Deal on Polymer80 compact.

turbogrimace · Mar 25, 2017

Sticky said:
Here is my extended after a little grinding, filing and smoothing out.. I can take more off, but I actually like it where it is right now, extended, but not over-extended.

In one of my carry holsters, a pic overall, a pic trying to show how much it sticks out, but it looks like more than it is and finally a pic of the mag release removed showing the square hole and how much meat I still have to work with.

Looks like mine has a longer hole that's closer to the end. I don't think I could take much off. I took a pic of it in the frame.

Sticky · Mar 25, 2017

Yea, you may be right. That is different than the one I got in the kit from Midway. It really doesn't leave much to take off.

Here is mine from the underside, installed..

BUFF7MM · Mar 25, 2017

I'm not real pleased with how mine is acting after assembly, pulling the slide to the rear was impossible at first but then when it finally moved rearward it would spit out the slide stop. Seems the lock spring isn't seating all the way down in the frame. Now the slide won't go forward unless you push it forward, hopefully it just needs loosen up as it wears some.

Sticky · Mar 26, 2017

Buff7mm said:
I'm not real pleased with how mine is acting after assembly, pulling the slide to the rear was impossible at first but then when it finally moved rearward it would spit out the slide stop. Seems the lock spring isn't seating all the way down in the frame. Now the slide won't go forward unless you push it forward, hopefully it just needs loosen up as it wears some.

Could be a couple of things going on there.. the rails may not be properly aligned, and did you install the slide stop properly? I have to go back and dig up a couple of pics elsewhere that may help with the slide stop, but you can take a straight metal ruler and lay it on top of the front rails, hold it down tight and see if they are properly aligned and parallel with the rear rails.

Here are a couple of pics of someone else that has issues that are similar... a buddy of mine had issues with his rear rails sitting too low on one of his builds as well, had to do some finagling to get them to line up correctly (he actually elongated the holes in the rear rail section to allow them to sit a little taller on the frame).

Fox123 · Mar 26, 2017

Those last pictures looks like the culprit is the front locking block/rails, not the rear.

Could be holes were not drilled correct locations. Trigger and locking block pin look high.

Rhino · Mar 26, 2017

Buff7mm said:
I'm not real pleased with how mine is acting after assembly, pulling the slide to the rear was impossible at first but then when it finally moved rearward it would spit out the slide stop. Seems the lock spring isn't seating all the way down in the frame. Now the slide won't go forward unless you push it forward, hopefully it just needs loosen up as it wears some.

That problem sounds a little excessive to just wear in with use. I tend to agree with sticky regarding alignment of the rails. What area of MD are you in? I'm near New Market if you want to take a look at mine and see if we can identify the problem.

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Shoobedoo · Mar 26, 2017

Buff7mm said:
I'm not real pleased with how mine is acting after assembly, pulling the slide to the rear was impossible at first but then when it finally moved rearward it would spit out the slide stop. Seems the lock spring isn't seating all the way down in the frame. Now the slide won't go forward unless you push it forward, hopefully it just needs loosen up as it wears some.

Something is clearly out of alignment, either the front or rear pin holes, or possibly both, and not to sound defeatist, but I don't really see any viable way of fixing it at this point. If I was in your shoes I think I'd get on the phone to Polymer80 and explain the situation to them, emphasizing that you did everything by the book, and something just isn't lining up right. I would ask them if you can return the frame for a replacement, and I see no reason they wouldn't oblige you, they seem to be pretty responsive and customer friendly when it comes to this kind of stuff.

Sticky · Mar 26, 2017

Slide lock issues... there is a proper orientation for the slide stop. There is a notch in it on one side, the other side is smooth. The slide lock needs to be installed so the notched face is facing rearward so it contacts the barrel lug, not frontwards...

Rhino · Mar 26, 2017

Sticky said:
Slide lock issues... there is a proper orientation for the slide stop. There is a notch in it on one side, the other side is smooth. The slide lock needs to be installed so the notched face is facing rearward so it contacts the barrel lug, not frontwards...

I made that mistake on my 17 build, but it didn't cause any problems other than keeping the slide from lining up perfectly with the front of the frame. Still went into battery and slide worked fine.

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Sticky · Mar 26, 2017

Shoobedoo said:
Something is clearly out of alignment, either the front or rear pin holes, or possibly both, and not to sound defeatist, but I don't really see any viable way of fixing it at this point. If I was in your shoes I think I'd get on the phone to Polymer80 and explain the situation to them, emphasizing that you did everything by the book, and something just isn't lining up right. I would ask them if you can return the frame for a replacement, and I see no reason they wouldn't oblige you, they seem to be pretty responsive and customer friendly when it comes to this kind of stuff.

I would agree with this course of action, they have been very responsive from what I've read with customers that have had issues...

Rhino · Mar 26, 2017

Sticky said:
I would agree with this course of action, they have been very responsive from what I've read with customers that have had issues...

It would still be important to identify the issue and potential cause, wouldn't want to repeat it on a subsequent build.

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Sticky · Mar 26, 2017

Fox123 said:
Those last pictures looks like the culprit is the front locking block/rails, not the rear.

Could be holes were not drilled correct locations. Trigger and locking block pin look high.

In his case, I am pretty sure the rear pin hole for the locking block is drilled too high, causing his misalignment issue. It's pretty easy to get some misalignment with a polymer jig. Never did like that part.. lol

Those pics are from a different build than my buddy's with a rear rail alignment problem. His issue was that the slide fit was really tight when he tried to slide it back over the rear rails. A little measuring showed him where his issues were and he fixed it, we think..

Sticky · Mar 26, 2017

Rhino said:
I made that mistake on my 17 build, but it didn't cause any problems other than keeping the slide from lining up perfectly with the front of the frame. Still went into battery and slide worked fine.

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I did too when I first finished and tested mine, it ran fine, but I picked up on it after the initial testing when inspecting everything. I know better..

pilotguy299 · Mar 26, 2017

Sticky said:
Could be a couple of things going on there.. the rails may not be properly aligned, and did you install the slide stop properly? I have to go back and dig up a couple of pics elsewhere that may help with the slide stop, but you can take a straight metal ruler and lay it on top of the front rails, hold it down tight and see if they are properly aligned and parallel with the rear rails.

Here are a couple of pics of someone else that has issues that are similar... a buddy of mine had issues with his rear rails sitting too low on one of his builds as well, had to do some finagling to get them to line up correctly (he actually elongated the holes in the rear rail section to allow them to sit a little taller on the frame).

the front locking block pin looks ok, but the rear one sits a bit higher than mine, and could explaing the tilt up as it goes towards the back of the gun

Sticky · Mar 26, 2017

pilotguy299 said:
the front locking block pin looks ok, but the rear one sits a bit higher than mine, and could explaing the tilt up as it goes towards the back of the gun

I agree.. I'm pretty sure that rear hole for the locking block should be below that chamfered edge on top of the frame, not 'intersecting' it..

edit - also, the locking block rail has an edge that should lay down against the frame top edge for it's whole length. If you look at the pic of the locking block on that build, you can see that edge sticking up a bit on the back.

Here is what mine looks like...

Shoobedoo · Mar 26, 2017

Sticky said:
I agree.. I'm pretty sure that rear hole for the locking block should be below that chamfered edge on top of the frame, not 'intersecting' it..

Well it should be pretty easy to check by way of comparison to other peoples frames that are working properly.

In my case the top surfaces of the front and rear rails are dead level with one another, and the slide moves as freely back and forth as it does on any factory made Glock that I own. The distance between the top surface of the rear rail and the center of the rear pin hole on mine measures precisely 1 and 3/16 inches. A misalignment here of as little as 1/32 of an inch could possibly throw things significantly out of whack. If the rear pin hole on the front block is too high that would mess things up as well, possibly it's a bit of both, only some precise measurements will tell for sure but I agree that the rear hole on the front block looks to be drilled a tiny bit too high.

I agree that the plastic jig is potentially the weak link in this whole process, I know they tell you to drill it upright in a vice with a hand drill, that's fine, but if you've got your drill canted up/down or off to one side or another I don't think you can rely on the plastic jig to keep the hole location precise enough to prevent a problem like we are seeing in this case.

BUFF7MM · Mar 26, 2017

My slide stop was/is installed correctly and I'm leaning towards improper rail alignment, but I only get about 20 at home a week so it will have to wait until I get more time to deal with it.

Shoobedoo · Mar 26, 2017

Buff7mm said:
My slide stop was/is installed correctly and I'm leaning towards improper rail alignment, but I only get about 20 at home a week so it will have to wait until I get more time to deal with it.

If I may make a suggestion, This issue got me thinking about something that was discussed previously... One pin or another being stubborn about going in to place after drilling the holes like they tell you. It seems one or two other people have had this issue to one extent or another, and in my case the trigger pin was being really stubborn about going in and I didn't want to force it by pounding the crap out of it. My solution was to disassemble it down to a bare frame, then put it back in the jig and vice, then I pushed the appropriate drill all the way thru the jig without it spinning, then I started drilling at a slow to medium speed while running the drill in and out a little, then I flipped the jig over and repeated the process from the other side, and that served to ream or "chase" the holes enough so that the pin went in easily after that.

I don't know if that would fix your issue in this case if the hole (or holes) are drilled significantly off center, but it might be worth a try because I don't think this problem is going to "wear in" over time, at least not without causing excessive wear on the rails and/or slide. If reaming the holes as described above doesn't work, no harm done, just call Poly80 and request a return.

j_h_smith · Mar 26, 2017

Just got this email. Delta Team Tactical has Glock 19/23 polymer80 lowers on sale for $150.

https://www.deltateamtactical.com/G...0C-for-Gen-3-3-pin-9mm-Glock-1923_p_5427.html

BUFF7MM · Mar 26, 2017

Shoobedoo said:
If I may make a suggestion, This issue got me thinking about something that was discussed previously... One pin or another being stubborn about going in to place after drilling the holes like they tell you. It seems one or two other people have had this issue to one extent or another, and in my case the trigger pin was being really stubborn about going in and I didn't want to force it by pounding the crap out of it. My solution was to disassemble it down to a bare frame, then put it back in the jig and vice, then I pushed the appropriate drill all the way thru the jig without it spinning, then I started drilling at a slow to medium speed while running the drill in and out a little, then I flipped the jig over and repeated the process from the other side, and that served to ream or "chase" the holes enough so that the pin went in easily after that.

I don't know if that would fix your issue in this case if the hole (or holes) are drilled significantly off center, but it might be worth a try because I don't think this problem is going to "wear in" over time, at least not without causing excessive wear on the rails and/or slide. If reaming the holes as described above doesn't work, no harm done, just call Poly80 and request a return.

I'm beginning to think that it has something to do with the recoil spring, if I put the slide on with on barrel or recoil spring it seems to slide nicely.
When assembled if I pull the slide back about halfway and let go it goes perfect, if I pull all the way back and let go it stops about an inch from going into battery.
It seem to almost be under spring tension like the trigger spring is keeping it from going forward.

Deal on Polymer80 compact.

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