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Old July 6th, 2018, 03:17 PM #11
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Take it apart and clean it. Inspect it for any baffle strikes. Even the slightest rub will cause the POI shift you are talking about. I would also try some different ammo and see if there is any difference. I would also set up and run a keyhole test to see if the bullets are tumbling. As stated already do not use a crush washer. If the suppressor is not locking up with the barrel use a peel washer to bridge the gap.
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Old July 11th, 2018, 01:30 PM #12
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I'm back, sometime life gets in the way of fun things.

I cleaned the suppressor, it was only mildly dirty. I inspected the baffles and they look fine. I took the stock off. The V-block was not loose. I removed that and I could not budge the barrel. It's been there for 25+ years and I did not put anti-sieze on the barrel shank.

I did not state the whole story in my first post, but I could not hit the paper. Took the suppressor off and I was 2" low. Adjusted the scope so I was dead on at 50 yds and put the suppressor back on. Nothing on paper. Aimed at the dirt back stop and caught a glimpse of dirt flying at the bottom of the scope. Aimed higher on the backstop, and it was hitting feet below where I was aiming. Took the suppressor off, back in the X, put it back on, still way low, took it off, back to the 10 ring.

The ammo was CCI HP, I will try different ammo.
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Old July 11th, 2018, 01:47 PM #13
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Ammo is not going to fix this. If your 10/22 will zero and shoot CCI MiniMags fine w/o the suppressor, then the suppressor is the problem, either the barrel thread or the suppressor itself.

A baffle strike with a .22 rimfire may not be especially obvious, whereas strikes with centerfire rifles tend to leave obvious damage like jacket shavings and grooves across the face of the baffles.

It may be an issue with thread fit (Class 1 A/B, Class 2 A/B, etc..). Is there any wobble when it's about 3/4 of the way threaded on?

Try a range rod to check alignment from the muzzle end or pull the barrel and sight through from the chamber end, looking for any overlap or even a slight change in reveal as you see the edge of the suppressor through the bore. The edges should all be even and concentric.
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Old July 11th, 2018, 02:06 PM #14
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Quote:
I did have my bull barrel threaded by a popular IP.
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Originally Posted by BigDaddy View Post
The V-block was not loose. I removed that and I could not budge the barrel. It's been there for 25+ years and I did not put anti-sieze on the barrel shank.
I can almost guarantee you are having baffle strikes. Maybe they're minor or not obvious, but if the IP didn't pull your barrel to thread it on a proper lathe, it's probably not as concentric as it needs to be. You can get away with that with a FH or a muzzle brake, but you're asking for trouble with a suppressor due to length.
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Old July 11th, 2018, 09:53 PM #15
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First thing to do is check suppressor alignment with an alignment rod.
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Old July 12th, 2018, 09:05 AM #16
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I just opened my .22 can after trying it for the first time on a friend's Ruger t/d. We had accuracy problems as well. When I pulled the monocore after some difficulty, it seemed to have a lot of debris inside. I didn't see any overt evidence of baffle or endcap strikes, but I wonder if some "shaving" might have occurred. I don't have a test bed of my own for this can(working on it though) yet, but as soon as I do, I will gauge the barrel. The can is a Radical Arms cheapo.$200+ the stamp.
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Old July 13th, 2018, 05:09 PM #17
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The Spectre 22 mounts on conventional 1/2 X 28 (Class 3A) threads .400" in length. The thread spacer is to be used on threads .600" – .650". If threads are longer than .400" but shorter than .600", a 1/2 X 28 – 1/2 X 28 (corrected from 1/2x25 error) adapter will be needed. As stated already an alignment check would be helpful to ensure the threads are concentric to the bore. These are stainless steel baffles so if the bullet is rubbing the baffle it may be hard to tell as there may be little to no damage happening. Is the suppressor locking up to the shoulder on the threads? If the alignment is okay it is still possible for it to be an ammunition issue. I have seen some strange things happen with different types of ammunition and suppressors.

Last edited by RetiredArmyGuy; Yesterday at 06:59 AM. Reason: Corrected thread adapter error
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Old July 13th, 2018, 09:08 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RetiredArmyGuy View Post
The Spectre 22 mounts on conventional 1/2 X 28 (Class 3A) threads .400" in length. The thread spacer is to be used on threads .600" – .650". If threads are longer than .400" but shorter than .600", a 1/2 X 28 – 1/2 X 25 adapter will be needed.
I thought the thread spacer was a thread protector! The suppressor works fine with my S&W MP 22 compact.

Without going to the gun safe, I'm pretty sure the threads are longer than 0.4" So what exactly does the thread spacer do? The spectre seemed to tighten perfectly fine without it.

I tried Federal target, CCI HP and Win HP today. I fired each with and without the suppressor. Without, they were all a 1/2" group at 25 yrd. I discovered that with the sun, if I took my head away from the scope I could see the rounds go down range. I never saw that before.

At first the Fed seemed to be low and right 2'x2' The other brands were only low at 6 o'clock. I tried the Fed again it was now shooting at 6 o'clock without the right ward deviation. The suppressor seemed equally tight to me.

I do not have an alignment rod. I did manage to put a couple rounds on paper and they didn't look key holed to me.

The holes in the baffles are not round, but notched. There is probably a term for that, but does the orientation of the notches matter?
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hlqke1rL8O...0/P1030048.JPG

I will measure the thread length and get back to you. It would be nice if the thread spacer would be the simple solution.
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Old July 13th, 2018, 10:33 PM #19
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The spectre backcap has a ring located forward of the barrel threads in between the threads and the blast baffle. If the rifle has threads that are longer than .400” they will contact this ring prior to bottoming out on the shoulder of the barrel threads on the rifle causing the suppressor to lock up unevenly on the ring and not the shoulder which can bring the suppressor out of alignment with the barrel and cause the issues you are describing. Normal rimfire thread length in 1/2x28 is .400” while centerfire is .600”. If your threads are say .450” in length you may not be able to see the separation between the suppressor and the barrel shoulder and it will seem to lock up because the threads on the barrel are contacting the ring on the inside of the suppressor. Best thing to do as you said is to measure the length of the threads and see if you can use the spacer or there are other spacers that are thinner and less expensive than buying the adapter they want you to use.
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Old July 14th, 2018, 05:26 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outrider58 View Post
I just opened my .22 can after trying it for the first time on a friend's Ruger t/d. We had accuracy problems as well. When I pulled the monocore after some difficulty, it seemed to have a lot of debris inside. I didn't see any overt evidence of baffle or endcap strikes, but I wonder if some "shaving" might have occurred. I don't have a test bed of my own for this can(working on it though) yet, but as soon as I do, I will gauge the barrel. The can is a Radical Arms cheapo.$200+ the stamp.
If you want to use the TD again, even to gauge it, let me know.

I shot the TD at TMGN and It was hitting where I was aiming at 25 yards, with no issues.
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