Stealth Arms 80% 1911 No Mill Needed w/ Promo Code

kgpayne86 · Jul 27, 2015

Awesome. I got one of their anodized test frames a few months ago and was wondering when they would sell them anodized. Good idea with the tape. I would be to excited to even think about that.

pilotguy299 · Jul 28, 2015

WeaponsCollector said:
Just finished my second Stealth Arms 1911 and this time it was even easier than the first. Both times I was lucky and found high quality parts kits on ebay that basically dropped right in with very little fitting. Had the exact same problem and 10 minute fix with both guns too. The hammer didn't lock back with the slide so all I had to do was sandpaper and re-polish the sear. Now it seems to work fine and I still don't have a caliper or a drill press. Took 2 hours to fit and assemble all the parts on this new frame. Now I definitely need to get a drill press and a caliper before I start on the AR 15 build. I think.
The only markings on this entire gun is the "US" on the grips.....

Very nice. Well done!

Jaybeez · Jul 28, 2015

they have anodized frames now? should i melt my old ones down or cut them up with a band saw for being inferior?

WeaponsCollector · Jul 28, 2015

Jaybeez said:
they have anodized frames now? should i melt my old ones down or cut them up with a band saw for being inferior?

I can save you all that trouble, just give them to me and I'll properly dispose of them free of charge. :thumbsup:

pilotguy299 said:
Very nice. Well done!

Thanks! Thinking of building one more and only use high end custom parts.

kgpayne86 · Jul 28, 2015

I provide that service for free. So go ahead and send them over.

Jaybeez · Jul 28, 2015

follow up question.

is this the grip safety i want?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...ride-beavertail-grip-safety-1911-series-70-80

WeaponsCollector · Jul 28, 2015

Jaybeez said:
follow up question.

is this the grip safety i want?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...ride-beavertail-grip-safety-1911-series-70-80

It seems like you will have to modify your frame and/or the grip safety to make it fit while a milspec grip safety will drop right in. If you have the time, money, and patience to do it then go for it. Might get the same kind of grip safety for my next one.

pilotguy299 · Jul 28, 2015

Jaybeez said:
follow up question.

is this the grip safety i want?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...ride-beavertail-grip-safety-1911-series-70-80

Why not just get the grip safety from StealthArms? They have them at a decent price.

Jaybeez · Jul 28, 2015

pilotguy299 said:
Why not just get the grip safety from StealthArms? They have them at a decent price.

aluminum

jjones88 · Jul 28, 2015

WeaponsCollector said:
It seems like you will have to modify your frame and/or the grip safety to make it fit while a milspec grip safety will drop right in. If you have the time, money, and patience to do it then go for it. Might get the same kind of grip safety for my next one.

That's the grip safety that I've used on all 3 of my builds. You will need the Wilson safety jig. It took me probably 5 hours on my first one (took it super slow), but my last one was maybe 25 minutes to get it fit.

Note if you get the blued one, you'll need to re-blue it post fitting. When you blend the safety to the tang, you'll wear off that bluing.

jjones88 · Jul 28, 2015

Hmm quoted wrong person, my apologies should have quoted Jaybeez on the Wilson Combat grip safety.

Jaybeez · Jul 28, 2015

jjones88 said:
That's the grip safety that I've used on all 3 of my builds. You will need the Wilson safety jig. It took me probably 5 hours on my first one (took it super slow), but my last one was maybe 25 minutes to get it fit.

Note if you get the blued one, you'll need to re-blue it post fitting. When you blend the safety to the tang, you'll wear off that bluing.

want to lend me your jig? i've got two of the safeties incoming based on a recommendation from earlier in this thread

jjones88 · Jul 28, 2015

We should be able to work something out

Jaybeez · Jul 28, 2015

sweet.

is it something you can mail to me and i can send it back with some cash or paypal you?

pilotguy299 · Jul 28, 2015

Jaybeez said:
aluminum

Just like the frame. I have one and it seems ok.

Jaybeez · Jul 28, 2015

pilotguy299 said:
Just like the frame. I have one and it seems ok.

i dont know how i feel about the trigger bar block being aluminum, as thin as it is, the sear spring's contact, and keeping a finish on it.

maybe im over thinking it, but i'd rather have steel.

Magnumite · Jul 28, 2015

That Wilson is a compound radius. Actually the grip safety tail radius is offset down from the pin center. Something like a Smith and Alexander .220" or .250" is easier to fit since both the pin and tail center lines coincide.

Also you could go with the .250" first and if you don't like the fit (or boo-boo'd) you can go to the .220". There is a good bit of metal on them so you can blend to your liking.

I've never used an aluminum gs before but Caspian makes them so they must be reliable. More of that will be the fitter which effects it.

jjones88 · Jul 28, 2015

Jaybeez said:
sweet.

is it something you can mail to me and i can send it back with some cash or paypal you?

Pm me your address and I'll throw it in an envelope regular USPS its a tiny thing so it won't cost much. Probably will be Monday though before I can get it out? Just an FYI there isn't really any instructions to its usage. Attach and start filing when you get close you'll want to switch to Emory cloth to blend to your desire. Most people suggest lapping at the very end but I didnt, just spent lots of time with Emory cloth.

jjones88 · Jul 28, 2015

Magnumite said:
That Wilson is a compound radius. Actually the grip safety tail radius is offset down from the pin center. Something like a Smith and Alexander .220" or .250" is easier to fit since both the pin and tail center lines coincide.

Also you could go with the .250" first and if you don't like the fit (or boo-boo'd) you can go to the .220". There is a good bit of metal on them so you can blend to your liking.

I've never used an aluminum gs before but Caspian makes them so they must be reliable. More of that will be the fitter which effects it.

I looked at this and determined to stick to the .250". I think the .220" would work but each of my three frames were slightly different. Going overboard might get someone into trouble.

One frame definitely needed the .220" and required more fitting, the other two were closer to the .250"

The Wilson was ambitious for my first attempt but afterwards once I figured out the jig and got good at blending, I quite liked it.

Magnumite · Jul 28, 2015

I realize you are using a TM frame so I don't have any experience with those. The .220" suggestion was for an over fitted .250". Some frames such as Springfield Armory and some Caspian may require the .220" or the Wilson/Clark type because the top of the frame tangs won't coincide well with the top of the beavertail.

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