DaemonAssassin
Why should we Free BSD?
The blue Kool-Aid is tasty, isn't it?
What did you do at your reloading bench today?
- Thread starter ToolAA
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The blue Kool-Aid is tasty, isn't it?
iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
Pure soft lead noses for a 300 grain .45 Long Colt bullet. The noses shown are just to see if the process worked. Read on.....
Using the handy dandy dipper, pure the soft lead first. Then immediately pour in the remaining hard cast lead while the nose is still hot. The two portions will fuse together inside the mold. And will remain a solid mass. No separation.
The idea is to have the soft nose expand on impact to give a good wallop. And have the solid non-expandable base drive through the animal.
The soft lead dipper is a 9mm case. Black wire was used for the handle. Just fill it to the top and pour. Pretty damn cool.
Check out da pitchers.
Using the handy dandy dipper, pure the soft lead first. Then immediately pour in the remaining hard cast lead while the nose is still hot. The two portions will fuse together inside the mold. And will remain a solid mass. No separation.
The idea is to have the soft nose expand on impact to give a good wallop. And have the solid non-expandable base drive through the animal.
The soft lead dipper is a 9mm case. Black wire was used for the handle. Just fill it to the top and pour. Pretty damn cool.
Check out da pitchers.
Sharpeneddark
Ultimate Member
I loaded some 308 Win and 300 Blk. 100 rounds each. Loaded 100 rounds of 223.
I don't have a fancy progressive press, so I make them in 100 round batches when I have the time
I don't have a fancy progressive press, so I make them in 100 round batches when I have the time
iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
Single stage presses are surprisingly fast once you get into a rhythm.
Waiting for fridge delivery I busted out about 200 200gr flat points.
This is what seems to always happen to me eventually requiring me to let it cool and clean the lead off the top of the mold and the black flapper of my Lee mold. Anything I can do while molding periodically to stop this?
The screw does seem to get loose and I have to periodically tighten.
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This is what seems to always happen to me eventually requiring me to let it cool and clean the lead off the top of the mold and the black flapper of my Lee mold. Anything I can do while molding periodically to stop this?
The screw does seem to get loose and I have to periodically tighten.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
Keep that sprue plate snugged up and lightly lubricated.
Let the bullets cool for a bit (30 seconds or so) so you don't get lead smear when you whack the sprue plate to cut the sprue. If cutting the sprue feels like you're cutting something soft, your lead is still too hot. You want a solid kachunck sound with some resistance when you whack it. Possible out of context thread material...?
Lead smear build up will cause a gap. Then the gap gets filled with hot lead. Causing more lead smear. Causing a bigger gap. Damnable lead smear.
Are you getting divots/recesses in the backs of your bullets (too hot)? Or just a slight rise where the sprue got whacked (slightly cooled and perfect)?
Let the bullets cool for a bit (30 seconds or so) so you don't get lead smear when you whack the sprue plate to cut the sprue. If cutting the sprue feels like you're cutting something soft, your lead is still too hot. You want a solid kachunck sound with some resistance when you whack it. Possible out of context thread material...?
Lead smear build up will cause a gap. Then the gap gets filled with hot lead. Causing more lead smear. Causing a bigger gap. Damnable lead smear.
Are you getting divots/recesses in the backs of your bullets (too hot)? Or just a slight rise where the sprue got whacked (slightly cooled and perfect)?
Sharpeneddark
Ultimate Member
They can be, but sometimes the powder thrower decides it wants to take a break and overthrows a few times.
iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
I can't recommend the RCBS Uni-Flow measure enough.
That thing is amazingly smooth and accurate.
One thing you may be able to do... drill and tap a hole for a setscrew to secure and lock the sprue plate screw and prevent it from loosening...
As was mentioned, keep the sprue plate lubed and when you knock it, try to not knock it upward as you do, this can put some pressure on the sprue plate screw and cause it to loosen up more quickly. I go by the feel of the sprue plate, when it starts to get too easy to move, time to check that screw again.. lol
iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
One thing you may be able to do... drill and tap a hole for a setscrew to secure and lock the sprue plate screw and prevent it from loosening...
As was mentioned, keep the sprue plate lubed and when you knock it, try to not knock it upward as you do, this can put some pressure on the sprue plate screw and cause it to loosen up more quickly. I go by the feel of the sprue plate, when it starts to get too easy to move, time to check that screw again.. lol
YUP!
I knock mine downward too. So the plate is making good contact with mold blocks.
I have this model and ball powder seems to be +/- .1gr on average. Occasionally I get a +/- .3
However I was loading Pistol charges using longshot and I had big trouble keeping the light weight charges accurate. I was probably doing something wrong.
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StickShaker
Active Member
EWF
Member
Today was a sad day at the reloading press. My Dillon 550 finally crapped out at about 25 yrs old. So I've had to remove it from the strong mount and prep it for its return trip to Dillon. Sad day!
What do you lube with?
I put some yellow beeswax on the screw.
HOw do I need to clean the lead off the sprue plate and top of mold? Do I need to heat them up and dip into the pot of lead?
DaemonAssassin
Why should we Free BSD?
What went wrong with it?
EWF
Member
It was the the earlier model with the E clips on the linkage. Finally gave out making it run out of allignment. Called Dillon and as soon as I said E clips they said send it to us.
ToolAA, trying to (maybe) read between the lines in your post here, so I'll mention this just in the event.
IF you are someone who is usually loading for rifle, and IF you're typically using the large charge drum in the Uniflow measure?
You'll find significantly less pistol small charge weight fluctuation with the small Uniflow drum.
We'll that explains it. I didn't even know that there was a small uniflow drum until now. I ended up weighing almost every charge.
Thanks.
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