buellsfurn
Ultimate Member
just thought that would cool on j8064 oak stock.But that's easy for me to say sitting hear 3 to 4 hours away
Hooligan Traditions Kentucky Rifle DIY Project
- Thread starter j8064
- Start date
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CombatAK
Hooligan #12
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buellsfurn
Ultimate Member
I have a lot of extra wood from the tree this came from.
very nice, we recently inherited some black walnut furniture from my mother in law. The furniture was made from black walnut trees off of my wife's grandparents farm the farm has been sold but we have part of it.
j8064
Garrett Co Hooligan #1
Update 04/28/2018
I had no pipe dreams this kit would be a weekend project. But it's been fun a little bit at a time.
As I posted before, one of the first issues I ran into was the brass shim that is mounted between the two stock halves is too thin. The stock parts could not mate without leaving a gap. That's unacceptable. You'd think Traditions would have left enough material on the stock pieces to allow the shim to be fitted properly. Not so...
After searching for (and not finding) a local source for a piece of 1/8" thick brass I could shape to replace the factory shim I finally gave up and went to Plan B --> Making a shim from some of the black walnut CombatAK donated to the project.
To make a walnut shim I needed thin wafers from the walnut block and the right tools. My first step was to dig my old band saw out of mothballs. But I never had a rip fence for it and wasn't into paying $200 for one. So I jury-rigged a fence out of $3 worth of pine "craft wood" from Lowe's and a couple of C-clamps.
Cutting a walnut wafer to rough shape to match the brass shim wasn't hard, but it's a step to be very careful doing on a band saw. I kinda like having all my fingers!
After the rough cut of the new walnut shim I drilled position holes. With a lot of filing and sanding I now have one that fits good enough to use instead of the original brass shim.
My plan is to resin the stock halves together into a one-piece stock. A shiny brass shim would be nice, but I'd rather have a solid stock for this project. Next step is to mate the stock parts and seat and pin the barrel.
When this project is done and we finally get it to a Hooligan Shoot I'm thinking it won't be perfect, but it will be awesome...
Stay tuned...
I had no pipe dreams this kit would be a weekend project. But it's been fun a little bit at a time.
As I posted before, one of the first issues I ran into was the brass shim that is mounted between the two stock halves is too thin. The stock parts could not mate without leaving a gap. That's unacceptable. You'd think Traditions would have left enough material on the stock pieces to allow the shim to be fitted properly. Not so...
After searching for (and not finding) a local source for a piece of 1/8" thick brass I could shape to replace the factory shim I finally gave up and went to Plan B --> Making a shim from some of the black walnut CombatAK donated to the project.
To make a walnut shim I needed thin wafers from the walnut block and the right tools. My first step was to dig my old band saw out of mothballs. But I never had a rip fence for it and wasn't into paying $200 for one. So I jury-rigged a fence out of $3 worth of pine "craft wood" from Lowe's and a couple of C-clamps.
Cutting a walnut wafer to rough shape to match the brass shim wasn't hard, but it's a step to be very careful doing on a band saw. I kinda like having all my fingers!
After the rough cut of the new walnut shim I drilled position holes. With a lot of filing and sanding I now have one that fits good enough to use instead of the original brass shim.
My plan is to resin the stock halves together into a one-piece stock. A shiny brass shim would be nice, but I'd rather have a solid stock for this project. Next step is to mate the stock parts and seat and pin the barrel.
When this project is done and we finally get it to a Hooligan Shoot I'm thinking it won't be perfect, but it will be awesome...
Stay tuned...
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buellsfurn
Ultimate Member
awesome , years from now that rifle with a piece of combats black walnut has more history then the piece brass
CombatAK
Hooligan #12
Glad to have helped out a brother!
4570inMD
Western MD Hooligan #007
From what I've seen, your progress looks great. Keep up the good work; your patience is really paying off.
WatTyler
Ultimate Member
"It won't be perfect but it will be awesome" is my inspiring word of wisdom for today.
j8064
Garrett Co Hooligan #1
Last night I started sanding to better fit the seam into the stock halves. Next step is to resin the halves into a one piece stock. The fit of the mating surfaces isn't perfect, but it should be easy to fill the gaps with resin mixed with black walnut sanding dust.
Getting closer one step at a time...
Getting closer one step at a time...
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Last edited:
iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
Nice fix.
Those brass spacers are worthless.
Had to fashion a spacer for mine too.
Cherry.
Those brass spacers are worthless.
Had to fashion a spacer for mine too.
Cherry.
j8064
Garrett Co Hooligan #1
Update 05/01/2018
Since I can't pin the barrel and shape the stock until the spacer work is finished, the next step is to mate the stock halves permanently. Many folks who build these kits join the stock with just the pins. But that ain't my style. I want it solid!
First step to mate the stock halves is to have all your tools and parts staged so when you start you can be done in a few minutes.
Then you need to coat the barrel with a release agent where it will come into contact with the resin. You can use a lot of different things for that. I used some car wax because I had it on hand.
Next it's time to mix the resin. I used some Loctite 3400PSI Epoxy I had. There's better stuff, but for such a small area on a BP rifle that will work fine.
With the resin mixed, apply it to the parts only where you need it. Wipe off any excess. Once it sets where you don't want it you've created more work for yourself. In this situation I coated the pins and slid them into their mating holes on both stock pieces to make sure there was enough resin to bond, but not ooze out. Then I coated the mating surfaces of the stock halves and the walnut spacer before I assembled the parts. All the clamping I need here is the tang, nose cap and lock to hold the rifle together tightly while the resin cures.
To fill the tiny gaps in the walnut shim (I talked about them before) I mixed some walnut filings with the resin. That's easy to work into the tiny gaps. When everything is cured the connection will be sanded so everything will blend together.
So, after the rifle sits for about 24 hours, I should have a "one piece" stock to work with. Then I can move on to the next step...
Since I can't pin the barrel and shape the stock until the spacer work is finished, the next step is to mate the stock halves permanently. Many folks who build these kits join the stock with just the pins. But that ain't my style. I want it solid!
First step to mate the stock halves is to have all your tools and parts staged so when you start you can be done in a few minutes.
Then you need to coat the barrel with a release agent where it will come into contact with the resin. You can use a lot of different things for that. I used some car wax because I had it on hand.
Next it's time to mix the resin. I used some Loctite 3400PSI Epoxy I had. There's better stuff, but for such a small area on a BP rifle that will work fine.
With the resin mixed, apply it to the parts only where you need it. Wipe off any excess. Once it sets where you don't want it you've created more work for yourself. In this situation I coated the pins and slid them into their mating holes on both stock pieces to make sure there was enough resin to bond, but not ooze out. Then I coated the mating surfaces of the stock halves and the walnut spacer before I assembled the parts. All the clamping I need here is the tang, nose cap and lock to hold the rifle together tightly while the resin cures.
To fill the tiny gaps in the walnut shim (I talked about them before) I mixed some walnut filings with the resin. That's easy to work into the tiny gaps. When everything is cured the connection will be sanded so everything will blend together.
So, after the rifle sits for about 24 hours, I should have a "one piece" stock to work with. Then I can move on to the next step...
Attachments
CombatAK
Hooligan #12
Thanks for the play by play, I know I am going to need to reference this thread at a later date.
buellsfurn
Ultimate Member
Lookan goodSince I can't pin the barrel and shape the stock until the spacer work is finished, the next step is to mate the stock halves permanently. Many folks who build these kits join the stock with just the pins. But that ain't my style. I want it solid!
First step to mate the stock halves is to have all your tools and parts staged so when you start you can be done in a few minutes.
Then you need to coat the barrel with a release agent where it will come into contact with the resin. You can use a lot of different things for that. I used some car wax because I had it on hand.
Next it's time to mix the resin. I used some Loctite 3400PSI Epoxy I had. There's better stuff, but for such a small area on a BP rifle that will work fine.
With the resin mixed, apply it to the parts only where you need it. Wipe off any excess. Once it sets where you don't want it you've created more work for yourself. In this situation I coated the pins and slid them into their mating holes on both stock pieces to make sure there was enough resin to bond, but not ooze out. Then I coated the mating surfaces of the stock halves and the walnut spacer before I assembled the parts. All the clamping I need here is the tang, nose cap and lock to hold the rifle together tightly while the resin cures.
To fill the tiny gaps in the walnut shim (I talked about them before) I mixed some walnut filings with the resin. That's easy to work into the tiny gaps. When everything is cured the connection will be sanded so everything will blend together.
So, after the rifle sits for about 24 hours, I should have a "one piece" stock to work with. Then I can move on to the next step...
j8064
Garrett Co Hooligan #1
CombatAK
Hooligan #12
That was pretty simple. Now I have a solid one-piece stock to work with.
Soooooooo, do we get to shoot it Sunday?
j8064
Garrett Co Hooligan #1
Soooooooo, do we get to shoot it Sunday?
Still got a long way to go, my friend...
But I got most of the 1/8" overhang at the butt plate sanded off. Once that area is done I'll polish the brass with superfine emery cloth.
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This looks just like rifle my dad and I were building before he passed away. Got it shooting but just have to finish all of the wood work. Hopefully, once I finish up with college, I can’t dedicate some time to finishing his rifleThat was pretty simple. Now I have a solid one-piece stock to work with.
j8064
Garrett Co Hooligan #1
OK. I'm at a stopping point for today. Now it's time to think through some next steps and options.
The butt is pretty close to tapered into the butt plate. Lots of 100 grit sanding by hand to get it there! I'll finish the fitting with 220 grit and move to finer paper for final detail. Now on to the nose cap...
As you can see in the pics the forestock is way bigger at that junction. It needs fitting. Some options:
- Hardest: Taper the forestock sides from the walnut shim to the nose cap. That could be done, but that's a helluva lot of sanding for about 28" on both sides. Then there's blending the taper to the bottom so it looks good near the ramrod channel.
- Easier: Taper the last few inches of the forestock so it blends with the nose cap.
- Easiest: Bevel about 3/8" at the end of the forestock toward the nose cap and call it a day.
One more thing to think about is color. I have too many dark brown rifles. I'm thinking something on the lighter side with maybe a hint of red undertones. Final finish will likely be BLO - unless someone has a better idea...
Anyway I'm wide open to y'all's input. I haven't made any decisions yet...
The butt is pretty close to tapered into the butt plate. Lots of 100 grit sanding by hand to get it there! I'll finish the fitting with 220 grit and move to finer paper for final detail. Now on to the nose cap...
As you can see in the pics the forestock is way bigger at that junction. It needs fitting. Some options:
- Hardest: Taper the forestock sides from the walnut shim to the nose cap. That could be done, but that's a helluva lot of sanding for about 28" on both sides. Then there's blending the taper to the bottom so it looks good near the ramrod channel.
- Easier: Taper the last few inches of the forestock so it blends with the nose cap.
- Easiest: Bevel about 3/8" at the end of the forestock toward the nose cap and call it a day.
One more thing to think about is color. I have too many dark brown rifles. I'm thinking something on the lighter side with maybe a hint of red undertones. Final finish will likely be BLO - unless someone has a better idea...
Anyway I'm wide open to y'all's input. I haven't made any decisions yet...
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Bisleyfan44
Ultimate Member
What about rounding the very end of the forestock down to meet the nose cap, instead of a bevel?
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