DZ
Ultimate Member
I have a Glock 21SF w/ 1913 rail.
I really wanted a Safariland holster with their ALS, but they only made one that fits the 21SF with Glock rail.
Found a 6377 for ~$30+s&h, so I said what the hell, I'll get it and see what I need to do to get it to work with the 1913 rail.
The mold itself fits perfectly and the ALS also works perfectly. The part that does not work with the 1913 is a hard plastic insert that appears to put tension on the underside of the frame.
Questions: Is this part meant to rotate up under the pressure of the trigger gaurd and press against the bottom of the rail? Is it part of the SLS system?
The holster seems to function ok without it, but I'm going to make a replacement part for it that will work with my pistol.
Red marking on tape shows where the rail hits the part:
The part is .....................^^^_________here_________^^^ as installed.
I really wanted a Safariland holster with their ALS, but they only made one that fits the 21SF with Glock rail.
Found a 6377 for ~$30+s&h, so I said what the hell, I'll get it and see what I need to do to get it to work with the 1913 rail.
The mold itself fits perfectly and the ALS also works perfectly. The part that does not work with the 1913 is a hard plastic insert that appears to put tension on the underside of the frame.
Questions: Is this part meant to rotate up under the pressure of the trigger gaurd and press against the bottom of the rail? Is it part of the SLS system?
The holster seems to function ok without it, but I'm going to make a replacement part for it that will work with my pistol.
Red marking on tape shows where the rail hits the part:
The part is .....................^^^_________here_________^^^ as installed.
I would wrap the bolt in HEAVY teflon or duct tape and take out the plastic piece all together. You just dont want the bare threads of the bolt exposed since it could possibly mess up the polymer frame.
