Redbean
Redbean
Okay, the all-Colt build may be a big problem. I just want quality stuff. I'm open to anything. And, I love black and OD Green color variations. Thanks, Red
I want an AR 15 Pistol
- Thread starter Redbean
- Start date
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I've built a good number of both Glocks and 1911's. Once you have all the parts you can complete a nice 80% Glock in an hour. To build an 80% 1911, that works 100% of the time, takes me weeks. This is because you have to hand fit (ie file) every part to fit the gun right, and then spend lots of time filing and sanding the frame and other parts in preparation for a final finish...Cerekote, chroming, blueing, etc. But the satisfaction you get when you shoot this 1911 that you made with your own hands makes all the work worth it.
Agree. Building and fitting a 1911 is a ton of fun.
- Jul 29, 2014
- 49,983
You can go by individual parts kits and all, but right now, complete kits are faster bet. Most parts kits are way back ordered or way over priced(FleaBay).
These guys have a good supply of kits on hand. I just ordered a G17 kit for a friend...
https://www.uspatriotarmory.com/
BTW, these complete glock kits are right in line with buying all the parts separately, cost wise.
Thank you fir this...been looking at the different parts and complete kits. Oy vey! I know what I'll be doing this fall/winter.
Edward78
Active Member
Like others have said, buy a lower receiver separate and make sure it’s registered as a other (not a pistol or rifle) then purchase whatever upper you want and you are 100% legal and good to go. What caliber are length barrel are you considering?
tailgunner
Active Member
I own 3 as of now, all 10.5" uppers I purchased from PSA. 556, 223 wylde and a 9mm. Just buy the lowers complete or finish them yourself. Top em off with either the sb3 or 4 arm brace.
1st AR Pistol
A couple points I didn't see mentioned.
a) Unless you have access to the proper tools, fixtures and a basic 'build'
knowledge, IMHO you are right to buy your first pistol.
b) Unless something has changed, MD legislation prohibits new SBR's. Very
difficult to travel out of state with them as well. Out of state residents
can't even get permission from the ATF to temporarily bring them into MD.
I tried and I'm in PA.
c) Make sure the pistol you do buy is under 26" and the length of pull is
=/<13.5" with the brace at full extension. There are LOP limiters you can
buy but I'm not sure they will allow the pistol to meet ATF's guidelines.
Some people will say the 13.5" LOP is just a guideline. Personally, I don't
want to be the test case. A length > 26" turns the weapon from a 'pistol'
to an 'other'. I can't speak on how that translates in MD.
d) The discussion on 5.56 vs 300 Blackout for short barrels will go on for
ever. Buy what you want or buy another Upper. Most will agree that
10.5" - 12.5 is the shortest Barrel length you want for the 5.56. The 11.5"
& 12.5" may not make the 26" length to be a titled as a pistol. I prefer an
8.5" or 10" Barrel for my Blackout.
e) And finally, do your research and select a Tier1 builder.
A couple points I didn't see mentioned.
a) Unless you have access to the proper tools, fixtures and a basic 'build'
knowledge, IMHO you are right to buy your first pistol.
b) Unless something has changed, MD legislation prohibits new SBR's. Very
difficult to travel out of state with them as well. Out of state residents
can't even get permission from the ATF to temporarily bring them into MD.
I tried and I'm in PA.
c) Make sure the pistol you do buy is under 26" and the length of pull is
=/<13.5" with the brace at full extension. There are LOP limiters you can
buy but I'm not sure they will allow the pistol to meet ATF's guidelines.
Some people will say the 13.5" LOP is just a guideline. Personally, I don't
want to be the test case. A length > 26" turns the weapon from a 'pistol'
to an 'other'. I can't speak on how that translates in MD.
d) The discussion on 5.56 vs 300 Blackout for short barrels will go on for
ever. Buy what you want or buy another Upper. Most will agree that
10.5" - 12.5 is the shortest Barrel length you want for the 5.56. The 11.5"
& 12.5" may not make the 26" length to be a titled as a pistol. I prefer an
8.5" or 10" Barrel for my Blackout.
e) And finally, do your research and select a Tier1 builder.
IX-3
Active Member
It's perfectly legal to build a SBR in Maryland as long as it's not based on a banned by name rifle. For example C39V2 AK pistols can not be built into SBR's because the C39V2 rifle is banned by name. A Draco AK pistol can be built into a SBR because there is no Draco rifle. Another disqualifier is length. It must be over 29" long from tip of barrel (or muzzle device if pinned and welded) to end of stock fully extended. That's what stops most people from being able to bring SBR's into Maryland. They are usually under 29" and therefore are not legal in Maryland so the ATF will deny to request to transport them into Maryland.
- Dec 27, 2012
- 30,187
Am I the only one who thinks an AR pistol is rather miserable to shoot? Mine is braced (in case I ever become handicapped 
) but even shouldering it the ergonomics are just awkward and uncomfortable.
) but even shouldering it the ergonomics are just awkward and uncomfortable.
Ammo Jon
Ultimate Member
- Mar 3, 2008
- 20,975
Am I the only one who thinks an AR pistol is rather miserable to shoot? Mine is braced (in case I ever become handicapped
Love all of mine. As a CCW weapon I’m comfortable that I’m carrying enough rounds.
Attachments
IX-3
Active Member
Am I the only one who thinks an AR pistol is rather miserable to shoot? Mine is braced (in case I ever become handicapped
No. I'm not a fan of it either. Mine are just braced until I can SBR all of them. I didn't want to do 16" rifles and then have to buy a new barrel when the stamps came back. My AK pistol is more uncomfortable to me but it unfortunately will have to continue to be while I live in Maryland.
alucard0822
For great Justice
Am I the only one who thinks an AR pistol is rather miserable to shoot? Mine is braced (in case I ever become handicapped
Much depends on the brace. The original SB M4 and Sig brace had a really short LOP and could shift around on the tube. The shockwave solved the LOP problem, but the shape was uncomfortable when "accidentally and occasionally"
shouldering. SB A3s were good as they use a standard carbine tube and are adjustable, SBA4s are the best IMO, just under a 13.5" LOP, comfy, great cheekweld and better than some actual stocks IMO. Of course when "accidentally and occasionally" shouldering. Feels great with a 9" handguard and short barrel under it. Of course it may be worth it to spend $200 to SBR a lower, but handguns don't need to follow MD's insane 29" OAL or notify the ATF that you are transporting it out of state. You may even be able to lawfully carry(or keep loaded in a vehicle) a braced "handgun" with a carry permit in many states where you can't do the same with a rifle or SBR.ralph.mclean
GOC (Grumpy Old Cop)
I started building rifles back in 2013, when Marylandistan started talking about severely restricting our gun rights. My first build was a 300 BLK rifle, I later built a 9mm rifle, using an magwell adapter. Worked great, for a WHILE. I eventually moved the magwell block ever so slightly, and consequently had feeding issues. I subsequently rebuilt the rifle around a dedicated 9mm AR lower that uses Colt mags. After all this, I started building AR pistols. Lots and lots of AR pistols.
I believe that my next build will be my 16th. Not all for myself, mind you. I have had several friends buy and register their own lowers (don't let an uninformed FFL tell you that you have to decide whether your stripped lower is going to be a pistol or a rifle, tell them you haven't decided, if they ask), and then have either built them out for them, or showed them how to do it. It is a GREAT way to learn more about how your AR works, and how to maintain it, plus, it has taught me a lot about gun parts, and finding the balance between good price and good function. The most expensive parts aren't always worth it. My favorite trigger costs about $80 bucks, not $259.
So, I'm saying all that to make this point: If you don't have the skills or the patience, buy something nice like a Saint, or maybe even look at the Sig MPX if you want 9mm. But if you are willing to learn, and have the time, build one yourself. I learned by watching YouTube videos over and over again. Have some fun with it. Experiment. it will teach you a lot.
Right now, I wouldn't recommend building a 300 AAC Blackout, because that ammo is EXTREMELY difficult to find. If you build a 5.56/.223, ammo is very expensive right now, but at least it IS available. I learned about Flash Cans/Deflectors because I built a 7" AR pistol. I built it with a standard birdcage and was NOT prepared for the huge muzzle blast two feet in front of my face. I would recommend a barrel length of 10 inches, WITH a flash forwarder/muzzle can. And DON'T put an aluminum gas block on an AR pistol, unless you like replacing parts all the time. Mine lasted less than 150 rounds. No trying to save weight there. If you might, someday, want to suppress your AR Pistol, and adjustable gas block is probably best.
Anyway, sorry for rambling on for so long. Send me a PM if you have any questions. I have loads of parts that I would recommend, and even more that I would NOT recommend.
Good luck, no matter what you decide.
benjaminmartin
Member
- Nov 4, 2018
- 20
For the love of god DO NOT try to build a 1911.
It takes weeks of hard work, elbow grease and precision filling.
I learned the hard way that in the 1911 world there is no such thing as "matching" parts, unless everything was manufactured in same plant (i.e "mil spec" does not mean fitting). But as you can imagine I didn't know this at the time, I saw "mil spec" and thought I was good to go. Wrong. My build took me a few months because of the delay of order parts. It was hell. I sunk way too much money than it was worth.
Even if you do manage to pull it off and make a functioning 1911, you will most likely be disappointed with the accuracy.
Here's a glimpse into some of the problems I was having
https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=796433 [see the accuracy]
https://www.reddit.com/r/gunsmithing/comments/6aact1/1911_barrelslide_fitting_question_accuracy/
The problem is that the accuracy of the 1911 is to an UNREASONABLE degree dependent on how well certain parts fit. And by fit I don't just mean "work" or cycle+move smoothly. I mean the degree of mm precision everything has. You can't do this all with your hand unless you got some real fancy tools (see Larry Vicker's 1911 series). However, even then not all of these parts are in your control, but dependent on the factory that manufactured them. Think about building a 1911 like building a puzzle. If there are certain pieces that are slightly smaller/bigger then the rest, then the completed puzzle may disappoint. As in you literally cannot hit the broad side of a barn from 25 yards and you get no joy from shooting it. I destroyed it.
Glock/AR on the other hand are modular and the lower can be easily constructed+ turned into a fully functioning and ACCURATE firearm
Last edited:
bigmancrisler
2A Preacher
We have had a lot of customers looking for AR pistols as well. I can definitely see both side of the buy vs. build argument. We started stocking PSA lowers and pistol build kits and people seem to like that option. No HQL required for the lower, it’s sold as a “receiver”, and we are always more than happy to help our customers put them together once they have their parts. Most of the time, once we help a customer through a build, they end up like the rest of us and build one after the other. It’s a lot of fun.
@ralph_mclean what is your favorite trigger for $80? I’m curious.
@ralph_mclean what is your favorite trigger for $80? I’m curious.
hmmm
end user error. just kidding.
For the love of god DO NOT try to build a 1911.
It takes weeks of hard work, elbow grease and precision filling.
I learned the hard way that in the 1911 world there is no such thing as "matching" parts, unless everything was manufactured in same plant (i.e "mil spec" does not mean fitting). But as you can imagine I didn't know this at the time, I saw "mil spec" and thought I was good to go. Wrong. My build took me a few months because of the delay of order parts. It was hell. I sunk way too much money than it was worth.
Even if you do manage to pull it off and make a functioning 1911, you will most likely be disappointed with the accuracy.
Here's a glimpse into some of the problems I was having
https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=796433 [see the accuracy]
https://www.reddit.com/r/gunsmithing/comments/6aact1/1911_barrelslide_fitting_question_accuracy/
The problem is that the accuracy of the 1911 is to an UNREASONABLE degree dependent on how well certain parts fit. And by fit I don't just mean "work" or cycle+move smoothly. I mean the degree of mm precision everything has. You can't do this all with your hand unless you got some real fancy tools (see Larry Vicker's 1911 series). However, even then not all of these parts are in your control, but dependent on the factory that manufactured them.
Glock/AR on the other hand are modular and the lower can be easily constructed+ turned into a fully functioning and ACCURATE firearm
end user error. just kidding.
Ralph was saying his favorite one was only $80. I’m a bit of a G fanboy but have found some pretty sweet alternatives from customers builds.
Like AmmoJon, I also love my little 7.5” barreled AR pistol for CCW. I am not a fan of folding braces, but it sure does help keep everything compact.
