Looking for concrete estimate

gtodave · May 25, 2018

It will be an elevated slab, not slab on grade. Like a parking garage of sorts.

I need a ballpark number on this so I know if it is even do-able financially for me.

I've attached a side view for a better idea. The pad will be 26x52, and will have to be supported somehow. I figure it could have columns like in a parking garage.

My problem is that I don't know if this is going to cost $15k or $50k to complete, so I don't know if it is even viable. If anyone does this kind of work, I'd appreciate a very rough estimate, just so I have an idea what I'm up against.

bibitor · May 25, 2018

Considering the need for engineered drawings, form-work, expansion joints, and significant steel reinforcing, an elevated slab that size is going to cost a pretty penny. I'd say $40,000 on the (very) low end, but it could end-up being much more depending on access to the site and the time of year you need the work done.

Archeryrob · May 25, 2018

Why are you using concrete as a open span slab like that? Its the weakest way concrete is installed. Concrete works best in columns and uprights walls like you show. They do in commercial but use stressed steel cables and so on with lots of rebar.

Why would you not just install a beam and 14' joists for the house floor? I think you design is going to be way more expensive than the engineer to give a sheet of paper on the beam size for the county building permit. Plus the wood floor would be warmer to the feet if the garage is cold.

gtodave · May 25, 2018

bibitor said:
Considering the need for engineered drawings, form-work, expansion joints, and significant steel reinforcing, an elevated slab that size is going to cost a pretty penny. I'd say $40,000 on the (very) low end, but it could end-up being much more depending on access to the site and the time of year you need the work done.

Ok, thanks for that info. that puts it out of my price range, which would move me to plan C

Archeryrob said:
Why are you using concrete as a open span slab like that? Its the weakest way concrete is installed. Concrete works best in columns and uprights walls like you show. They do in commercial but use stressed steel cables and so on with lots of rebar.

Why would you not just install a beam and 14' joists for the house floor? I think you design is going to be way more expensive than the engineer to give a sheet of paper on the beam size for the county building permit. Plus the wood floor would be warmer to the feet if the garage is cold.

It's not a house, it's a garage. So I would need concrete floors. The design (columns, metal, etc) is what I don't know anything about. My rendering was more for an idea of the scope of work, rather than how the work will be done.

Archeryrob · May 25, 2018

Ok, saw the garage bays below and the slab above and figured that was the foot traffic area above. So you are putting cars above and below?

Notice in a parking garage and they have a 40' span and those beams are 2' deep. You are going to need something similar to do span 26' but not as deep. Or build each side to a beam in the center to reduce the beam depth over all, but only deal with the beam drop in one spot.

The problem is that I, you or most anyone here and the concrete guys to quote you are not qualified to design that either. They build it from a set of plans made by a mechanical engineer and the county is not going to approve the construction with out his stamp on those drawings. So you're going to need to pay a mechanical engineer before really quote it.

I'd venture Expensive! lots of time setting and tying rebar and placing forms and support structure to hold all that concrete in place while curing.

I might suggest working with something like this and having a local contractor build the walls with ledge for it. Then hire a crain operator to drop them in. They probably have a mechanical engineer on retainer like truss companies do. you just need to know the projected load for them to design the floor.

gtodave · May 25, 2018

Archeryrob said:
Ok, saw the garage bays below and the slab above and figured that was the foot traffic area above. So you are putting cars above and below?

Notice in a parking garage and they have a 40' span and those beams are 2' deep. You are going to need something similar to do span 26' but not as deep. Or build each side to a beam in the center to reduce the beam depth over all, but only deal with the beam drop in one spot.

The problem is that I, you or most anyone here and the concrete guys to quote you are not qualified to design that either. They build it from a set of plans made by a mechanical engineer and the county is not going to approve the construction with out his stamp on those drawings. So you're going to need to pay a mechanical engineer before really quote it.

I'd venture Expensive! lots of time setting and tying rebar and placing forms and support structure to hold all that concrete in place while curing.

I might suggest working with something like this and having a local contractor build the walls with ledge for it. Then hire a crain operator to drop them in. They probably have a mechanical engineer on retainer like truss companies do. you just need to know the projected load for them to design the floor.

Boats/skid loader underneath, but yeah, I need lots of places to park things

I figured I'd have to get an engineer to design it, and I know that price can vary (significantly).

Thanks for the pre-design tip! didn't know stuff like that existed. If I continue with this location, I'll investigate that.

This whole cockamamie idea stemmed from me trying to combine two buildings in to one, and potentially saving money. If I spend a little extra on the concrete, but saved overall over building two buildings, I'd still be ahead. Looks like that might not be the case though.

Originally I was going to put the garage elsewhere, and put a bank barn in this location. In that case, I would have easy to build wood floors on the second level here, since it would only be small tractors and garden equipment up there. But neither my wife nor I were quite happy with the other location for the garage (took up too much good real estate), so I had this bright idea.

I'll investigate the pre-formed stuff, but ultimately I think I'll be going with plan C, and finding another location for the garage.

RobSky · May 26, 2018

https://www.autostacker.com/

Not sure if one of these would help.

GTOGUNNER · May 27, 2018

I looked at a house once that had a 2 car garage top and bottom. It was poured on pans. ( The roofing metal with waves..) with a few I beams holding it up. No way it was expensive. The house was reasonably priced. Looked like a simple process.

Sent from the 3rd Rock

madmantrapper · May 28, 2018

GTOGUNNER said:
I looked at a house once that had a 2 car garage top and bottom. It was poured on pans. ( The roofing metal with waves..) with a few I beams holding it up. No way it was expensive. The house was reasonably priced. Looked like a simple process.

Sent from the 3rd Rock

Those pans are expensive themselves.

I've designed and built a few of these. I may be able to help you out with an estimate but there is no way I can do this kind of work anymore.

MaxVO2 · May 28, 2018

Down Zero said:
https://www.autostacker.com/

Not sure if one of these would help.

*****Those things are cool. One of my coworkers has a system like that in his home. Don’t know if it’s the same brand but it raises and lowers the car in about 30 seconds or so. He put the expensive sunny day with the flavor of the month girlfriend cars on top, and his daily drivers on the bottom. His system is wider and looks a lot more robust, but same principle.

It’s a great option if you can’t build a wider or longer garage.

Looking for concrete estimate

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