Weber
USMC
7.5 or 9.5 D?
7.6", I run a 5.6" on most of my blackouts but the 7.6" performs better with supers.
7.5 or 9.5 D?
No they do not, but I would error on the side of common sense. If it is obvious that it has been over drilled for a caliber larger than what has been approved, you probably would get in trouble.Does the ATF specify a diameter for the hole in the endcap? Like if you have a Form1 approved for a .22 but opt to bore a hole large enough for .30cal to avoid baffle strikes?
Hopefully the safe hearing act will have a chance now.
Thanks for starting this thread.
I just submitted a Form 1 for a .30 can.
This was July 1 and I'm still waiting.
I've had the Form 1's approved for awhile, but I've been debating the "style" of the suppressor body. Is there a preference between Aluminum vs Titanium vs Stainless? There seems to be some "neat" styles in AL, vs a plain round in the others.
I've had the Form 1's approved for awhile, but I've been debating the "style" of the suppressor body. Is there a preference between Aluminum vs Titanium vs Stainless? There seems to be some "neat" styles in AL, vs a plain round in the others.
Any thoughts on this:
http://www.preppersdiscount.com/sto...stem._ _ _ _ _ _***ULTRA_HEAVY_DUTY***..html
I'd prefer to get the tube by itself, but not sure of the threads so I could use other manufactures endcaps or ID for fittings and spacer tube.
Is there a shorter break that can be used or maybe something else? Maybe have him make a shorter one? I think it looks or would look a bit odd that long. I'd prefer something shorter
If going with Griffin, I'd just get SDTAs adapter for the Griffin,right? Then is cut a bit longer blast tube or whatever it's called ? The tube that is inside the body
Does the brake have to be, or should it be at least a certain length? Is the minimalistic brake too short? Does the SDTA brake have a tendency to unthread or is it as solid as the Griffin? If I could cut the SDTA down, and it wouldn't affect accuracy ( can modded brakes mess with the guns accuracy? ) Then that would be the best option I think... Its cheaper.
If going with Griffin, I'd just get SDTAs adapter for the Griffin,right? Then is cut a bit longer blast tube or whatever it's called ? The tube that is inside the body
Does the brake have to be, or should it be at least a certain length? Is the minimalistic brake too short? Does the SDTA brake have a tendency to unthread or is it as solid as the Griffin? If I could cut the SDTA down, and it wouldn't affect accuracy ( can modded brakes mess with the guns accuracy? ) Then that would be the best option I think... Its cheaper.
Thanks. From reading a lot more online it seems that the freeze plug variants arent actually THAT good. Good yes but for say 100 or so more bucks, you can get CNC'd baffles. I also learned today that SDTA does NOT bore the ID of their tubes thus giving a variance of the ID and not allowing you to use the properly sized CNC'd baffle ( if you want to go that route ). I have to do a lot more reading now... Id rather buy once and cry once here.. I also priced the tool to preform the FP baffles and the cost of the baffles VS. the cost of the CNC'd baffles and the price isnt that much higher.
I also read that these suppressors using freeze plugs do not have a repeatable POI and the shift can vary a bit. I want to use one on my bolt action for LR, and well that isnt going to work for me.