bman940
Bart, Nikon Pro Staff
K-43, I'm not sure I follow your line of thinking above. Usually, if someone zero's at 100 yards on max magnification, then as they drop down in magnification the distance each BDC circle represents increases. What you describe above is just the opposite of what should happen unless I have made an error which the way today is going wouldn't be unusual.
Below is an example of data you can pull up utilizing Spot On.
Below is an example of data you can pull up utilizing Spot On.
bman940
Bart, Nikon Pro Staff
That is what I print out, laminate and punch a hole in to carry with me into the field. I often times look for magnification's that are closer to 100-yard increment, an example is 8X above. If you wonder how accurate it is, Chrono your load, measure your scope height and you will be pleasantly surprised. We have shot soda cans at 600+ yards and 4-inch jars of Tannerite at 600+ too. Big fun, but as with any program, the results are only as good as the data you enter.
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