Deal on Polymer80 compact.
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Fox123
Ultimate Member
In the 17 that spring is long (in the vertical) and pokes pretty far down in a grove/slot going down into the vertical portion of the trigger guard.
On this 19 it seems like it only sits in there loosely and kinda wedged itself when under tension. Is that correct or should it push down into a slot?
On this 19 it seems like it only sits in there loosely and kinda wedged itself when under tension. Is that correct or should it push down into a slot?
Fox123
Ultimate Member
Also looks like it bulges/bows up into the recoil spring channel just a little and can see light rub marks on the top of it from the recoil spring
BUFF7MM
☠Buff➐㎣☠
Ok so I was reading your post and I thought that I might have got the wrong kit but I checked my order history from Midway and I had purchased the G19 kit
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/954622/glock-frame-parts-kit-glock-19-9mm-luger
Well it seem that the spring was my culprit, maybe it was put in the kit by mistake
. I really didn't have anything to compare it to so I stripped the gun again and removed the slide stop and the spring, replaced the slide and it moved just like a factory Glock should. I snipped a small portion of the spring from the end that fits into the frame and it wasn't protruding into the spring channel anymore. Reassembled the build and now the slide moves effortlessly.Picture of how much spring I cut:
Attachments
...
Well it seem that the spring was my culprit, maybe it was put in the kit by mistake
Picture of how much spring I cut:
Glad you got it worked out. I have the same bend on my spring. The slide stop spring channel on mine was filled with plastic debris from filing. A few shakes, smacks and scrapes were needed to clean the plastic out of the channel. Then I inserted the spring and slide lock.
Edit: No need to mod the spring. A 3/32 punch will fully seat the original one.
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That is correct, it just kinda fits down into the cutout, doesn't really insert tightly, but when you put the slide stop in, it will stay in place.
Edited with original text below. Other folks report that a 3/32 punch and some force is all that is needed to fully seat the slide lock spring. (Ref. Replies below this one) Edit: I have replaced my modified spring with a factory new one using a 3/32 punch to fully seated it.
I also swapped out the extended mag release Midway sent with their kit for a standard (G287) mag catch release.
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Interesting... I'll pull out my 30 and compare it later. My spring does sit up just a bit where it bends coming up out of the receiver, but I don't think it's interfering, though I could be wrong, it does protrude into the action spring channel just a bit...
BUFF7MM
☠Buff➐㎣☠
I had used compressed air and a pick to clean out the slot before I had initially installed the spring so I was pretty sure it was cleaned out before the spring went in.
My spring was sitting up like it is in your picture before I snipped the small portion off of it, now it sits below the channel and seems to let the slide stop work better. Before when the slide would travel forward into battery the stop would move up and down, now it's doing what it was meant to do.Hmmm... you might be right.. after looking at my spring closely, I can see a little wear track down the center of it. It really doesn't interfere that you can feel, but I'll investigate further later on.. (yes, Midway P80 LPK)
sorry, sucky cell pic...
Fox123
Ultimate Member
I was experiencing the same thing with the stop moving when going back into battery (not incredibly smoothly) and could feel gritty almost, I think the grit feeling was the recoil spring riding the slide stop spring and each of the coils rubbing off the hump like in the photo above, the slide stop jumping as each coil slid off.
Ground the stop spring just until the short bend on the end, tried reinstalling, didn't have as much spring tension on the stop so bent it up a little more.
Now installed and no more gritty feeling, and no more moving of the stop when cycling.
Ground the stop spring just until the short bend on the end, tried reinstalling, didn't have as much spring tension on the stop so bent it up a little more.
Now installed and no more gritty feeling, and no more moving of the stop when cycling.
I had used compressed air and a pick to clean out the slot before I had initially installed the spring so I was pretty sure it was cleaned out before the spring went in.
My spring was sitting up like it is in your picture before I snipped the small portion off of it, now it sits below the channel and seems to let the slide stop work better. Before when the slide would travel forward into battery the stop would move up and down, now it's doing what it was meant to do.
I used a dental pick, too. The sppring from Midway is fine. Use a 3/32 punch and it will fully seat. My original thought on this was wrong (quoted below).
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Did a little research this morning... I have a G30, so I stripped out the spring and slide stop and compared it to the spring that came with the Midway kit. I even took the 30 spring and stuck it in the 19 slide... fit like a glove, but it is a shorter reach spring for the 30, so it won't function properly, but... it shows me where the difference was.
The spring that came with the LPK is marked 2317, which is the correct part number for the 19 spring, but it sure has a longer leg than the 30 spring where is fits down into the receiver, so... I measured both... the 30 spring was approx 0.200" from the bottom of that leg that fits into the frame, to the top of the horizontal section where it's bent. The 19 spring from Midway was about 0.260" long in that section, so I took the dremel and shortened it to close to 0.200", dropped it in and it fits like a champ now.
The two springs compared 19 and 30 and the after pic as compared to the one from yesterday with no spring mods..
The spring that came with the LPK is marked 2317, which is the correct part number for the 19 spring, but it sure has a longer leg than the 30 spring where is fits down into the receiver, so... I measured both... the 30 spring was approx 0.200" from the bottom of that leg that fits into the frame, to the top of the horizontal section where it's bent. The 19 spring from Midway was about 0.260" long in that section, so I took the dremel and shortened it to close to 0.200", dropped it in and it fits like a champ now.
The two springs compared 19 and 30 and the after pic as compared to the one from yesterday with no spring mods..
Attachments
One other possibility, and I didn't try this before I cut a little off the spring.... I was just talking with a buddy that has built a couple and he said he had issues and wound up taking a punch (like a 3/32" punch) and just jamming the spring down hard into the frame and it did, eventually seat all the way down, almost like the slot in the frame is a little tight and ya just need to force it a bit. His fit fine with the same LPK and no mods to the spring.
Next time I order some Glock parts, I'll order a factory spring 2317 and try that..
Next time I order some Glock parts, I'll order a factory spring 2317 and try that..
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
One other possibility, and I didn't try this before I cut a little off the spring.... I was just talking with a buddy that has built a couple and he said he had issues and wound up taking a punch (like a 3/32" punch) and just jamming the spring down hard into the frame and it did, eventually seat all the way down, almost like the slot in the frame is a little tight and ya just need to force it a bit. His fit fine with the same LPK and no mods to the spring.
Next time I order some Glock parts, I'll order a factory spring 2317 and try that..
I've been doing that with all the ones I've done/assisted with - no one told me to, just been doing it cause I felt the spring wasn't fully seated in the channel.
Huh, for once I'm ahead of the curve...
Now I'm curious. I used needle nose pliers to set the spring originally. I used a punch after I ground off the metal below the bend and I was able to seat it completely against the frame.
Was using the punch really all I needed to concentrate the pressure to seat the spring? I can see I'm going to have to pickup another spring to try this out again. (The answer is YES. I replaced the modded spring with a standard one.)
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swierczekml
Active Member
- Apr 19, 2011
- 112
I had a similar issue with spring seating and a punch (with a fair amount of pressure) was all I needed to seat it properly and avoid interference with the recoil spring. No cutting required.
Just take your time and go slow, you'll be fine, and if you do have any problems just post it here, chances are somebody has already encountered the same or a similar issue and will be glad to offer you some advice and assistance.
I ordered one this morning, should have it next week and I'll give it a try..
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