80% Lower Availability / Recommendations

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  • 2nd=Good+Substantial

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 17, 2012
    1,623
    The Hereford Zone
    I'd like to do a couple of 80% lowers. I plan on using the 80% Arms Easy Jig. I could order everything directly from 80% Arms but I prefer to support local IPs whenever possible.

    I'm looking for black anodized, forged lowers and the Easy Jig with the extra cost steel bushings. Getting everything at one IP would be preferred but is not mandatory.


    For anyone who has done their own, are there any brands of lowers to focus on or to avoid?

    Thanks in advance for any feedback.
     

    Lloyd

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 20, 2012
    1,106
    FEMA Camp
    Sorry I can't help, but I will 'second the notion' of interest in supporting a industry partner with 80%'s in stock.
     

    Neutron

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 20, 2014
    1,532
    severna park
    You may want to get the router bit from 80%Arms. The long bit they recommend is hard to find locally. Also you may want to start with a polymer lower first. Just a thought.
     
    You may want to get the router bit from 80%Arms. The long bit they recommend is hard to find locally. Also you may want to start with a polymer lower first. Just a thought.

    The mill (or bit as you call it) is available on Amazon for around $20 from a company called Kodiak Cutting Tools part number B007BTPAZ8. I used it with an off the shelf craftsman router and had no issues. NEARLY all 80% lowers will fit into the easy jig from 80% arms. Maryland Quartermaster in Bel Air is where I bought my jig and I got the 80% from Arthur's Shooter's Supply in Berlin.

    I did do a Polymer 80 lower first from Polymer80.com. It comes with the jig and all the cutting tools and I was able to do that using a drill press and an X Y drill press vise.

    Both turned out good and I have now completed both rifles using them. I do recommend cutting oil when milling the aluminum lower. If keeps the mill and drill bits cool and helps to prevent chatter.

    I am now working on a polymer80.com pistol frame that will allow me to build either a Glock or S&W M&P in 9MM, 40S&W or .357 Sig pistol. Frame is $169 and available on their webpage or MIDWAYUSA...The frame is called the Spectre..
     

    tman

    Member
    Jan 28, 2013
    50
    Hi,

    We have sub.moa jig and anodized forged lower in stock.
    80% arms easy jig will arrive in about 2 weeks.

    Thanks.

    Bill
    Sports N Hobbies
    2440 Osprey Way Ste C
    Frederick, MD 21701
    Phone: 301-668-6288
    Email: sportsnhobbiesmd@gmail.com

    BUSINESS HOURS (EDT)
    Monday – Friday: 11a – 7p
    Saturday: 10a – 8p
    Sunday: 11a – 6p
     

    whistlersmother

    Peace through strength
    Jan 29, 2013
    8,948
    Fulton, MD
    I have gotten both the Tactical Machining 80% and the Andersen 80%.

    The Andersen required some additional milling on the rear shelf, even though Andersen "attempted" to mill it out.
    It was a few thousandths out and the upper wouldn't seat at all. Also, either the upper I have or the Andersen lower
    are slightly out of wack in terms of location of front takedown and rear takedown holes. I have to slightly push the upper
    forward to get the front takedown pin pushed through the hole.

    The Tactical Machining 80% just works. Rear shelf is good to go out of the box, takedown pin holes are good.
    Just sorry I got impatient with one and ... well .... it won't ever be a 100% lower.
     

    whistlersmother

    Peace through strength
    Jan 29, 2013
    8,948
    Fulton, MD
    Hi,

    We have sub.moa jig and anodized forged lower in stock.
    80% arms easy jig will arrive in about 2 weeks.

    Thanks.

    Bill
    Sports N Hobbies
    2440 Osprey Way Ste C
    Frederick, MD 21701
    Phone: 301-668-6288
    Email: sportsnhobbiesmd@gmail.com

    BUSINESS HOURS (EDT)
    Monday – Friday: 11a – 7p
    Saturday: 10a – 8p
    Sunday: 11a – 6p

    Can you tell us what company makes the 80% lowers?
     

    2nd=Good+Substantial

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 17, 2012
    1,623
    The Hereford Zone
    The mill (or bit as you call it) is available on Amazon for around $20 from a company called Kodiak Cutting Tools part number B007BTPAZ8. I used it with an off the shelf craftsman router and had no issues. NEARLY all 80% lowers will fit into the easy jig from 80% arms. Maryland Quartermaster in Bel Air is where I bought my jig and I got the 80% from Arthur's Shooter's Supply in Berlin.

    I did do a Polymer 80 lower first from Polymer80.com. It comes with the jig and all the cutting tools and I was able to do that using a drill press and an X Y drill press vise.

    Both turned out good and I have now completed both rifles using them. I do recommend cutting oil when milling the aluminum lower. If keeps the mill and drill bits cool and helps to prevent chatter.

    I am now working on a polymer80.com pistol frame that will allow me to build either a Glock or S&W M&P in 9MM, 40S&W or .357 Sig pistol. Frame is $169 and available on their webpage or MIDWAYUSA...The frame is called the Spectre..

    Thanks for the input. I figured I'd go slow but the cutting oil is a good idea.
     

    2nd=Good+Substantial

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 17, 2012
    1,623
    The Hereford Zone
    I have gotten both the Tactical Machining 80% and the Andersen 80%.

    The Andersen required some additional milling on the rear shelf, even though Andersen "attempted" to mill it out.
    It was a few thousandths out and the upper wouldn't seat at all. Also, either the upper I have or the Andersen lower
    are slightly out of wack in terms of location of front takedown and rear takedown holes. I have to slightly push the upper
    forward to get the front takedown pin pushed through the hole.

    The Tactical Machining 80% just works. Rear shelf is good to go out of the box, takedown pin holes are good.
    Just sorry I got impatient with one and ... well .... it won't ever be a 100% lower.

    Thanks for the info on Anderson and Tactical Machining. Just what I was looking for.
     

    Alphabrew

    Binary male Lesbian
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 27, 2013
    40,749
    Woodbine
    I love the Easy Jig. I've only used the Tactical Machining 80% lowers and they are great. They used to be $29 but I think prices have increased.

    Two areas to be careful about when milling: near the fire selector so you don't mill through the hole that the detent goes; and toward the front of the fire control pocket so you don't go through the wall into the cavity where the mag drop button is.


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    [/URL][/IMG]
     

    Alphabrew

    Binary male Lesbian
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 27, 2013
    40,749
    Woodbine
    Thanks for posting this OP. I haven't finished any lowers for awhile but looking at some of my old pics I think I might have to dust off my shoes and dance again...
     

    Alphabrew

    Binary male Lesbian
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 27, 2013
    40,749
    Woodbine
    Here's one that I made a mistake on, I went through the wall into where the mag release button is. The lower still works flawlessly despite the hole in the front of the fire control pocket.

    C90CBFDE-3DA0-4CF8-AF6E-E4D04D7587B6_zpsbqelfehc.png
    [/URL][/IMG]
     

    StickShaker

    Active Member
    Mar 3, 2016
    888
    Montgomery
    Do you still need jigs if you use a full size milling machine? I was in a gun shop the other day and they mentioned a recent change in a law where you have to engrave your name and I think serial # into the lower now??????????
     

    Alphabrew

    Binary male Lesbian
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 27, 2013
    40,749
    Woodbine
    Do you still need jigs if you use a full size milling machine? I was in a gun shop the other day and they mentioned a recent change in a law where you have to engrave your name and I think serial # into the lower now??????????

    Yes, you still need a jig on a full size milling machine to make sure you get the fire control pocket cut correctly and to hold the lower so you can place the jig in the vice. I guess if you are the Charlie Daniels of milling machines you can eyeball it and not use a jig, but a jig makes it a heck of a lot easier.

    It would not surprise me if the gravy train of non-serialized 80s ends one day :sad20:, but I have not heard of any recent law changes regarding 80% lowers.
     

    StickShaker

    Active Member
    Mar 3, 2016
    888
    Montgomery
    Yes, you still need a jig on a full size milling machine to make sure you get the fire control pocket cut correctly and to hold the lower so you can place the jig in the vice. I guess if you are the Charlie Daniels of milling machines you can eyeball it and not use a jig, but a jig makes it a heck of a lot easier.

    It would not surprise me if the gravy train of non-serialized 80s ends one day :sad20:, but I have not heard of any recent law changes regarding 80% lowers.

    Thanks for the info. A way to hold it properly would be a huge time saver. Yeah, the shop doesn't sell incomplete lowers and said there is no benefit now with the new law. :shrug:
     

    kalister1

    R.I.P.
    May 16, 2008
    4,814
    Pasadena Maryland
    Do you still need jigs if you use a full size milling machine? I was in a gun shop the other day and they mentioned a recent change in a law where you have to engrave your name and I think serial # into the lower now??????????

    2 Part answer:
    1: A Machinist can make it from block of metal with drawing.
    2: If you have to ask, YES you need the jig.
     

    Mark75H

    MD Wear&Carry Instructor
    Industry Partner
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 25, 2011
    17,174
    Outside the Gates
    Do you still need jigs if you use a full size milling machine? I was in a gun shop the other day and they mentioned a recent change in a law where you have to engrave your name and I think serial # into the lower now??????????

    Only if you are going to sell it (must apply and get # from ATF) ... or you live in Commifornia.
     

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