Form 1 $100 suppressor

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  • md_al

    Active Member
    Apr 25, 2014
    724
    Middle River
    Does the ATF specify a diameter for the hole in the endcap? Like if you have a Form1 approved for a .22 but opt to bore a hole large enough for .30cal to avoid baffle strikes?
     

    Weber

    USMC
    Oct 12, 2009
    1,329
    Elkton, MD
    Does the ATF specify a diameter for the hole in the endcap? Like if you have a Form1 approved for a .22 but opt to bore a hole large enough for .30cal to avoid baffle strikes?
    No they do not, but I would error on the side of common sense. If it is obvious that it has been over drilled for a caliber larger than what has been approved, you probably would get in trouble.

    It would only become an issue if something else caused them to be looking for something, but still not a good idea.
     

    eddiek2000

    Sweet Lemonade!!
    Feb 11, 2008
    5,773
    Southern Maryland - Chuck Co.
    I've had the Form 1's approved for awhile, but I've been debating the "style" of the suppressor body. Is there a preference between Aluminum vs Titanium vs Stainless? There seems to be some "neat" styles in AL, vs a plain round in the others.
     
    I've had the Form 1's approved for awhile, but I've been debating the "style" of the suppressor body. Is there a preference between Aluminum vs Titanium vs Stainless? There seems to be some "neat" styles in AL, vs a plain round in the others.

    Everything I have read says aluminum is only good for rimfires.
    Titanium is lightweight and tough as nails (actually a lot tougher).
     

    Weber

    USMC
    Oct 12, 2009
    1,329
    Elkton, MD
    I've had the Form 1's approved for awhile, but I've been debating the "style" of the suppressor body. Is there a preference between Aluminum vs Titanium vs Stainless? There seems to be some "neat" styles in AL, vs a plain round in the others.

    I use Ti in all my builds except for c cell for 22lr as it is way overkill.
     

    NattyBoh

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 29, 2010
    2,030
    Is there a shorter break that can be used or maybe something else? Maybe have him make a shorter one? I think it looks or would look a bit odd that long. I'd prefer something shorter
     

    Weber

    USMC
    Oct 12, 2009
    1,329
    Elkton, MD
    Is there a shorter break that can be used or maybe something else? Maybe have him make a shorter one? I think it looks or would look a bit odd that long. I'd prefer something shorter

    There are a few options, direct thread is the cheapest but you can also cut an SDTA brake, or use a griffin minimalist brake.
     

    NattyBoh

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 29, 2010
    2,030
    If going with Griffin, I'd just get SDTAs adapter for the Griffin,right? Then is cut a bit longer blast tube or whatever it's called ? The tube that is inside the body

    Does the brake have to be, or should it be at least a certain length? Is the minimalistic brake too short? Does the SDTA brake have a tendency to unthread or is it as solid as the Griffin? If I could cut the SDTA down, and it wouldn't affect accuracy ( can modded brakes mess with the guns accuracy? ) Then that would be the best option I think... Its cheaper.
     

    eddiek2000

    Sweet Lemonade!!
    Feb 11, 2008
    5,773
    Southern Maryland - Chuck Co.
    If going with Griffin, I'd just get SDTAs adapter for the Griffin,right? Then is cut a bit longer blast tube or whatever it's called ? The tube that is inside the body

    Does the brake have to be, or should it be at least a certain length? Is the minimalistic brake too short? Does the SDTA brake have a tendency to unthread or is it as solid as the Griffin? If I could cut the SDTA down, and it wouldn't affect accuracy ( can modded brakes mess with the guns accuracy? ) Then that would be the best option I think... Its cheaper.

    No answers here, but I have the same and other questions. I want to understand prior to purchasing anything.
     

    Weber

    USMC
    Oct 12, 2009
    1,329
    Elkton, MD
    If going with Griffin, I'd just get SDTAs adapter for the Griffin,right? Then is cut a bit longer blast tube or whatever it's called ? The tube that is inside the body

    Does the brake have to be, or should it be at least a certain length? Is the minimalistic brake too short? Does the SDTA brake have a tendency to unthread or is it as solid as the Griffin? If I could cut the SDTA down, and it wouldn't affect accuracy ( can modded brakes mess with the guns accuracy? ) Then that would be the best option I think... Its cheaper.

    The brake shouldn't effect accuracy, but a full size brake does extend the life of the can.

    Both styles will stay on just fine, but both can back off if not properly installed. Sometimes you have to play with it to get a feel for how tight to install, or use the challenge coin to aid in retention.

    As long as you keep the modded brake symmetrical it should be fine.
     
    Last edited:

    NattyBoh

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 29, 2010
    2,030
    Thanks. From reading a lot more online it seems that the freeze plug variants arent actually THAT good. Good yes but for say 100 or so more bucks, you can get CNC'd baffles. I also learned today that SDTA does NOT bore the ID of their tubes thus giving a variance of the ID and not allowing you to use the properly sized CNC'd baffle ( if you want to go that route ). I have to do a lot more reading now... Id rather buy once and cry once here.. I also priced the tool to preform the FP baffles and the cost of the baffles VS. the cost of the CNC'd baffles and the price isnt that much higher.

    I also read that these suppressors using freeze plugs do not have a repeatable POI and the shift can vary a bit. I want to use one on my bolt action for LR, and well that isnt going to work for me.
     

    Weber

    USMC
    Oct 12, 2009
    1,329
    Elkton, MD
    Thanks. From reading a lot more online it seems that the freeze plug variants arent actually THAT good. Good yes but for say 100 or so more bucks, you can get CNC'd baffles. I also learned today that SDTA does NOT bore the ID of their tubes thus giving a variance of the ID and not allowing you to use the properly sized CNC'd baffle ( if you want to go that route ). I have to do a lot more reading now... Id rather buy once and cry once here.. I also priced the tool to preform the FP baffles and the cost of the baffles VS. the cost of the CNC'd baffles and the price isnt that much higher.

    I also read that these suppressors using freeze plugs do not have a repeatable POI and the shift can vary a bit. I want to use one on my bolt action for LR, and well that isnt going to work for me.

    Most of that is not true, the guys that go with cups try to justify it by making claims. I have built cans with most products out there, and can tell you that there is not much difference between the different ones and there are pros and cons to all products.

    The biggest issue with using the Cnc cones is the total cost, you could buy a factory suppressor for close to same cost with a warranty and known performance. The purpose of the form 1 can was for an affordable option or alternative to for the hobbyist.

    Don't fall for the fan boy or marketing, but at the same time build whatever you want how you want. It's just great to see people exercising their right to do so.
     

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